Check out this engine break-in.
#1
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Check out this engine break-in.
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my buddies and i do it on our hot rods. I was told to break it in how you are going to drive it. You gonna be hot rodding it, break it in hot rodding it and so on. It has been working for us, but to each his own.
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The guy that taught me to build HIGH horsepower engines says to do the same thing. When it comes to engines I pretty much take anything that man tels me to heart. The reasons are this, in less than a few months he blew up 2 $30,000 blown alcohol drag engines both at the 1300 hp range, yeah thats right 2 in a few months. After that he decided to take a few years off from racing to study nothing but metallurgy, fuels, and lubrication. Now when he builds his $50,000 1500 HP blown alcohol engines they don't blow up on him. In fact now he only rebuilds them once maybe twice a year and thats just to make sure nothing does break. I mean come on running that much power you will break something but instead of rebuilding once every race or two he is down to once or twice a year. Thats AWESOME, at least to me. One of the first things he said was after you build an engine is that when you run it that you better give it hell and it should last alot better than if you didnt. that is of course if you put it together correctly. His example is take a NASCAR engine (yeah i went there) , those guys dont have time to have these easy "BREAK INs " on their engines, they just build them and run the devil out of them. Then he said if you dont believe me you can ask one of his former students that now builds NASCAR race engines or his friend in the shop down the street that built those engines for 15 years. So yeah I am one of those that no matter what kind of engine it is I run the devil out of it right out of the box.
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#8
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Bigtxdually, that black dually in your gallery with semi wheels, is that at the DHRA drags from last Oct. in Houston? There was one with a HUGE trailer ball on it that looked like that.
#9
I break in my motorcycles this way...
The idea is to create high cylinder pressures to help seat the rings better.
But, the break-in method here does not involve high rpm off the bat, nor does it involve sustained rpm. The idea is to accelerate hard at WOT and decelerate with the throttle closed, but don't come close to the rev-limiter.
So far, 3 bikes that run great and use no oil.
I think there's some truth to it, even on a Cummins. My blowby tube pukes smoke in the morning with the EB on. I need to tow heavy or something to work the motor hard. Maybe I need to drag a forklift around for a month to give the motor a workout? I have 9k miles, I don't think it will make a difference. I'll have to wait until 20-30k for a fully broken-in motor...
The idea is to create high cylinder pressures to help seat the rings better.
But, the break-in method here does not involve high rpm off the bat, nor does it involve sustained rpm. The idea is to accelerate hard at WOT and decelerate with the throttle closed, but don't come close to the rev-limiter.
So far, 3 bikes that run great and use no oil.
I think there's some truth to it, even on a Cummins. My blowby tube pukes smoke in the morning with the EB on. I need to tow heavy or something to work the motor hard. Maybe I need to drag a forklift around for a month to give the motor a workout? I have 9k miles, I don't think it will make a difference. I'll have to wait until 20-30k for a fully broken-in motor...
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When I was doing hot shot work that was the only way to brake them in less that 1k load up to about 26k and hit the road. Those 97s were great.
#12
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Thats how I broke in my klx after I put in the new cams and piston. The motor is bullet proof and runs like a champ... no oil usage and 1 kick starting at -5 F temps...
#13
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Even Cummins will tell you to work the engine to properly break it in. When I drove OTR semis on new or rebuild engines we would load them up to 80,000 lbs and run them non stop for no less then 24 hours.
I broke in my truck in by loading weight in the bed at 550 miles. Then at 1300 miles my wife and I drove it non stop except for fuel 33+ hours from IA to OR and we did the same on the return trip with more weight. I also changed the oil at 1050, 3600, 7500 and at 10,300 I went to synthetic oil.
IMHO working a diesel engine to break it in (either by carrying weight in the bed or towing 3-10K) is not the same a driving it like you stole it for 10-20K and hope the rings seat.
I broke in my truck in by loading weight in the bed at 550 miles. Then at 1300 miles my wife and I drove it non stop except for fuel 33+ hours from IA to OR and we did the same on the return trip with more weight. I also changed the oil at 1050, 3600, 7500 and at 10,300 I went to synthetic oil.
IMHO working a diesel engine to break it in (either by carrying weight in the bed or towing 3-10K) is not the same a driving it like you stole it for 10-20K and hope the rings seat.
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Yeah as far as I know my little guy was the only big dually out there this year, well mine and Bucks, he was the red one on 37s with chrome wheels and the Kelderman Air lift. Infact Buck and I traded wheels and thats how he got his chrome wheels and thats how I got my 22.5s.
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So how should I break in my new 4500 when I pick it up in April? It will be just a cab and chassis and nothing on the back. It will be about 2 or so weeks before I get my dump bed installed, but until then should I just fuel it up after driving off the lot and take a long (bumpy) ride and and punch it or should I just take it home and let it sit till I get the dump body put on and then hook up my trailer and take a long ride?