Good stuff, and not at all a bad way to do things!

 

The Helix 2 cam in my truck really broadened the power...spool is sooner...and peak power is over a much longer RPM range. My truck stayed over 600 hp from 2800 to 3700 rpms. The springs are a necessity regardless of a cam...more torque down low and NO float up high. OEM stuff can float as soon as 3000 rpms. The fun really happens above 3000 rpms IMHO!

It is just tedious...but you could pull the head, bottom tap, install studs, change gasket, clean and check head, change springs, and install injectors in the first day. I would take the second day of the weekend to do the cam and button the top end of the engine back together.

It is really not hard at all...just a few tricks to the trade. I am not sure where my posts went either. Shane...call me if you need help...

Heck...maybe I should become a cash mechanic on the side. 1k and I will do everything! LOL

Getting the gear off and on the new cam is the hardest...and don't forget to mark the cam/crank gears so you don't have to count teeth...that takes forever.

Shane, when is your truck headed to Boise...ie Ultimate Transmission?

 

Getting the gear off and on the new cam is the hardest...and don't forget to mark the cam/crank gears so you don't have to count teeth...that takes forever.

The gears have factory marks on them,just line them back up.
One thing that hasn,t been mentioned,is when removing old cam, the gear wont clear the core support/cross member and unless you remove the fenders it doesn,t come out.So unless you can pull the gear in the truck (I couldn,t ,got a gear puller on it put quite a of force then stopped,didn,t want to damage gear or bang the cam around to much in bores), you have to cut clearance in cross member to get gear by.

 

Delivered it to Dave's hands on Friday!!! It' on the lift right now.... Thanks for the help Cq.....

 

Of course the gears have marks...but if the engine is not rotated tothe point the gears touch...the marks are really hard to use...since the crank goes around twice to the cam. Anyways...and ink pen to "index" the timing is the fastest safe bet!

Don't bother with the fender pulling...just cut tyhe top half above the hole of the center support...unbolt it and slide it over to center on the cam...a coupl eof taps from a rubber mallet will help and it will aloow the cam to slide right out. Make sure those dowels are in tight and rubber banded off up top to keep the tappets from falling into the pan! It is really not that had...just tedious.