I put my bd race twins on yesterday, during the install i noticed my alternator cable had some tears in it so i went to the parts store and had them make me one. Ran fine but now my battery is getting hot and boiling over. Does the stock cable have a built in resistor or fuselink of some type? I've got to have a new battery now but i'm not putting one on it till i'm sure the cable isn't causing this.

 

Kind of a known problem of the cable between the two batteries giving that same issue. I'll look around and see if I can find the thread. But IIRC, it is the cable between the batteries.

 

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t=battery+blew

Here ya go!

 

it's not the cable between the batteries, it's the cable between the alternator and the passenger side battery that charges the batteries. I'm thinking it has a fuse link built in it but not 100% sure. The one i put on doesn't have a fuse link and i'm thinking this is causing it to over charge the battery.

 

No fuse link in the cable itself. The fuse is in the PDC ( fuse panel under the hood ) 150A fuse that bolts into the panel. Re-read the post. The cable between the batteries is either corroded, or making poor connection. That is the reason for the overcharging. The ECM reads battery voltage from the driver's side battery, but the passenger side battery is the one the alt. charges. That's why it is geting hot and overcharging. The alt. is trying to bring up the voltage of the battery on the driver's side, but can't because of either a connection, or corrosion issue.

 

I just cleaned the stock cable up and checked it out and it's printed on the side of it that it has a fuse link i'm assuming thats why it necks down to the 8 ga wire to limit the output to the battery. I guess what they are trying to call a fuse link is the short smaller ga wire. I'll check the connections and clean them up also. Thanks for the help

 

I've relocated the passenger side battery to the toolbox to make room for an air/water IC - is there any reason why I shouldn't connect the alternator output to the driver's side battery+ terminal? I'm planning to use 00 cable to the rear battery to reduce voltage drop.

 

I wouldn't see any issues with that XLR8R. In fact, it would eliminate the issue like the OP has, and many others have had too!

Blackjet- Never noticed the fuse link part on the cable. It may have a fuse link in it, but if it is actually overcharging, the fuse link has to be intact. Check voltages on both batteries when running. They should be within .1 or so of each other. If not......there lies the problem.

 

OK thanks...

 

I ran 4 gauge wire (welder cable) from the alternator to the driver side battery. It seems to work very well.

 

I used 1 ga wire from alternator to ds battery.

 

Erick you put the 2nd battery back in?

I thought you removed it to make room for the IC - where did it end up?

 

I did remove the battery. I ran 4 gauge welding wire to the driver side battery.

Hopefully this week I'll have some of the stuff put together.... then on to the dyno.

 

I have recently turned the key on a 04.5 Cummins conversion in a 2002 F250. At this point it is running one battery until I get a chance to fab up a dual battery tray. I ran a 4gauge wire from the alternator through a 150amp fusable link($80.00) to the drivers side battery...I am now getting a "battery voltage to high code"...I can not remember the code since my notes are out in the shop right now. But I was afraid of the battery over charging and boiling over like mentioned above. I checked the voltage and at the battery at idle and it reads 14.5 volts. So since the ECM has a limit for voltage for charging... So do you know what it would be so maybe I can limit the voltage if it is to high? I will go over my connections tomorrow but they are all new and clean.

Brent.

 

The code is P0517 and I have checked all my Alternator/Battery connetions and they appear to be making acceptable contact...Nice and tight, no movement.


Any suggestions?

Brent.