Question for you ARP Stud experienced folks
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Question for you ARP Stud experienced folks
I'm finally getting around to putting in ARP studs and I'm confused about the wording on the little flyer that they stick in the box. It says……
"Torque values are based on 75% of the fasteners yield strength. Use the manufacturers torque sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers torque specs. Torque the nuts to 96ft lbs for ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT coated studs or torque to 122ft lbs if using 30wt motor oil lubricant."
Now, I was expecting to use the ARP Moly Lube and torque these suckers to 120ft lbs as everyone on the forum in the past has instructed. Moly lube or not, leaving them at 96ft lbs would be almost like stock…what's the point in that. Now I'm kind of worried about snapping one of these suckers off in the block. If I use the ARP lubricant and torque to 120ft lbs, sounds like it will be beyond the studs' capability to remain intact.
Any ideas?
"Torque values are based on 75% of the fasteners yield strength. Use the manufacturers torque sequence but do not use the engine manufacturers torque specs. Torque the nuts to 96ft lbs for ARP MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT coated studs or torque to 122ft lbs if using 30wt motor oil lubricant."
Now, I was expecting to use the ARP Moly Lube and torque these suckers to 120ft lbs as everyone on the forum in the past has instructed. Moly lube or not, leaving them at 96ft lbs would be almost like stock…what's the point in that. Now I'm kind of worried about snapping one of these suckers off in the block. If I use the ARP lubricant and torque to 120ft lbs, sounds like it will be beyond the studs' capability to remain intact.
Any ideas?
#2
the factory studs will stretch more under the stress of high boost/ high cylinder pressures than the arp studs, but they will not be as elastic(meaning they will not come back to their original length after so many stretch and release cycles which will result in reduced clamping over time) I would recommend following their instructions to the letter.
with a bolt, you are twisting the material as you torque. with a stud and nut, you are stretching the stud(to 75% of their yield strength) Yield is the point at where they have lost the ability to return to their original length. you are worried about breaking one in the block which is their breaking or tensile strength. tensile is considerably higher than yield.
with a bolt, you are twisting the material as you torque. with a stud and nut, you are stretching the stud(to 75% of their yield strength) Yield is the point at where they have lost the ability to return to their original length. you are worried about breaking one in the block which is their breaking or tensile strength. tensile is considerably higher than yield.
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96 ft/lbs w/ moly held (is holding) 76 psi daily for my ex-99. I retorqued to 100 ft/lbs fourteen months because 100 was an easier number to remember. If you search for a post by DonM, he gives the failure point of these fasteners (175+ IIRC)
brandon.
brandon.
#4
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In steps like this:
55, 85, 110. Drive easy for a few days. Keeping boost down.
After a bit of the driving above: loosen one stud at a time starting from the center and working around in a circular motion. This time go 55, 85, 110 and finally 122-125 ft lbs with the moly.
It is now ready for anything. I dont think the stock MLS gasket needs another re-torque. If you had the older style gasket and o-rings I would go back in there and do it again one more time before really applying the powewr.
Don~
55, 85, 110. Drive easy for a few days. Keeping boost down.
After a bit of the driving above: loosen one stud at a time starting from the center and working around in a circular motion. This time go 55, 85, 110 and finally 122-125 ft lbs with the moly.
It is now ready for anything. I dont think the stock MLS gasket needs another re-torque. If you had the older style gasket and o-rings I would go back in there and do it again one more time before really applying the powewr.
Don~
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Question number 2. They shorted me the ARP Moly Assembly Lube. I was hoping to start on this shortly and the only assembly lube I can find in town that contains moly is "Engine Assembly Lube with Moly and Graphite". It has "CRC" and "Sta-Lube" on the package for a manufacturer. NAPA has it. Better than standard oil no doubt but little worried about the graphite. Would this be OK to use?
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Originally posted by AK RAM
Question number 2. They shorted me the ARP Moly Assembly Lube. I was hoping to start on this shortly and the only assembly lube I can find in town that contains moly is "Engine Assembly Lube with Moly and Graphite". It has "CRC" and "Sta-Lube" on the package for a manufacturer. NAPA has it. Better than standard oil no doubt but little worried about the graphite. Would this be OK to use?
Question number 2. They shorted me the ARP Moly Assembly Lube. I was hoping to start on this shortly and the only assembly lube I can find in town that contains moly is "Engine Assembly Lube with Moly and Graphite". It has "CRC" and "Sta-Lube" on the package for a manufacturer. NAPA has it. Better than standard oil no doubt but little worried about the graphite. Would this be OK to use?
brandon.
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I stopped by NAPA again and read the fine print on the package and it is only 3% moly. I think I'll just put it off until I can get some of the ARP goo. That's probably the smartest thing to do. Thanks.
#13
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I've built a few engines in my day, not a professional at all, just a gear head. I'd be VERY concerned about tightening ARP fasteners above THEIR recommended specs. Just look at the difference in friction between using regular oil and there moly lube.!!!... 96lb/ft with their lube is EQUAL to 122lbs w/ straight oil. Going to 120+ lbs w/ their lube is way beyond the specs. Just my opinion..... I do agree to go back and re-torque after a few heat cycles to allow a better "seat" to occur. JMHO......
Tony
Tony
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Originally Posted by Jeff K
I should have a set anytime now also too