ARP's going in, have a question...
Thats what I thought Mike and thats what Im gonna do, but id just like to have these taps incase one of the holes feels alittle snug if ya know what I mean...
Mike Ill give ya a shout tomorrow dude!!!! Had a busy day today...
Mike Ill give ya a shout tomorrow dude!!!! Had a busy day today...
I just ordered a set of ARP's also. I was told to spray brake cleaner in the holes and blow out with air so bolt holes are nice and clean. Then use the ARP lube.
Good idea of having the proper size tap available if needed.
Good idea of having the proper size tap available if needed.
the tap is nice to have. when I did mine I cut at least one full thread per hole and it helped clean the gunk out of the hole before the studs went in. I have a long tap if you want to borrow it. Rob
Anyone have any tips to make things go easier??
The tap I used is an M12 x 1.75 x 6" tap I bought from J&L or MSC... can't remember which. You really should bottom tap before doing studs. It allows that stud to get down deeper into the block allowing better clamping force. When you do tap, you will see just how "soft" the block material seems to be. Make sure you suck out all the oil and metal from the bolt hole after tapping. I used my shop vac with a very thin plastic tubing taped on the end of the vac nozzle. Seemed to work well. When all was said and done, my studs and nuts were flush with each other after my third torque sequence EXCEPT for the studs that are outboard near the exhaust manifold. Those I was only able to tap very little because it was a much harder area and didn't want to break the tap. And remember you will have to clearance the rocker box at the back before you reinstall it or it will leak. The whole job is rather back breaking because of the angle you'll be working at. If you have a bad back, like I did, you might want to farm it out. I was hurting for DAYS after this job. Cylinders 4,5,and 6 are killers because you are working with the cowl directly above you.
Good luck
Good luck
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