It's worth $30 to have someone change it that knows how to. If your not careful you will be taking a shower in diesel fuel. I remove left front wheel and inner wheel well you have to remove all the 5/16 head screws first. I think there are 10 screws. Push in on wheel well to remove it from fender a little difficult if you have not done this before. Then remove WIF sensor connector by squeezing release tab and pulling down on connector. Then loosen filter and the drain valve so filter will drain some fuel out first into drain pan.. Then unscrew keeping filter upright when removing since filter holds about one quart of fuel. I wouldn't want to attemp this in my nice clean driveway. I do all this in five minutes, including installing new filter, wheel and inner wheel well. How long would it take you? oh by the way donot ever prime these filters first. Just bump the starter wait 15 seconds turn key off, then bump starter again. This will prime filter, Turn key off, then start engine. Good Luck.

 

Second on the letting someone else do it. Did mine today and now remember why I'm glad it's only every 15k. Oh and that little ratchet square now added to the bottom, NO HELP. You need a short extension to clear the new drain valve, not to mention it's a 1/2" opening. Even my swivels couldn't get to it. Guess I'll keep using my strap wrench. Only reason I miss my 5.9's.

Chris

 

Thanks for the reply Bigiron 70. That is what I will do the next time and carrying a spare with me is a good idea also.
Getting ready to leave for Mesa, AZ and Poway,Ca for the holidays to spend time with Grandkids. Don't want any trouble on the road its a real Pain.

Tom Williams
Evansville,IN
2009 Dodge 2500 6.7 CTD

 

thtas what I paid also, $10.00, should have bought alot of them. I bragged to my brother (has a 08 F-450 K/R) how inexpensive they were.

 

I just changed to the new canister and filter yesterday. Its not much fun. I've got a lot of clearance above the tire (4X4) and its pretty easy to reach under the fender liner. I just couldn't get a good grip even with a strap wrench to get the old integrated canister off. It took about an hour of swearing and trying to get a better angle on it before I finally got the old one removed.

As mentioned before, the 1/2" drive connector on the bottom doesn't do you a lot of good on the new one either. My socket wrench was too short to get past the water sensor and drain valve. My shortest 1/2" extension is about 2" long, then part of the suspension was in the way and I still couldn't get on it with the socket wrench. I ended up giving it a really healthy hand tight twist that I think is good enough. I need to find something like a 1" long 1/2" extension and I think I could change it as fast as I could on my previous 5.9. Or maybe a chunk of 1/2 square stock from the local home store cut to fit might do it. I may be in the shed with the torch bending a hex key like 1/2" square custom wrench next weekend...

Bottom line, if the dealer will do it for $30 or so, its probably worth it.

I'm wondering if I got took buying mine though. I paid $74 for the new canister with a filter included. The parts guy made it sound like the filter itself would be less than half next time around. I have long drive coming up and just wanted it changed before I go as I'm right at 15K miles. I have to admit if they are requiring this change and its necessary to uphold your warranty, why do I have to buy the new canister?

 

The first change was not fun for me either. I had to use a strap wrench as well. But putting it on, I think the 1/2" drive in the bottom of the filter is fluted to only allow it to be removed anyway. The socket drive will be pushed out if you go to tighten from the bottom.

I think Genos has good deals on filter packages.