Yes! Enquiring minds NEED to know!

 

Here is the update:

My Flux II injectors and Floor-It Stage 2 CP3 Pump will be in by Tuesday or Wednesday next week. After that I will have the following completed on the truck:
ATS Twin Turbo
ATS Intake
ATS Cams
ATS Fire Ring Head Gasket
ATS Head Stud Kit
FASS 150 GPH
Stage 2 CP3 from Floor-It Diesel
Flux II Injectors from F1 Diesel
Pac Brake
MBRP 5" Turbo Back Exhaust
SBC 3850 Twin Disc Clutch
TST "New Twins"
MP-8
Brakemsart Brake Controller
Autometer Gauges (EGT, Fuel, Boost)
3-Gauge A-Pillar Mount
Front Fender Flares
Dodge Smoked Head Lights
Recon Smoked Cab Lights
Recon Smoked Marker Lights
Depo Smoked Tail lights
Billet Black Shorty Antenna
Tail Gate Latch Flip-Kit
LED Fire & Ice Light bar
Black Powdercoat Bed Extender
American Force 22.5" Wheels w/ Sumitomo Tires
All Emblems Removed
All black grille
Black rear bumper
Entire truck wrapped in 3M film

Here is what needs to be done still:

Transfer Flow 50 or 70 Gallon Bed Tank
Transfer Flow 56 Gallon OEM replacement tank
HID Xenon High/Low Beams
Xenon Front Bumper
Kelderman Air Ride
Smarty Controller
Tinted Windows
Stereo System
Gullwing Tonneau Cover
Winch

So, after 3 months I will be nearly complete in my project vehicle.

I will keep you guys updated this week when & if I get it back!!

 

Now that's a plan! Keep us posted on how she runs when your complete.

 

D.Wiggs, I didn't see anything in the valve spring department. I wouldn't put a pacbrake on a truck with over 500hp without very strong springs and even then I'd be negative about it. I just replaced all my exhaust valves, seats, guides, and seals....all were shot due to pacbrake...get a set of cryo rotors and aggressive pads and if towing make sure your trailer brakes are sharp....IMHO....exhaust brakes are damaging to the exhaust valve train and tranny for little benefit....From real world experience. On a lightly modified truck with good valve springs they are ok. ks

 

a little off topic from the last post, but since i have alot of people repling to this thread who know alot more about turbos then i do, i will ask this.
if i were to run the sps66 turbo in a twin set up, woudl you run the stocker on top, or would you run the BD super b on top?
i have no idea which turbo does what,as far as how big the opening, how large the outlet, not even sure where to find that stuff out.but i have all three turbos, and would like to make my own twins set up, just not too sure which will work better for that set up using the 66 as the major HP getter.
i use this truck every day, i tow once in a while, and play at the track once in a while, just want something fast, with good to quik spool up.

 

Aren't you supposed to use the small turbo to feed the large one for minimum lag and max power

 

A 66mm charger isn't big enough to be used as the "big" charger in a twin set-up.

Top ("small") turbo in twins would include for ex: Stock, Super B, PS or SPS 62, PS 64, SPS 66. (Those are in order of Small to Large, the SPS 62 being my choice). Top turbo should have an inducer of 56-71mm (for you I would recommend 56-62mm. 71 is for us crazy people )

Bottom ("Big") turbo in twins would inclue for ex: HT3B, BHT3B, B2, S400, Big Brother, Phat . The bottom turbo should have an inducer of 8X-XXX depending on how crazy you are.

For you a set of SPS62(Top) and B2 or S400(Bottom) twins would rock.

With an SPS you get the higher flow enternal wastegate sutup and can get by without an external wastegate.

I don't recommend building a set of twins utilizing the stock turbo without using an external wastegate. (THere are varying oppinion on this, and this is just mine.)

Hit me up if you have any detailed questions.

Later,
Wes

p.s. This is just a brief rundown and is very loose in the details. I didn't want to get too technical on this. So, for the turbo gurus out there don't crucify this post. This is just a broad overview. There are many many more turbos out there that work great in twin set-ups. These are just most of the well known commercially available chargers out there.

 

Wes, Sounded good to me!!! ks

 

Best name ever for a big turbo!!

 

I had never heard anything about not being able to use a PacBrake on a modified truck. I thought that all the Pac Brake did was retard exhaust flow causing back pressure thereby slowing you down. Are you saying that there is no way to make it such that the PacBrake will work WITHOUT damaging internals? If there is, who makes the products strong enough to handle the job?

Thanks in advance,
D.Wiggs

 

Sorry to hi-jack. (just for a second)

Saw your Hummer on ebay, that sure is a sweet ride!!

 

D. Wiggs, 99.99% of the people with PacBrake or Jacobs Brake will never have their head off or make over 500hp. I have done both and all I can say is that with stock valve springs you in My Honest Opinion will be an unhappy camper. The exhaust brake is ok for stock power and volumes of exhaust at stock pressures. With twins volume you will definitely hammer the exhaust valves at higher rpm's such as when you drop into 3rd from 4th. At a minimum you need hot valve springs. If I were you I'd dump the pacbrake idea. They (the exhaust brake companies) wouldn't have a clue what the effect is on a high performance truck such as you are putting together because they have never tested it on one for a long time and then pulled the head. Your exhaust on the twins is 5" so I assume you were using a PXRB 5". For the strain the exhaust brake puts on your valvetrain and powertrain it just isn't worth it in my opinion...but hey opinions are like... ... everyone has one. All the best. ks

 

Thanks! I just sold it today!

 

Thanks for all of the info; I would have NEVER thought that could happen in a million years.

Is there anyway of beefing up the valvetrain and power train so that I could use the PacBrake?

Who sells Hot Springs? Also, how do the Twins increase engine RPM since I have not raised the governor ?

Thanks,
D.

 

Just to clarify KS is talking about the fact the as nyou shove more air into the engine, via the new twins and all that fuel, you need more air to leave the engine. When you use an exhaust brake it restricts the flow of exhaust gases by closing a butterly valve in the exhaust. When you close that valve your valve train ie springs and valve guides and seats have to deal with the extreme pressures created. The valve train on our engine is safe for exhaust brake use with stock air flow. I am not an engineer but I am a mechanic by trade, when you go from stock boost pressure of 30-32 psi and start pushing 60+ psi boost you have at least doubled the exhaust volume, also creating much higher pressures. I can guarantee that Pacbrake never tested their exhaust brake on an engine that has been modified to the extent that you have modded yours. Good luck, can't wait to hear your results.
Jason