Do you mean .062? I measured mine when it was new and I think it was ~.050. The big Luberfiners on my class 8s were ~ .125. Craig

 

Not saying you are wrong, but could you explain this further? And how exactly do you determine your oil flow is slowing down?

In my uneducated mind I would think that if your flow has slowed enough to visually notice, the filter isn't really doing anything because it is too plugged to have any affect. Maybe I'm thinking wrong about the way this works but I guess until I see proof or a better explanation on how these filters work I will continue to change mine every other oil change. I would love to go 3 or even 4 changes if I knew the filter was still actually doing something.

 

Sorry I did mean .062 I am going to have to preview my posts, Thats two errors in one thread on two posts for me. I agree with the fellow that posted right after you. He said exactly what I was trying to say. If the oil flow is reduced that much how much benefit are you getting out of the bypass filter.
Jim O

 

It looks like my 97 has the Amsoil bypass filter setup. If I use the bp100 bypass filter, which filter should I use for the full flow filter?

 

I would use the Fleeguard LF16035 stratapore filter. At least that is what I use.

What filter are you using on your 01?

 

On the 01 I'm using the Fleetguard LF3894 stratapore filter. I suspect it will work in my application for the full flow filter on the 97.

When I bought the 97, the previous owner had a bunch of new filters in the cab. They were a Napa 1795, Amsoil SDF26 and Amsoil BE100. On the truck: Mileguard MO8A & MO3976. The MO8a crosses to a Fram PH8A which has a anti-drain valve and relief valve set a 12 psi. The MO3976 crosses to Fleetguard LF3894 (and others).

 

Do you dump the oil out of the bypass during the normal oil change? Just curious, I run the 110 filter. I run the Donaldson ELF full flow filter.

 

first the filter media has varying size holes in it the larger holes has less restrictions to flow than the smaller ones. as the higher flow through the larger holes begin to fill up the oil is forced through smaller and smaller holes. the filter manufacture has a starting and end of life filter rating, it is not uncommon to see a 50% reduction in rating at end of life. example if the amsoil is a 2 micron absolute it will be 1 micron absolute at end of life. call wix and they will verify. we mount our filters on the frame to keep clutter out from under the hood, very easy to touch about every 5,000 miles. all you have to do is observe the oil flow one time to see a 3/16" flow to observe normal when flow is 1/8 change filter. if the oil is filtered many times per hour and it is cut to a third it is still filtered several times per hour but at a 1 micron rate. we use a better filter than the amsoil and make our own kits. our filters hold 3 quarts of oil, i drain the filter at oil change. you do not need to do that on the amsoil. longblackram use the eabp110 instead. it holds more dirt and last longer. the lf16035 or bandwin bt7349 for the stock.

 

I tracked down the differences between Fleetguard lf3894 and lf16035 at cumminsfiltration.com. The lf16035 has a fluted shell, the lf3894 is smooth.

Thanks for all the great info

 

Guess I will be sliding to the next few oil changes before I change my 110. Thanks Carl48

 

2005 model here. I have had the oilguard bypass filter in my truck since 48,000 miles and I'm at 138,000 miles now. I've averaged 22-25,000 miles between oil changes using amsoil. At 20,000 miles I send in a oil sample to horizon oil services and it tells me how good shape the oil is in.

At 90,000 miles I had a well respected diesel mechanic really go over my engine to make sure it was good. He was dodge's southeast diesel guy they called when they needed something fixed that the dealers couldn't handle. He said my engine was one of the cleanest he'd ever seen for 90,000 miles.

 

I've got my new Amsoil Bypass setup ready to install! Just waiting for warmer weather!

 

It all depends on your goals. The goal of a bypass filter is to remove particles and insoluables smaller than a standard filter can remove. The goal there is to use an extended drain interval. Mostly that's for commercial users because down time is lost money.

If you use a quality dino oil and a good filter, you can usually go 12K-14K between oil changes. The average consumer drives 12K miles a year. So for most non-commercial trucks, that's an oil change once a year.

If you use a true synthetic oil, you can probably increase that 18K-20K between changes. But a true synthetic is about $10 a qt. It's not cost effective.

A bypass filter is designed to remove small particles and insoluables - mostly soot. That's what turns the oil black so quickly. It should extend your drain intervals to 20-25K miles. If that's your goal, then it's worth the money and time.

But, if you're going to change your oil every 8K miles anyway, it's a complete waste of time and money. All it does is add weight, increases complexity, increases failure points, increases maintenance time and cost, and lightens your wallet.

 

For modded folks it makes good sense. The reason being they create more soot than a stock truck. So if you add the bypass you can run stock oil change intervals. Waste of money? I don't think so. Having a modded truck make it too 15,000 mile oil change interval is just not being very reasonable. 7500 to 8500 oil change intervals with a bypass on a modded truck just makes sense.

 

not so spooler, we mod our 04.5 - 07.5 trucks to remove the in cylinder egr for better mpg in doing so we end up at 425 hp and 900 ftlbs torque. in doing so it has 75 % less soot in the oil. on the 6.7 if you do the delets and use efi live or smarty you can get a 90%reduction in soot. the proper way to change oil with a bypass filter is to run it 10,000 miles and take a oil sample. blackstone or others can give you an idea at this point about how far you can go.