so did you have a HUGE trailer ball on the back of your truck? I think i got video of your truck running!

 

If its legal to drive on the street before you get your bed on it then during the first 1K try to do 85% or more Hwy driving above 55MPH. If the 4500 is like the 25-3500 trucks you should not tow or haul weight for the first 500 miles to let the rear gears mesh.

IMHO there is no need to punch it when driving but try to limit your town stop and go driving to no more then 20%. Once you get the bed on it and your past the first 500 miles add some weight and take it on a very long 24+ hours non stop drive one way. If you can't do a long 24+ hour drive then keep 2,000 lbs or more weight in the bed during the first 6K while you drive it and try to keep town driving to no more then 20%. FYI the only time I shut mine off during my 33+ hour drive was long enough to add fuel.

JMHO

 

I feel better now... I always felt bad taking out a car/truck for a test ride and beating the life out of it to see if I liked it or not. I now find out I did them a favor.

 

I have a friend who deals in airplanes and I asked him about break-in. "Can't baby them in the air can you?" "No, you just run 'em" as he moved his right hand forward.

 

OK, will do.

 

You are not breaking in an engine. You are wearing in the parts to fit each other. You are avoiding extreme high heat and allowing lubricant to be parts of wearing in process. Just because you run the bejesus out of something and it doesn't fail, may not be best aproach.

 

I worked at the Ford Lorain plant in both commercial and passenger assembly and that is exactly what they did . The van or car comes to the end of the line were it is then started for the first time , floored and drove over to roll test , on the rolls it is opened up for 5 or 6 minutes with an inspector inside checking all electrical and monitoring the engine . If they fail , then they came to me or 4 other guys in the electrical repair hole or heavy hole repair for the drive train . There were 6 different roll tests to keep up with the line with a vehicle coming off every minute . On almost every start up till it hits the dealer it is pedal to the metal and tires squealing . I worked at the Norfolk truck plant for a while also , and it was the same thing there , I think you would find it that way in most of the plants .

 

I've "heard" (source unknown) that the Cummins motors are all pre-run, load applied, and mostly broken in at the factory... am I wrong?? Well, whatever way they do it, it seems to work... that motor is amazing... speaking of amazing, we're under a wind chill warning AGAIN here, -30 temps and with the wind, into the mid -40's... YEA!!! global warming...

 

I head of this method 50 years ago from sports car and Gran Prix race drivers and mechanics. Worked for me.

 

bet yall didnt expect to get this kind of response huh?

 

when i had my 06 brand new i put 3k lbs of sand in the bed and romped up a grade and down it for 2 hard hours. the next dat i drove to work and got 21 mpg with onlt 1k on the clock.

 

Heh, nope didn't think the posters would respond this way.

Anyone know if the badp exhaust system will work on a 6.7 chassis cab? It's race/off road kit.

 

We run a new motor varying RPM and Load for the first complete heat cycle or two...change out the break in oil, then off to the dyno/track/street. Change the oil again after another 50 or so miles to make sure most of the metal is outta the motor, swap to synthetic (depending on motor), and TURN IT LOOSE!

 

Each engine is spun a 3500 rpm (no load, engine not even running) for 5 minutes. Not sure if that will seat the rings cause there is not as much heat.

 

I guess at 65000 miles I am still breaking mine in. Cause I run her like i stole her still....