3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 5.9L ONLY!

Did FCA mod

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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 12:09 AM
  #1  
BigJohnston's Avatar
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Did FCA mod

Piece of cake. This was ten times easier than I thought it would be. I bought a torx bit set and a dremel tool. Less than a hour after poping the hood I was shuting it and going for a test drive.
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 07:13 AM
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Well????? Leave us hanging why don't you, how's she run?
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 08:58 AM
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Yeah, how does that thing idle?
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 09:00 AM
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Forgive my ignorance, what is the FCA mod.

Thanks,

Tim
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 09:06 AM
  #5  
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From: Baker, MT
FCA mod you ask? What your doing is cutting a bigger slit in the valve. Bigger slit = more fuel to the CP3, which in turn will allow bigger injectors. But there is more to go with that. BigJohnston fill us in!!
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 10:57 AM
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Sorry I didn't get you guys more info. I had originally wrote a very long post and somehow deleted half of it accidentally. I was to tired last night to rewrite the whole thing so just posted the short post. Anyways, here's the info.

After starting the truck it sounded like it might have a slight knock to it at idle but I drove around the block and now the truck sounds fine. Truck might actually run smoother now and I think I can feel a seat of the pants difference. I live in Tucson and it is very hard to find a place in my part of town where I can let er rip. I am either going to do the rest of the CP3 mod today or go play out of town where I can test the truck.

I bought a cordless dremel tool and bought 2 sizes of cutoff wheels. I made original score with thinner wheel and finished with the thicker wheel. I left at least half the triangle completely intact on both sides. I probably spent less than 5 minutes doing the grinding and 10 minutes polishing everything.

Getting the end cap off is scary and frustrating. The metal is pressed in place and is quite soft. As soon as you start prying you will see damage to the cap. I was able to use the grinder and clean up the damage I did to the end cap. BTW I used a torx bit and driver to pry the end cap off.

After you have done your grinding and cleaned everything up put in the slider, spring and end cap. You can just press the unit against something that wont dent like a tile floor or formicca counter and press end cap back in. It will pop into place and you are done with the mod. Just put back on truck with the same 3 torx head screws you removed earlier. The FCA screw holes will only line up one way so you can't screw up putting back on the truck.

Good Luck, Tom J.
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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A word of advice, I would strongly reccommend not reusing the torx bolts. Too many people (including myself) have stripped the heads out of them. I replaced mine with allen head bolts and anti-seized the heck out of them.
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 01:19 PM
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From: Applegate, CA
Originally Posted by 6-Pack
A word of advice, I would strongly reccommend not reusing the torx bolts. Too many people (including myself) have stripped the heads out of them. I replaced mine with allen head bolts and anti-seized the heck out of them.
The torx heads are a better design actually and stand up to more torque. the problem is sticking threads... the anti seize, as you already know, takes care of that.
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 03:48 PM
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From: Alice, texas
i did the fca and drilled out the inlet and outlit holes one of them was pretty much already.160 in diameter so i just cleaned it up a bit but the other needed to be drilled outwasnt to bad..........i keep saying i but i really didnt do it a mechanic here at work did it for me im to skeered to mess something up
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