Ever since I found out that I'm constantly pushing around 1 front tire I've been looking for something like this (Manual locking front hubs).

Someone here must already have this kit installed on a 3rd gen! What have been the results ?

Rick

 

This seems really expensive to me but what it allows is that you could weld the front diff and then you would have real manual front locking hubs when you need it. In winter I often dump it into 4x4 when the road quickly turns to crap and right out when it clears up. I'd only use the manual unlock in summer on pavement. ks

 

Runamuk

There is a group buy going on over at diesel garage.com http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ead.php?t=6296

I like what I see in this kit. The option of free spin the front hubs should free up some MPG. I like to back my big heavy trailer in low range, with the free spin hubs the drive train will run free when in low range. I have checked out the install info and it looks to be not that hard of an install. I am also looking for some people who have completed the project.

 

Before you blow that kind of money pull your front driveline and run around for a week. You'll be suprised at the lack of change in mileage. Although I do like the idea of 2 low for backing heavy loads.

Richard

 

I know about the group buy I want to see results before parting with my $$$

Thanks

Rick

 

Guys, Back up in 4 low...get'ter straight then go 4 low, I've backed my 38 foot trailer over 1/2 mile up a twisty road to trail to goat path. On pavement just be careful not to crank the wheels but even if you do it will still go...the fronts aren't lsd. ks

 

wow some poeple are crazy about gaining a realistic 1-2mpg's for $1500. my quick calculations show that....
Lets just say 2 mpg gain. You will need to put on roughly 150,000 miles before seeing any gain after paying off the $1500 bill. Don't see one in my future!!

 

Moving the truck on a hard non slip surface for long periods can be really bed for the transfer case.. I don't think these transfer cases have a differential in them like some of the ol full time ones.. If you look up the gear ratios of you axles you will find that the front and rear are not the same. the front tires actually turn faster than the rears, this keeps the truck straight when in 4 wheel drive. if you drive it on a surface where the front tires can't slip you can and will damage your transfer case.. It is not just a right left issue...

Gerry

 

Heres a couple of things to think about from my experince. I put manual hubs on my jeep a couple of years ago. never noticed much of a mpg improbment. the steering felt lighter but i noticed some down sides. first they needed a fair bit of maintenance. second since everything nolonger spun, everything seemed to wear out faster when used. I believe since the ujoints and what not stop spinning, they freeze up easier. third, its a real pain when you forget to lock em in bad weather and then need 4wd on the fly. i wouldnt consider it unless i was really wanting something that was just stronger for some really big tires or some hard offroad usage. MPG gain is just a self justification that doesnt really pan out from the cost to benefit to time ratio. well at least for me...
goodluck with whatever you decide.

 

I don't consider my 37's "really big tires" but I plan to get in on this group buy. Hub assemblies are total junk, that is my main reason for wanting to upgrade. The better mileage thing never even entered my mind and I could care less. It's all about having a functional truck with better parts. Any extra mileage I may or may not get is just a bonus, as well as getting rid of driveshaft wear and tire wear.

 

I'm sorry but my truck came with 4:10's at both ends. And I believe you have the same axles as I do so you would also have the same ratio unless you have the 3:73's. I don't believe that my front and rears are spinning at different rates I would be able to feel a physical binding in the driveline. Also we don't have full time transfer cases. When you pull from 2 into 4 you are activating the transfer case. So the front axle and driveshaft is just freewheeling when the tc is not engaged.

 

Ok, a couple of things:

Both front and rear diffs are within 1-2% of the rear diffs or you would be winding up the drive train to the point of destruction. Even tire pressure can cause a problem ls front or not.

2 mpg gain would be tremendous though I doubt it will happen it would pay for itself in 2-3 years. 22k per year = an extra 4400 miles = 10 tanks of fuel at 80.00 per tank.

Since the transfer case is the only disconnect you are continually pushing the added resistance of both front axels, gears and front driveline. This "free spin" disconnect system essentially gives you a floating front axel that is disconnected from the front axel, gears, and front driveline at the hub. Even with the added maintenance of repacking the bearings once a year, (over kill), the cost savings of replacing an axel, gears, and front drive shaft would far out weigh $1500.00.

And last but not least I've had several jeeps with front lockers that were virtually impossible to drive in 4x4 on dry pavement because of gear bind, but when you got to the slick stuff there was nothing better!

Rick

 

I think if you look it up you have 411 in the rear and 410 in the front.... at least that is what my Chevy had (we now have the same front and rear ends as the chevys had/have)

If the front and rear tires turn the same speed it makes the truck very dificult to to keep straight.. So they designed it so the front tires turn slightly faster than the rears to pull the front of the truck straight.

Some of the older Transfer Cases had an additional 4 wheel HI setting that would allow you to use 4x4 on dry non slip surfaces (my 99 durango had this) and in that case there was a differential in the transfercase..

The older chevy and dodge trucks (early 80's) had a full time transfer case. they had 4hi, 4 hi lock, 2 low and 4 low lock. to change these to freewheeling hubs you also had to midify the transfercase and disable the differential.

My 2005 Dodge does not have this differential in the transfercase. The front omponents and front drive shaft are simply spinning because the front hubs do not disconnect from the spinning tires but the front drive line is disconnected in the transfer cases..

Some of the earlier Dodge trucks had a vacume disconnect switch on the front differential that would unlock the drive line at the ring and pinion. In that case you only spun the front axle shafts from the wheels but not the front drive shaft.

Your owners manual also tells you not to use 4X4 on hard non slip surfaces because it may damage the driveline..

Gerry

 

Gerry,

My 05 3500 4x4 runs the same running gear.

And wouldn't you love to be able to disconnect that front axel at the hubs if it saved you mpg and wear ane tear on front driveline parts? I know I would!

I'm just courious to talk to someone who is running this set up.

Rick

 

Runamuk
You are correct, just the difference in tire size (front to back) due to tread depth, weight (flatness, front is heaver then the rear), etc will make the wheel travel a different distance per each rev. To answer your question, I have not found anyone who has done this upgrade either. I would love to here from anyone who has and if there is such a person, please reply. I have obtained the installation instructions (rev 2) and the install does not appear to be real bad if you have the tools. I can see, my lift will be real handy. Also, the new outer shafts appear to use shims to make up the difference with the OEM U joints. Maybe the off the shelf U joints (greaseable) can be worked into the existing axle ears since they appear to be okay for the new outer shafts (00-02, instruction states not to use the shims). This would be a great benefit in it's self. Anyway, I think the pros out weight the cons and this would be a great upgrade in the long run.