Wow, I would love to see how this is set-up. I had 38"s on mine and they rubbed the back of the fender. That would have to be a rim with a big backspacing in order to make them fit, but still as hognutz said they would have to rub at full lockout on the link bars at minimum.

 

i got lots of pics of mine on dtwtrucks.com same name, and the superlift is , and is easy install!

 

wow was there ever alot dissusion here today. I was asuming bds thing you were talking about with cutting is there long arm kit [ yes you have to cut ] there other kit is the same as eveyone else. I used to be a professnol installer
i have had many trucks with diffrent lifts in them. I have also made lifts from nothing { ig 99 s10 blazer removed ifs added soild axel etc} I am also by trade a heavy and auto partsman,millwright and an A level welder. I have only had this truck 6 weeks so there is no lift yet but it will be SUPERLIFT. tonite I installed my new mbrp exhust, intake,torque tube and removed silencer ring{what a cool sound.

 

how much on average are toyo 37/20 going for in US.

 

this is why I like the toyo's so much right now. All my other trucks I have ran boggers, tsx, radial swamper, thornbirds, etc. 25-30k tops. I have 25k on these toyo's and they still look new. I am very impressed.

this truck I have right now even though I would preffer to have better shocks than I do, I got impatient and lifted the truck the next day. no nice shocks in stock anywhere local. Is hands down the best driving truck I have had lifted. it drives nicer than my old half ton chevy on 35's IMO. Could be alot to do with tires though. I had readial swamper and bogger on that truck.

That is why I get torn on these suspention threads. People talk about how crappy tuff country lifts are but the truck drives so nice. no granted I would run something different than I do on this if I was rock crawling it or something but if you just want a nice driving truck that you wheel ocationally so far I like it. It does not look as extravagant as long arm kits, dual shocks, traction bars, stuff like that but so far so good. maybe I will eat my words eventually. I normally would do springs on a truck. all the other trucks I ahve had rode like a buckwagon compared to this. granted I am losing some travel though. when I did this suspention it was kind of an experiment. I normally spend way more money on the lift but the truck does not ride like stock. so this time I just kept the stock springs knowing it is easy to buy springs if you need them. I did not really think to research the arm matierial though I just truted they would not be stupid. that may or may not come back to bite me.

guess I need find someone who has a nicer lift and ride in it. maybe these dodges just ride nicer. I now my dodge is leagues above the way my friends fords drive. those are leaf spring though.

 

Well, I am running some Dirt Logic 2.25 that have an overflow resevoir and a 7/8" shaft. I love them they are fully adjustable and so far are the best shocks I have run to date. They are a little pricey, but well worth it I think. Also I just found these upper shock mounts which you would need to run if you step up to some of the Fox, kings, or Dirt Logic style shocks. I just fabbed up some mounts in my stock cup. But now that I have found these I am going to change them out and do it right....

http://www.lorenzindustries.com/

 

I would not need a remote shock with my limited travel would I? I guess then agian I could just buy sweet shocks with a lifetime waranty so when I want more travel and switch springs I would just be ready for it.

wonder how those uper mounts compare to kore strenght wise. shooting a bullet at thin material and the physical strenght of a billet piece vs a welded piece can be decieving. the kore is proably more $$$ though. that is where I need to up my knowledge a little bit mechanically. aluminum is weaker than steel but thick billet aluminum sometimes can be stronger than thinner welded steel depending on how it is designed. most of the force would come striat up though that lorenz piece only looks weak laterally. $365 is sur not cheap. then again they probably do not produce very high volume.

 

so in your opinions cowhand and djgaston and whoever else which would be a better lift for me. i do some offroading (to get to atv trails) but 90% of the time its a pavement queen. im looking at the bds and the superlift????whats the difference in coils on the superlift and bds. the bds looks like smaller tubing and less coils how does this effect ride? thanks



it also looks like bds drops the ca's some to fix the high angle, is this correct?

 

KORE won't sell the shock mounts alone. Try Don Thuren, his shock towers are made out of steel and they're cheaper than Lorenz's stuff. I haven't been able to break them yet.

Unless you plan on working the shocks hard, don't waste your money on a reservoir shock. Honestly, for street and mild off road, Bilstein 5100's would work fine.

 

Any leaf-sprung front suspension is going to ride like hell, no matter what you do. A coil-sprung four link is a totally different animal and will ride 10 times better, on and off the road, than a leaf-sprung setup.
With leaf springs, you either get more arch in the spring and get a stiffer spring rate with less travel, or you put more leafs in the pack and get a stiffer spring rate with less travel.
With coil springs, you can change the spring rate, change the spring height, and those are two totally separate things. It's a great thing.

The Tuff Country lift makes me giggle because it uses 6 inch coil spring spacers. Yes, you retain the stock spring rate (which I think is too stiff, personally) but look at the extra stress. You are also creating another weak point. Before, the spring was one piece. Now it's basically two pieces, with four weak points.
To me, putting on a 6 inch spring spacer is like putting on a 6 inch body lift. They are both okay in moderation but there is a point where they are too tall and create too much leverage on the bolts that hold them in place.

Here is 6 inches worth of spacers.

 

I would go with the BDS lift because it does have the upper control arm relocation brackets that you see in the picture. What they do is keep the upper arms parallel with the ground, and also spread out the distance between the upper and lowers, creating more dive control when braking. The BDS lift is a better lift, no questions asked. The springs are not wound as tightly, but in my experience that has led to a slightly stiffer ride on the highway, but much better offroad performance. I've had 4 different sets of coils on my 2001 Ram and that is my general opinion on the matter. The one thing I would change for sure is to not use the rear blocks. Get you a set of replacement rear leaf packs. I am running the Skyjacker 4 inch leaf packs on my CTD and they ride great and tow great.

The one thing I do like about the Superlift kit is the sway bar links are extended instead of having to drop the sway bar mounts at the frame. That is more of a looks/cosmetic thing than anything else.

Here is a picture of how the control arm relocation brackets work:


You see how it raises the upper arm and helps add stability to axle control. It makes sense that the further those two arms are apart, the more leverage they have on the axle "roll" and therefore control the diving effect much better.
That is how the arms sit at ride height with the truck on the ground.
Now if the upper arm brackets were not there, such as in the Superlift kit, then you can easily see what kind of angle the upper arm would have. Look at the big bolt below the upper arm bolt at the axle. That is where the stock hole is centered.

 

Coils with a steeper angle...less wraps will be stiffer if all other things are keep equal. They are cheaper and ride rougher. The superlift look better than the BDS just by appearance alone...but that is not the whole story...so I will not comment anymore on that.

There is only axial stess in the spring (up down...no sideways loading...that is why your truck has control arms and a track bar)...so properly designed spacers do not have ANY ill effects to the overal strength and performance of the system. However..you do not gain much safe usable travel with spacers...that is there downfall. The spacer could allow the spring to be over compressed...unless something else is limiting the uptravel of the axle...longer bumpstops, bottoming out the shocks (ouch) or...

I personally have not had an issue with OEM spring damage and a 4.5 inch spacer. I do not have an idea whether 6" might be too much. I personally like the side effect of slight over compression of the OEM spring...it gives you a progressive increase in spring rate as the spring starts to come into contact with itself.

 

Personally, I'm not too hot on either one, but if all I had was a choice between the two, I'd go BDS.

Compare the coil spacing and wire diameter from either kit with this....



This is a 360-370lb coil with a 1" wire diameter. It's about 20% softer than stock.

Compare the arms in either kit with these....



You can put together a custom performance suspension for roughly the same cost as an off the shelf kit.

CA's - $325
CSS coils- $300
Bilstein 5100's- $300/set
Drop pitman arm- $75
Poly bump stops- $50
U-bolts - $50
Track bar drop bracket - $100?
Thuren track bar - $300

$1500 plus a rear lift, block, add a leaf or springs, anywhere from another $75 to $400.

DJ can probably chime in with a good source for the pitman arm, bump stops and track bar drop bracket (Chris @ 4Wheel Customs?)

 

Chris at 4 Wheel Customs is an excellent source for any parts. I've purchased things like a pitman arm from him without any problems at all and his prices are great.
http://www.4wheelcustoms.com

Here in about a month, all I'll have left of my Skyjacker suspension are the springs, bumpstops, track bar drop bracket (modified and welded up though), and pitman arm.

 

All I have left is the pitman arm and bumps....but I'm thinking air bumps pretty soon.

DJ, you got shorty fabbin up more goodies for you?