Do you need a specail tip to grease the u joint? I do not see any grease fitting other than a small rubber looking plug in the very center of the joint. Is this what Im suppost to put grease in? I looked in the owners man. and I called the local dealer, had to leave message. I thaught this would be a 2 minute job! It should be , Shouldn't it????????????

 

You need a needle type grease fitting.....and the only one I've found that fits worth a krap is one made by Alemite Corp and is about 4.75 inches long. Seems to hit the spot and yet clear that dang crossmember just right. I got mine at a Car Quest store.

 

Thanks for the info!! When I noticed that little rubber plug I thaught this is gonna be funThanks again< I will head to car quest first thing in the morning.

 

i think you can remove the plug and use a zerk fitting. than use a needle on your grease gun to pump into the center of the fitting

 

There was a past post on this, but I can not find it.

 

Thanks for the pic. I baught a needle that should get it. Im going to get to it tonight after work, Thanks again guys for all the info and pic. John

 

Does the plug need to be removed to put greese in, or is the plug an actual zerk?

 

It is like a zerk but is flush. There is a ball that has to be pushed in to get the grease in.

 

Just got through greasing my front drive shaft. This time I took it off completely ( made a mess last time ) and instead of putting those cheap easy to strip # 40 torx scews heads back in there I replaced them with grade 8 metric bolts size M8-1.25 x 35 and used lock washer

 

Tnhtractors,
I was wondering did you check the articulation angle of your drive shaft and the new hardware that you installed to insure that you have clearance?
I know when I was on a designing team, we would always check to insure that the yokes would clear the mounting hardware. There is a pretty good bang when they hit. Another thing to remember that lock washers will give you a false torque reading. The lock washer will cause a burr to form under the head and the abutment surface and will provide a false reading. This is why you will not see lock washers on new heavy equipment when it is manufactured now. When a washer is required for abutment strength a harden washer is used.
I am a retired engineer after 40 years of design Big Boy Toy's.

Just my $0.02

 

I agree, so we are up to $0.04. If you do not want them to fall out use lock-tite on the threads.

 

Jim W. Yes i checked for proper clearance. Everything turns fine. I just got back from a 500 mile round trip today (did driveshaft yesterday ) and I used my 4 wheel drive when I got there ( low range ) I was crawling over blasted rock in a quarry. no banging or clanking. Your right about the lock washers, the one I use are metric 2 piece design that are used on our Tamrock rock drills, they are flat on 1 side and have special groves on the other side, you put the 2 grove sided sides together, slide them onto the bolt then torque them down. They will never release that bolt, and they are to be used only 1 time. And for extra help I did put lock-tite on them. Dirt roads and rock quarries sure can rattle a truck click on photo for a blast apart