Trans temp fitting
I ordered my Isspros, trans temp, EGT and boost. I also got the T fitting for the trans sender. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...pf_id=500-TTSA Has anyone used this on a 68rfe? GDP says to cut the line and put the T in place. Never had to cut a trans line before. I have a mini hacksaw and a Dremel that I can use, or should I hit up Harbor Freight for some tools?
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I ordered my Isspros, trans temp, EGT and boost. I also got the T fitting for the trans sender. http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...pf_id=500-TTSA Has anyone used this on a 68rfe? GDP says to cut the line and put the T in place. Never had to cut a trans line before. I have a mini hacksaw and a Dremel that I can use, or should I hit up Harbor Freight for some tools?
But do a good write up with pics. This is something I intend to get around to one day.
Remember once the line is cut the trans fluid will run out from both ends. You will need to refill the trans with the proper fluid, so make sure you have some on hand.
I instead put a Mag-Hytec pan on, then put the trans temperature probe gage in the pan. This way I could return the truck to stock, if I sold the truck. The new pan also provides for more cooling through the AL pan and more capacity. When I tow my 5er I am usually around 180F in the summer on flat land with this configuration.
If you decide to go this way I would change both filters and put new trans fluid in.
Just my $0.02
Jim
I instead put a Mag-Hytec pan on, then put the trans temperature probe gage in the pan. This way I could return the truck to stock, if I sold the truck. The new pan also provides for more cooling through the AL pan and more capacity. When I tow my 5er I am usually around 180F in the summer on flat land with this configuration.
If you decide to go this way I would change both filters and put new trans fluid in.
Just my $0.02
Jim
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