FloPro DPF Delete...
FloPro DPF Delete...
Is the only disadvantage to this inexpensive unit that you will have a constant CEL? I'm just wondering if it's worth $400 more just to get a downpipe and fooler box to not have CELs. I'm getting used to having that pretty yellow light on in the dash so if I'd be in the same position, only getting better mileage and having a truck with a bit more pep, Maybe I'll spend $250 and do it....
Yeah, I thought about that too but you still get that little chime on every startup. I have done that in the past myself and I may do it again real soon
. I also found a new county to park my truck in so emissions won't be an issue for me anymore....
. I also found a new county to park my truck in so emissions won't be an issue for me anymore....
I've had a lot of success with Flo-Pro, not trying to push it, but I use their stuff and my local muffler shop (friend owned) sells them like crazy now that ppl have heard my truck. I think you will find it a good choice for the money.
I would say yes you would want the down pipe as well. If you get under the truck and look at the down pipe you will see what I am talking about. I have everything off my truck and went with a 5"tbe setup with a muffler and it is pretty quite. Also when you get rid of everything and take it off there is not a piece in the exhuast you can see through and a couple of them aren't 18" long. You will get a better gain by taking it all off and putting new on. Still may get a light not sure as I have an Edge and I to blocked the EGR. That is a whole different story.
The problem is that work isn't too great these days so money is tighter than usual. I also have a very large personal property tax bill I have to pay by next month. I'm also having a hard time convincing myself that it's worth the $700 that the code free kit costs..... As I said, I'm getting used to the CELs now. I don't mind leaving the DP w/ the CAT on there for now either. I can always get a DP later on.
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The FloPro ad on e-bay for just the pipe says "Custom Tuning Required". I assume this means that if you want to be code free than you need the custom tuning?!?! If I were to cheap out and get this pipe I should be fine other than a CEL right? I am going to do the EGR too....
i looked at the flo pro too. talked to the guy from the site below, and he seemed to be good. had the stuff in stock. he was out of town and returned my call after i had ordered from badp. anyway with the flo pro kits, the deete sims are sold seperate for around $315. so really the price was going to be the same as my gen 1 frm badp.
http://dpfperformance.com/DPFDeleteDodge.aspx
http://dpfperformance.com/DPFDeleteDodge.aspx
yeah don't let the separate prices fool you, Zilla. You need both the pipework AND the sims/fooler box in order to operate the truck. If you just straight pipe it with no fooling method attached ("code free" or otherwise) your truck will go into limp mode.
As MikeyB said, if you are going to do anything, do it right. If cost is an issue right now, why not wait on it until the "code free" DPF and EGR deletes are on the market, tested, proven, and readily available? Then you have no worries. If you are in a hurry to get these parts off your truck (as I was), I suggest going with a proven delete manufacturer (read: H&S or BADP), getting their non-code free kit, then upgrading to code free later on. Both H&S and BADP include downpipes with their kits and the downpipe is where your mileage will really increase. That is one restrictive NOx absorber. You won't see the sudden drop in mileage that is associated with Regens if you delete just the DPF, but you won't see the extraordinary gains the rest of us have unless you free ALL the restrictions in the exhaust. Believe me, once you take that downpipe off and look inside of it, you will fully understand where all our advice is coming from. Something has to be said of the fact that everyone who has done the deletes not only strongly recommends them but recommends the delete of everything, right?
As MikeyB said, if you are going to do anything, do it right. If cost is an issue right now, why not wait on it until the "code free" DPF and EGR deletes are on the market, tested, proven, and readily available? Then you have no worries. If you are in a hurry to get these parts off your truck (as I was), I suggest going with a proven delete manufacturer (read: H&S or BADP), getting their non-code free kit, then upgrading to code free later on. Both H&S and BADP include downpipes with their kits and the downpipe is where your mileage will really increase. That is one restrictive NOx absorber. You won't see the sudden drop in mileage that is associated with Regens if you delete just the DPF, but you won't see the extraordinary gains the rest of us have unless you free ALL the restrictions in the exhaust. Believe me, once you take that downpipe off and look inside of it, you will fully understand where all our advice is coming from. Something has to be said of the fact that everyone who has done the deletes not only strongly recommends them but recommends the delete of everything, right?
Thanks guys. I looked up under the truck while I was rotating my tires yesterday and I think I will agree with you and I will look at doing it right with the DP and fooler. Maybe I just won't pay my property taxes since they are telling me my tax is based on my truck being worth $49,000........
All the help is appreciated....
Will I be required to remove my "Bluetec" emblem when I do this?
All the help is appreciated....
Will I be required to remove my "Bluetec" emblem when I do this?
i did, but it certainly isn't required. Just gives John Q. Law one less piece of ammunition to get me with if he is having a bad day and I am in his radar.
However, if you DO remove your BlueTec badge, you ARE required to include yourself into the "Official Removed BlueTec Badge Club" in your signature!
However, if you DO remove your BlueTec badge, you ARE required to include yourself into the "Official Removed BlueTec Badge Club" in your signature!


