I think I have a good idea of how to make 600hp. Im thinking it would cost from 10-13k.

1) all guages
2) Bully dog crazy larry
3) Tst early twins
4) 100hp diesel dynamics injectors
5) f.a.s.s pusher pump
6) Southbend or ats or dtt clutch
7) Banks high ram
8) Banks techni cooler
9) Relentless diesel Arctic air twins
10) 6" stacks

Thats about it but if im missing anything post what im missing

 

Looks to me you are missing the most important part!!! THE TRUCK!!!!

 

Lol yea i was thinkin a 2006 cummins 610 in 3500 dually six speed sport would be just fine with those mods lol

 

I think you'd be better off with some externally wastegated twins like Kendrick's. The drive pressure created by pushing 600hp worth of exhaust through a stock 9cm turbo has got to be almost enough to pop a headgasket.

Also, I think the F1 injectors are going to serve you better than DD injectors.
Keep in mind that the TST alone w/o injectors will drain the rail.

And don't forget a pressure box like an EZ or Ramifier.

Add in an Industrial Injection modified CP3 (or an ATS one at twice the price) and you'll get there, and be able to run injectors. (So it would seem, anyway)

 

Ditch the downloader...

Twins
TST Twins fueling
Ramifier fueling
Scotty Smart or another lp fuel upgrade
Clutch
Swap out muffler for something high flowing

That should be enough tuned right to make 600 hp.

There is no F1 injects yet for a 600 or newer...save your dough for those later. Then CP3 mods to get over 600.

 

Everything I've seen says those injectors will do more harm than good when used with higher levels on boxes. Just drains the rail sooner.

 

JCL, Kendricks Twins where's some info on these.
Yep, Get the truck, make at least one payment. Shop for the next set of tires then plan what bombs to do. ks

Oh yah, The banks cooler is only good to 50psi if I remember right... you aren't going to get 600 hp at less than 50psi unless your running iced air or spend a lot to get everything ported, etc. ks

 

Here: http://www.texasdieselworks.com/

The Techni-Cooler has a burst pressure of 150psi and a maximum sustained working pressure of 125psi. It should do just fine.

 

AK RAM, Where did you find the specs on the banks???? The after cooler I was looking at guaranteed 50% better flow the stock with 20% more cooling and a burst rating of 560 psi. ks

 

That's from Banks. Let me re-phrase that though. Looking back it was actually....

"Designed Burst Pressure 150psi"
"Designed Max Working Pressure 120psi"

That is a butt load of pressure. Keep in mind, those are "designed" values. Banks apparently only leak tests to 45psi to make sure the welds are good before shipping. Also, volume/density is much more important than pressure. Twins with 60 to 70 psi is all you will ever need unless you plan to make a living racing that rig.

 

You must be talking about the cool-twist with that 560psi? I was thinking about that one myself. "Jeff K" checked into it and apparently they don't come coated for the advertised price. It looks like it will be more expensive in the end after coating unless you just spray paint it yourself.

Once you get over the "Banks" stigma, the techni-cooler has a lot of plusses. The intercooler inlet and outlet is upgraded to 3.5" and upgrades all of your charged air tubing to 3.5", which should really help volume over the others that stick with the factory sized pipes/inlet/outlet. It also comes with the high ram (bling) if that interests you, which has a 3.5" inlet as well to match the piping. It is a good kit. Retail pricing is just more than most are willing to pay, but you do get more if that helps. There are deals to be had if you look around. hint...hint... www.pt-motorsports.com

 

I'd lose the Banks high ram. Total waste of money IMO. Your menu looks fun otherwise.

 

Gat, If you go with the banks the high ram is almost necessary or you have to make up your own air tubes. The stock intake horn is pretty restrictive if you are flowing a lot of air. ks

 

Dare I ask the dumb question....

According to this site, they're using the stock turbo as well. If that is the case, how are drive pressures from one kit going to be significantly lower than another if the stock 9cm2 housing is still in place?

Just curious.

 

the only difference between this kit and the relentless kit is that it has an external WG. I bet you could get relentless to put a WG turbo or add a wastegate to their kit. or maybe not.