oldblu

i'm in need of a new lift pump very soon. Just wondering what everyone is using that is working for them, i know theres lots of guys running the airdog products, whats everyones' opinion on them? Figured i'd go with the new airdog 2, has anyone istalled on of them? If so is there still the problem with the fuel canister running empty on 1/4 tank? Also wondering the guys that go with the airdog do you get rid of the factory setup or just bypass it? dont know much bout them any help would be good.. Also is there anything else out there besides the air dog and fass thats reliable with filter and water seperator? thanks

Blueboy

I have the airdog 150, I have never had the 1/4 tank issue.
If I were going to do it again, I would go with a mechanical
pump.

Shank

I Have an AD150. Works great. I can run past the fuel light turning on. But that's got nothing to do with the pump. It's all about how you setup the fuel tank.

075point9

How loud are the airdogs?

Shank

I can hear it at idle with the radio off. Not at all driving down the road.

GASKICKER

I have the ad II. If you follow the instructions the module will give you no 1/4 tank issues.
As the the factory location....I just bypassed it.

DodgeChallenger

Blueboy - when you say the "mechanical pump" are you saying there is a mechanical pump available for up to 07 5.9CR engines? If so where does one buy them please?

Blueboy

Glacier Diesel Power
Opie
DTT
Check DTR store and see if they can get you one.

oldblu

blue boy- why do you say you would go with a mechanical? not happy with the airdog?
also for those of you with the airdog how do you wire it up? just like the factory one so when you hit the key it starts running? just wondering for when changing smarty tunes if it'd be running like the stock setup? thanks for the replies keep em coming

Blueboy

The airdog is fine, never had any problems with it.
The mechanical pump is a simple gear pump, belt
breaks, 5 min to change. Constant pressure.
The air dog stays on when tuning with smarty,

oldblu

thanks for the replies everyone...
one last question, wondering if most drop the tank or pull the bed? Is this just needed when doing the new fuel canister/removal of old pump? thanx

Blueboy

It,s take a 1/2 hour to pull bed, Fuel filler, bolts, unplug lights,
1 ground strap to cab on right side.

jthorpe

We can get you one I'm sure. Call 877-375-1956 and talk to Lary. He might be able to work out a special price for you on it.

oldblu

Ordered a whole raft of goods friday.. Some for me some for a friend.. Including 2 airdog II 165s :}
blueboy on pulling the bed where is the back set of bed bolts. Haven't looked a bunch but just gandering found the front ones but no back. Also on the bolts do they have threads on the bed crossmembers or welded nuts, or do you have to pull the plugs on the bed floor to get to nuts? cause mine are linexed over...
also what is everyone setting there regulators at for a common rail truck? thanks for all the input

1772johnboy

Your AD should be set at about 20psi and should require no adjustment unless you want more . I put one on a few weeks ago and it runs at 20psi. I will mention this experience I had with my startup. I had a fuel leak from the cover over the pump gears (geroter). The cover was tight so I removed it and found that there was no o-ring seal around the pump geroter. Although there were 2 seals at the ports below the pump geroter. I luckily had one in my O-ring stash as it is a very small cross section diameter for the O/D of the ring. You would not find one in a standard O-ring kit. The paperwork that came with my pump said that a seal kit was included with the parts in case you ever needed to remove the geroter cover and clean the gears. My pump kit did not have this seal kit in it. These pumps are supposed to be tested before packaging and this makes me wonder about their quality control. I would be interested in knowing if your kit instructions says the same and if the O-ring kit is in your parts. Also I removed my bed to do this install and there are 2 bolts at the back of the frame, one on each side and are accessed through a hole in the bottom of the frame rail. I think there are 3 bolts on each side. The nuts for them are attached to the bed by some method, not sure if they are bradded, resistance welded or what but I removed them with a 1/2" impact. There are no fasteners in the bed, all underneath. Just be sure all of your wiring is disconnected and the stuff Blueboy mentioned. I am sure if you have a means to lift your bed off that that is the easiest way to do this upgrade. I will also say that my pump so far has caused me no problems in about 1000mi. I often forget things too I'll have to admit.