I had my air intake off and the hole in the manifold is really small. Unless you guys are enlarging the intake area of the cylinder head and removing the intake heater grid, That area,IMO will be the restriction in the system, not the Air intake horn. I was always taught that in any boosted application that the intake side, under pressure is, far less critical than on an unboosted application. At 50-60psi of boost that is being forced thru instead of drawn thru. If there are dyno tests showing large gains by adding the High ram, than I'm definately wrong. I just thought that in all but the highest HP apllications that it would be a really expensive decoration

 

I'm no expert on this stuff, but I think you would want to stud and ring the head with the boost pressure your mods could produce.

 

Everything looks good, but keep the stock injectors. They are not bad at all and will give over 600. Add on a set of ARP studs and your there.

Don~

 

Not a dumb question. Mark Kendrick uses the stock turbo, but he mounts an external wastegate (either a Turbonetics or Tial, 32mm) on it so you're not pushing all the exhaust through the stock turbo. It will make the turbo live longer, and your head gasket happy.

 

the Racegate WG he uses by Turbonetics is ~$360 from summit. easy to add to the relentless kit. I know why a wastegate is nice to have because you can limit your boost, but wouldn't the relentless kit be OK without a WG? Why is one better/safer?

 

I'm been working on a set up for my truck that uses the stocker over a B2 that I can build with a stock wastegate (which can be opened up and given more travel) just controlled differently or a Tial 38mm. Unlike Kendricks stuff it uses a 2nd gen manifold and unlike the Relentless set up I wont have to add the wastegate to the manifold if I want to add it later. The cold piping and downpipe are the same no matter if it is wastegated or not. The only difference is the hot pipe. I just finished everything but the down pipe on my truck and I'm going to be testing it with the stock wastegate and then the Tial for boost vs. back pressure and egt. The Relentless set up is suppose to have 67psi of back pressure at 50psi of boost so I will try to beat that using the modified stock wastegate. I'd like to be 1:1 or better at 50psi.

 

Cancel the High Ram ............useless, and get a 5" exhaust instead of stacks!

Good to go otherwise

Rick

 

https://www.dieselenginemotor.com/in...e=image&id=332 here's 600hp

 

Plow, and about 1850 ft lb of torque .

Most twins I have seen have either a waste gate, BOV or just a bypass tube so that excess boost can by pass the top tubo and go straight to the bottom turbo. The advantabe of the tial or similar is that the top turbo will spool very quick and the second it achieves it most efficient zone all excess is routed to the bottom turbo to bump it to its most efficient zone. It is definitely the most efficient and prevents a drive pressure excess. The bypass tube works in the same fashion but it will result in slightly slower spooling. If there is tons of fueling and the bypass tube is spec'd right then it is more efficient as when boost is near the wastegate opening threshold the wg starts to open and this creates a turbulent flow in the bypass tube. Having a fixed by pass tube gives a constant and smooth bypass flow. The truck I was in that used the bypass tube spooled way faster than mine and peaked at 65 psi (WG) in a heartbeat. ks

 

Edited by Admin

 

This formula will certainly work for 600 hp, but there's much cheaper ways of doing it. 13k will buy much more than 600hp and, if spent wisely, will buy top honors at almost any dyno event.

First off, ditch the Banks stuff because it's not offering anything, especially when cost is considered. Take the money and spend it on studs, and be money ahead.

Twins are nice, but a Phat Shaft 66 will get you to 600 usable hp much cheaper. Go to the Silver Bullet for even more potential, and still be cheaper. Add water/meth if you want.

The TST - Bully Dog stack has been on many dyno event winners and is a proven combination which works. Keep it.

A Walbro fuel pump with an external pressure regulator and 2 micron Racor filter will be cheaper, quieter and more reliable than the FASS.

 

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned a camshaft!!!

 

Just leave it all stock except for propane and nitrous.

 

Like those idiots on Trucks!

 

B-4 I bought my set I asked Chris at Relentless if he'd put a wastegate on a set if I went that way and he said Nope!!