Air Intake really needed??
#1
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Air Intake really needed??
I have been looking at getting a new air intake AFE stage 2. But I have looked on some past posts here and some guys think its not needed unless your really amping up the engine with a programmer or chip. I know 2 people who bought air intakes and they said they could not tell the diff in power or performance of the engine, just the sound of the turbo. I dont want to spend alot of money just for the sound of the turbo. Anyway looking for some comments on this issue.
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I have been looking at getting a new air intake AFE stage 2. But I have looked on some past posts here and some guys think its not needed unless your really amping up the engine with a programmer or chip. I know 2 people who bought air intakes and they said they could not tell the diff in power or performance of the engine, just the sound of the turbo. I dont want to spend alot of money just for the sound of the turbo. Anyway looking for some comments on this issue.
#4
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I have a Cool Hose along with the Amsoil Nanofiber drop in filter. I have also did the airbox mod thats similar to the PSM intake tube which sounds similar to Festus' box. Mine didn't cost as much as his though but I made up for it with the Cool Hose!
The Amsoil filter will flow about 800 cfm vs. the stock paper filters 600 cfm so its a decent first mod. Filtration is excellent with Amsoils nanofiber filters!
The Amsoil filter will flow about 800 cfm vs. the stock paper filters 600 cfm so its a decent first mod. Filtration is excellent with Amsoils nanofiber filters!
#5
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Swiss cheese the bottom of the stock air box with a paddle drill bit.
Put in a high flow drop in filter, like the Amsoil, or a WIX brand like I use.
Gut the insides of the stock 'torque tube'. Do a search for the procedure.
This will give you plenty of flow unless you really bomb the engine and costs zero.
Put in a high flow drop in filter, like the Amsoil, or a WIX brand like I use.
Gut the insides of the stock 'torque tube'. Do a search for the procedure.
This will give you plenty of flow unless you really bomb the engine and costs zero.
#7
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The only thing I have done is open up the front of my airbox and remove the rubber panel that covers the gap between the radiator and the headlight. I then dropped in an aftermarket filter. All the tubing, air direction fins, silencer ring, etc. are all still stock and in place. You can see the dyno numbers in my sig.
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The only thing I have done is open up the front of my airbox and remove the rubber panel that covers the gap between the radiator and the headlight. I then dropped in an aftermarket filter. All the tubing, air direction fins, silencer ring, etc. are all still stock and in place. You can see the dyno numbers in my sig.
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It's a K&N sold under the Summit name. It is an oiled filter and I'm not sure it is the best choice. I've actually been thinking about changing, but I'm hopefully doing twins in the spring and that will change everything anyway.
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Omaharam, I like that idea about opening up the front. Very smart, I'll check that out.
As for a 3-D unoiled air filter, check the one in my sig. It's physically the same as the K&N stock drop-in, but doesn't need oil.
As for a 3-D unoiled air filter, check the one in my sig. It's physically the same as the K&N stock drop-in, but doesn't need oil.
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#14
has anyone tried something like this?
http://store.airflo.com/psi-04.html
http://store.airflo.com/psi-04.html
#15
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+1, though I've made no effort to isolate the heat from it. A generic 4" inlet BHAF doesn't seem to be in favor these days. I wonder why.
(Though I love the thought of a Whistler, I think it'd be obnoxious on a long, heavy-pullin' trip.)
(Though I love the thought of a Whistler, I think it'd be obnoxious on a long, heavy-pullin' trip.)