FPG install instructions
04-08-2006, 03:07 PM
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FPG install instructions
to anyone feeling helpful on a rainy Saturday (in NJ)...
I just got my Di Pricol Optix FPG and isolator and I expect the tapped banjo bolt to arrive soon. The gauge and isolator have no instructions at all and I can't find any online either. I've got a pretty good idea how to install them... but I was kind of hoping for a few hints, warnings, something.
Can someone give me a few hints and opinions? What size is the male thread on the back of the gauge? It didn't fit anything I have laying around... so I guess I'll need to bring it with me to get parts. It would be nice to know what I'm asking for. Same question for the female threads on the isolator (and banjo when I get it).
To get onto the tubing banjo to isolator and isolator to gauge can I use either a barbed fitting w/clamp or an insert and compression fitting? Which is preferred?
Should the isolator (Di Pricol 160160) be mounted horizontal, vertical or it doesn't matter? Is antifreeze the best choice? Any tricks for filling the tube? I assume you need to fill the isolator and gauge too?
Anything else to consider? I'm not really as dense as all these questions sound... I just don't do enough of this kind of work to recognize all the parts by just seeing the threads and I like to have instructions to read (usually after I've started to work and something doesn't look right
)
I just got my Di Pricol Optix FPG and isolator and I expect the tapped banjo bolt to arrive soon. The gauge and isolator have no instructions at all and I can't find any online either. I've got a pretty good idea how to install them... but I was kind of hoping for a few hints, warnings, something.
Can someone give me a few hints and opinions? What size is the male thread on the back of the gauge? It didn't fit anything I have laying around... so I guess I'll need to bring it with me to get parts. It would be nice to know what I'm asking for. Same question for the female threads on the isolator (and banjo when I get it).
To get onto the tubing banjo to isolator and isolator to gauge can I use either a barbed fitting w/clamp or an insert and compression fitting? Which is preferred?
Should the isolator (Di Pricol 160160) be mounted horizontal, vertical or it doesn't matter? Is antifreeze the best choice? Any tricks for filling the tube? I assume you need to fill the isolator and gauge too?
Anything else to consider? I'm not really as dense as all these questions sound... I just don't do enough of this kind of work to recognize all the parts by just seeing the threads and I like to have instructions to read (usually after I've started to work and something doesn't look right
)
04-09-2006, 12:45 PM
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If you go to this website they have all of the instructions for installs. Can't say enough good about these guys and their service.
http://www.dieselmanor.com/
http://www.dieselmanor.com/installsheets.asp
http://www.dieselmanor.com/
http://www.dieselmanor.com/installsheets.asp
04-13-2006, 02:50 PM
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an update...
From the plumbing aisle at Lowes it was pretty easy to figure out the fittings...
The banjo bolt is a 1/8" female pipe thread, the isolator is a 1/4" female pipe thread and the gauge is a 1/8" male pipe thread. For no real reason except it seems like people do it this way... I picked up an 1/8" female to 1/4" compression fitting for the gauge, going to 1/4" plastic tubing to a 1/4" male to 1/4" compression fitting for the isolator.
Then I picked up a 1/4" male to 1/4" hose barb going to 1/4" fuel line. Lowes only had needle valves with compression fittings.... so I need to find a needle valve with 1/8" pipe thread to get from the banjo, from there need to get to a 1/4" hose barb and I'm done plumbing...
The isolator has me stumped though... I will need to fashion a bracket of some kind to hold it as it has no holes, threads or anything else to use to secure it? I don't like the idea of letting the hoses hold it. I'll update this as I complete the project since some interest in my questions/experience was expressed.
I'm still open to advice and correction too.
From the plumbing aisle at Lowes it was pretty easy to figure out the fittings...
The banjo bolt is a 1/8" female pipe thread, the isolator is a 1/4" female pipe thread and the gauge is a 1/8" male pipe thread. For no real reason except it seems like people do it this way... I picked up an 1/8" female to 1/4" compression fitting for the gauge, going to 1/4" plastic tubing to a 1/4" male to 1/4" compression fitting for the isolator.
Then I picked up a 1/4" male to 1/4" hose barb going to 1/4" fuel line. Lowes only had needle valves with compression fittings.... so I need to find a needle valve with 1/8" pipe thread to get from the banjo, from there need to get to a 1/4" hose barb and I'm done plumbing...
The isolator has me stumped though... I will need to fashion a bracket of some kind to hold it as it has no holes, threads or anything else to use to secure it? I don't like the idea of letting the hoses hold it. I'll update this as I complete the project since some interest in my questions/experience was expressed.
I'm still open to advice and correction too.
04-13-2006, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by davelinde
an update...
The isolator has me stumped though... I will need to fashion a bracket of some kind to hold it as it has no holes, threads or anything else to use to secure it? I don't like the idea of letting the hoses hold it.
I'm still open to advice and correction too.
The isolator has me stumped though... I will need to fashion a bracket of some kind to hold it as it has no holes, threads or anything else to use to secure it? I don't like the idea of letting the hoses hold it.
I'm still open to advice and correction too.
04-14-2006, 04:36 AM
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HD Power, I like how you have that mounted. To me, that seems a little more out of the way than on the battery tray. The steel braided lines look tough too. Nice install!
04-14-2006, 08:56 AM
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so I need to find a needle valve with 1/8" pipe thread to get from the banjo, from there need to get to a 1/4" hose barb and I'm done plumbing...
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04-14-2006, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by TexasCTD
HD Power, I like how you have that mounted. To me, that seems a little more out of the way than on the battery tray. The steel braided lines look tough too. Nice install!
Take a look in my gallery as to my isolator which is mounted on the battery tray...personally I think it is more out of the way on the battery tray then on the firewall...but t each their own.
04-23-2006, 01:58 PM
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Here's my fpg update, pics in gallery.
I put the gauge in the dash where the cig lighter was. I plan to relocate the 12V plug somewhere since I use it for the GPS and kids DVD player (PC). For now one will do. It's not the most visible place, but I can see it OK. I wanted to keep my grab handle and I had no interest in moving my X-monitor.
The plumbing wasn't hard once I figure out what all the parts were. The tapped banjo bolt has a 1/8" FIP into which I put a 1/8"x1/8" MIP/FIP right angle, into that went a 1/8"x1/8" MIP/FIP needle valve and into that went a 1/8"MIPx1/4" hose barb. 1/4" fuel line on that to a 1/4" hose barb x 1/4" MIP into the isolator. Out of the isolator comes a 1/4" MIP x 1/4" tube compression fitting to 1/4" tube. The back of the gauge is 1/8" MIP x 1/4" tube compression.
... all plumbed. What a pain. That was three stores (Lowes, Pep Boys and Grainger) to get all the parts. The rarest was the 1/8" MIP/FIP needle valve.
My isolator came w/o a bracket so I made one using the cover for an electrical junction box. I bent it into an L that fit and punched out a hole for the isolator fittings to fit into. Then I tie wrapped the isolator to the bracket and used an existing bolt on the battery tray to secure it.
Filling the tube with antifreeze is a chore. I used a funnel to a tube that fit on the tube to start it. Lots of jiggling and tapping to get the air out. Then to top off the last inch or so I put a tie wrap in the tube and poured antifreeze down the tie wrap. I got good at it 'cause that stupid compression fitting leaked the first try so I got to do it twice. I have no luck with compression fittings.
So... my fuel pressure is 7psi at idle and 5 or 6 psi driving. At WOT and about 22psi boost I drop to 4 psi. I will be towing the FW next weekend... we will see.
My last questions... Which wire is the dimmed dash lights? I pulled that switch and didn't have the patience to probe all the wires just now - anyone got a hint for me? (I searched the forum but only found the suggestion for the ash tray light - which I don't have on my 04??)
And, the biggie - is 4psi at WOT hurting me? Is this the smoking gun cause of my two dead CP3's?
I put the gauge in the dash where the cig lighter was. I plan to relocate the 12V plug somewhere since I use it for the GPS and kids DVD player (PC). For now one will do. It's not the most visible place, but I can see it OK. I wanted to keep my grab handle and I had no interest in moving my X-monitor.
The plumbing wasn't hard once I figure out what all the parts were. The tapped banjo bolt has a 1/8" FIP into which I put a 1/8"x1/8" MIP/FIP right angle, into that went a 1/8"x1/8" MIP/FIP needle valve and into that went a 1/8"MIPx1/4" hose barb. 1/4" fuel line on that to a 1/4" hose barb x 1/4" MIP into the isolator. Out of the isolator comes a 1/4" MIP x 1/4" tube compression fitting to 1/4" tube. The back of the gauge is 1/8" MIP x 1/4" tube compression.
... all plumbed. What a pain. That was three stores (Lowes, Pep Boys and Grainger) to get all the parts. The rarest was the 1/8" MIP/FIP needle valve.
My isolator came w/o a bracket so I made one using the cover for an electrical junction box. I bent it into an L that fit and punched out a hole for the isolator fittings to fit into. Then I tie wrapped the isolator to the bracket and used an existing bolt on the battery tray to secure it.
Filling the tube with antifreeze is a chore. I used a funnel to a tube that fit on the tube to start it. Lots of jiggling and tapping to get the air out. Then to top off the last inch or so I put a tie wrap in the tube and poured antifreeze down the tie wrap. I got good at it 'cause that stupid compression fitting leaked the first try so I got to do it twice. I have no luck with compression fittings.
So... my fuel pressure is 7psi at idle and 5 or 6 psi driving. At WOT and about 22psi boost I drop to 4 psi. I will be towing the FW next weekend... we will see.
My last questions... Which wire is the dimmed dash lights? I pulled that switch and didn't have the patience to probe all the wires just now - anyone got a hint for me? (I searched the forum but only found the suggestion for the ash tray light - which I don't have on my 04??)
And, the biggie - is 4psi at WOT hurting me? Is this the smoking gun cause of my two dead CP3's?
05-09-2006, 01:10 PM
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Im gonna bring this back to the top.. I need to fill my isolator with antifreeze, but Im not exactly sure how to do it, and didn't see anything on Dieselmanor's site regarding it.. anyone got tips on it? I got the isolator from dieselmanor. If anyone is interested, here is a pic of how I mounted my isolator as well:
Scott
Scott
05-09-2006, 04:23 PM
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First of all if you can mount your isolator in a vertical position it will be easier. I mounted mine on the firewall by the hood hinge just to the right of the rubber grommet. You can use the ground wire hole for one of your mounting holes. Take the plastic tube off the top (gauge side) and with a small squeeze bottle of some sort fill the isolator as full as you can get it. Tap on it to be sure there are no air bubbles. Replace the plastic line loosely. If the plastic line is shorter than three feet you are done, tighten all fittings, if its longer remove the line from the back of the gauge, with the fitting on top of the isolator loose using the squeeze bottle fill the line from the gauge end until no air bubbles are coming from the top of the isolator immediately tighten the fitting on top of the isolator then the fitting on the gauge.
05-09-2006, 05:01 PM
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To fill the isolator it should sit 90 deg to the position you show, once the isolator is filled you can then fill the tubing. You could probably fill the isolator will it isn't bolted to the bracket yet and then mount it.
I went to the local pharmacy and purchased a single hypodermic needle, I then started sucking up anti-freeze and slowly injecting it into the open tubing at the gauge (tubing disconnected from the gauge obviously) I just got it as full as I could and called it good.
I went to the local pharmacy and purchased a single hypodermic needle, I then started sucking up anti-freeze and slowly injecting it into the open tubing at the gauge (tubing disconnected from the gauge obviously) I just got it as full as I could and called it good.
05-09-2006, 08:01 PM
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I put a tube over the tube and a funnel into that and filled the tube outside the truck. Then have someone hold their finger over one end while you feed it inside and attach it. Then I put a tie wrap into the tube and dripped antifreeze onto it to top off the tube and the isolater. I'd love to know if there's a better way... I just made it up as I went along.
05-09-2006, 08:04 PM
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sounds like its pretty straightforward.. I get a few funky readings, and I can only assume its because there is no form of glycol in the isolator....
Scott
Scott
05-11-2006, 09:35 AM
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Go to the local farm supply store and buy the seringe(spelling??) for a dollar or two and then you can fill it.....at least that's what I am going to try....got the boost gauge and bolt in quickly, now time for the fp guage. Good tips on mounting the isolator. Do you use straight antifreeze or 50/50 mix water and antifreeze?