what is wrong with a superlift kit?????

 

What don't you like about the superlift. I have talked to guys and they like the lift but they just told me to upgrade to bilstein shocks??? I must say that there is some dammmn good looking dodges out there. I am not thinking about rims?? You fellas have some good looking trucks out there with rims(hognutz, Itsallgood, RedRock, DjGaston) . I am getting a good deal on the lift due to the fact that my girlfriend's brother works at les schwab and installs lifts and her brother in-law sells tires and rims and he works for me part time!!! What size of wheel and width do you guys reccomend?? 18, 20??? I think a 10" width would be fine, I would love it if I could find a tall and skinnny 37" tall tire!!

 

The skinniest radial 37's I found that I liked were the Parnelli Jones and the Cooper STT's 37/12.5/17's I'd like my Ram to have the same look my Tacoma had with 33/9.5's. I'm looking to resuspend mine only enough to clear 37's. I'm thinking of a Kore/DRC or something like that kit and maybe the front fiberglass fenders, got to get ready for Spring ! Plus the stock BFG's aren't the hot ticket for Sno-wheelin .

 

our turcks are strait axel. there is no rocket science to the lift. control arms, steering arm, spacers or springs. people all have their favorite lift but they are all very similar. even a pos tuff country lift like I have can be upgraded later with springs and shocks if you want to make it more durable. the lift was enough cheaper the spacers are basically free. I could have bough the tuff country and front and rear springs for the same price as the skyjacker and it was only 5". some people act like if you don't have a kore lift you truck won't drive. I have had mine with pos spacers and all in the sand and mud with no issues.

wheel size is all personal preferenance really. some don't like the larger wheels for looks. so don't like the reduced sidewall. I don't like smaller wheels just because hmm I have had a ton of trucks and they all had 15-17 inch wheels. just wanted something different this time. this thing is my family car so it is kind of a pavement pounder right now.

tire size is going to be limited. 12.5-13.5 is as narrow as 37's get and on a ten inch rim those will still not be too skinny. if you want a skinny look run a narrower rim. I have 13.5 on 9.5 and they don't look that narrow.

the only reason I ended up with 22" wheels was completely finacial. for what ever reason when I was buying these were the prices I was quoted on the weld velocity 8 when I purchased.

18 $450
20 $550
22 $417

now that I have them I like it. Some people on message boards will smack talk larger rims. some retards will even talk about wanting to put 15's on thier truck not relizing 17" is as small as you can go. Everbody I have ever taked to in person thinks it looks great. my. 02 is just look at pics and get what you like. some people like the stock wheels. unfortunalty for my wallet I was not one of them. usually 18" will be cheaper so that is what I was originally going to get. in my case though 22" was a better deal. go figure.

 

This is why the Superlift "kit" sucks:



They give you a 6 inch lift kit but keep the control arms in the stock mounts, which basically puts the upper arms in a position where they are nowhere near being parallel with the ground. This creates problems with the way your suspension will react when you hit the brakes hard, causing the front to "dive." The upper arms need to be spaced out more from the lowers. The arm quality is also questionable. The 2nd gen kits were the definition of "suck," with many of the control arms cracking and breaking after being installed. The new arms for the 3rd gen are a little stronger but I doubt they were improved upon very much.
4 link systems are not rocket science, but Superlift still has not figured out how to make a good kit, plain and simple. They can make good IFS kits, but their straight axle kits are very lacking. Hognutz, there is a LOT more to a 4 link system than what you listed.

Skyjacker and BDS are the only two kits I would recommend for the 3rd gen trucks if you want to clear 37's. The KORE kit is nice but too expensive, in my opinion. But I know that you can get the same parts much cheaper.

Tuff Country is along the same lines of Superlift. You can easily see how related both products are. There is no engineering in either one of these kits.

 

i dont know why u sre talking bad about superlift. i have one on my truck i like does drive funny or nothin i have put 10,000 miles on my kit so far no problems at all.

 

I'm "talking bad" about Superlift because, as stated above, the kit is not designed properly. It has nothing to do with anything other than the fact that their suspension system is sub-par. If the same kit was made by Skyjacker or anybody else, I would be saying the same thing.

10,000 miles isn't a lot, by the way.

 

I just wanted to say that hognutz truck is so sweet . i think the superlift is a very good lift company. just for some info skyjacker is coming out with a 6" kit for our trucks. some more info. superlift and skyjacker are located in the same state,in the same town and on the same street. HUM so no slaging superlift. now bds do you want a kit for your $50,000 truck that you cut on and the companys real name is big dicks suspenison=bds. and that ture. just my 2 cents worth.

 

So because both companies are right across the street from each other in West Monroe, Louisiana, they must make the same quality lifts, right? You base a companies lift on their name, also? They could be called Flaming Pile of Crap Suspensions, Inc and if the kit was of good engineering, I would purchase it. Hell, one of the best places to buy hydraulic steering is Performance Offroad Steering = POS. So are you saying that they must suck, too?

I was trying to keep this discussion factual, and based on what really matters. Now when this thread turns into a pissing contest, we all know to BLAME CANADA.

 

ya your right blame canada. I dont base a company on a name. every company dose one or two things better than another. I know what brands i would use for what trucks and so what. but cutting off the suspenion on $50k truck for a $1k lift kit. dumb,asking for problems. oh but you must be an engineer eh

 

What cutting is involved in ANY of the kits mentioned in this post? None. They are all a bolt-in installation. No offense, but do you even have any idea what you are talking about? My experience comes from installing dozens of different lifts on different trucks. I am not an engineer, but I don't need to be in order to understand how any suspension works... nor do I have to be an ASE mechanic in order to understand how to work on my truck. You are too caught up with cost, names, etc... outside appearance. It doesn't matter how much you paid for your truck, or how much a lift kit costs. What matters is what kind of product you get.

Just to point out a hypocritical statement, you said that you do not base a company on their name... yet, what did you say in your previous post?

 

this is funny to me.

so you are basing all this critisism just because they use the stock control are locations?

I bet you can't even mathmaticaly explain the advantage of moving the mounting point.

 

Can you? And if you can, what do you do with the numbers when you get them? How many lifts have you installed? How many suspension systems have you designed or modified? How many parts have you broken, figuring out what works on paper and what actually works on the truck?

I agree with Danny, but I'll take it one step further and say that the vast majority of off the shelf kits are garbage. They simply increase the ride height to clear bigger tires, they don't offer much in the way of additional strength or wheel travel. They're like body lifts for suspension. I had what was recognized as one of the better kits out there, and after two years I had nothing but problems with it. I chased BAD death wobble for the better part of two years. Since I got rid of all the red garbage in my front end I've had ZERO problems.

DJ's been there, done that, has the broken parts to show for it. I know he's done Dodge front ends from 4" all the way up to 12", and then torture tested them. He knows what he's talking about.....so maybe if you pay attention and don't read too much into his posts, you'll learn something.

Hognutz....he's not bashing your truck, he's bashing you lift manufacturer. You'll see what he means in about 20-30K miles.....

 

Well...I am an engineer...

Lifts up to 6" usually do not need control arm relocation. If you do a free body diagram to see the difference in lateral load (lateral-front to back-load is what you feel as "rough"...the vertical componet is sent to the spring and shock) that is transfered to the frame because of the increased angle (steeper) conrol arms...it is a minimal difference. Better quality shock absorbers (Bilsteen and up), a quality kit (Tuff works just fine here if you are happy with OEM sping rates...I am...their welds and craftmanship is fine) and a reasonable lift height (2.5-6 inches) will result in a better riding truck.

Poor craftmanship, engineering (I have never had a problem getting my Tuff lifted trucks aligned perfectly...that is what it is all about), bad springs or spring rates, and crappy shocks will kill all of the above. Pic and choose a few parts and a great lifted ride can be had!

Now...for real world experience...I have driven 250k or so on several Tuff lifted trucks...77k on my most recent 3rd gen. I have never had one issue or complaint and have enjoyed an amazing ride the entire time. Even with 37's...the ride is soooooooooooooooooo much better than stock. If you don't need more than 2-3"...go to a Kore set up for the ultimate (btw...I don't see them relocating control arm mounts?????).

 

BTW...you have a 2nd gen...you should have done your homework with Superlift and Skyjacker...you would have not had that DW issue with a couple of "other" lift manufacturers. I know several 4.5" lifted 2 gens that have performed flawlessly for 100k.