Excellent reading... THank you....

 

Man does that bring back memories!!! Valve springs are a necessity with anything that fuels over 3300. KS

 

Just use 1/2" wooden dowels and tap them in with a mallet (or good push by hand),The bore in lifter is aprox .485 so this works good,and this is definetly not the hardest part of the job (the job isn,t hard just time consuming).
Three of the springs can easily be removed with one of those hand held compressors that grab the spring and push on retainer (sorry dont know proper name)but fourth spring sets in a cast pocket so this tool won,t work (at least didn,t for me).There is a tool that catches all four springs at once and can be used with head on,but you must remove injector since it bolts to head where injector goes.

 

If one was gona remove the head anyway, to check internals ands bottom tap for studs, wouldnt this make the installation of both the cam and springs quite easier?

 

I just bought 1/2" wooden dowels from Lowes, cut them all a couple inches longer then the push rods, put a taper on one end and cut a slot in the same end with a hack saw. Seems sort of scary the first time you do it, but once you press them in you have to pull real hard to take them out. Make sure you sand them smooth. For the valve springs Cummins sells a tool that does all four at the same time. The only springs that are difficult are 5 and 6 due to the cowl. It is easier to do the head, cam, springs and studs all at once. With the head off you have plenty of room for the dowels and bottom tapping the block is quick and easy. Tim

 

Tim what springs and cam are you running in your 06?? I know they are F1's but I was wondering what springs you chose?? and what stage cam??
thanks for your help

 

Both my trucks run a Helix 2 cam and sportsman springs. Nothing one off or special. Tim

 

when I look this job up it calls for about 12 hours of labor with my handshaker!!...thats a long time to be hanging out on top of the engine
it also suggest use 1/2" wood dowels just like everybody is saying...



my next question...
is there any draw back to changing springs, cam, and studs on a truck that still has the stock turbo!!!
I am all about building the internals first..since I am only running Smarty, exhaust and intake....is there any drawbacks to what I want to do??
thanks

 

whada awesome pics... Thanks man.. I know Cquestad had some really good posts and pics on this but I can't find them??? I will call him on monday...

Tim thanks for all your help.... I will definately be calling when the tear down happens... I am also going to do injectors at the same time while I am in there....

Shane

 

On the first part, yes it is!

As for your second question, it merely sets the stage for getting a bigger aftermarket charger! No issues honestly. Fuel mileage should go up, all else consistent.

 

cool thanks for the info.....so whats the word on the bolt on cam???? is it worth the extra $200 and is it needed???

 

If you are planning on using nitrous, the answer is yes. If not, then it's not really needed on 3rd gens. My understanding is that the CP3 is easier to drive than the P-pumps on the 12 valves, and unless you are really hammering it with the goofy gas, you will be okay with the press on version.

I talked this one up with Joefarmer several times, to include the next mods I have in the works, and the answer for me is still no.

 

thanks for your input.....I may get the bolt on??? but we will see..I want to build it and be done..no going back in cause I tried to save some cash on the first round..you know??I might be the only person I have ever seen with all the engine internals built up and no big mods on the outside.
it's not as exciting as twins or a sweet single..but it does give me the warm and fuzzy's

 

I run the scheid cam with sprtsman springs and really like it.

 

Hey your doing it right... Just don't do your clutch Last!!!!