3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2007 and up 6.7 liter Engine and Drivetrain discussion only. PLEASE, NO HIGH PERFORMANCE DISCUSSION!

2007 6.7 isb

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Old 08-02-2014, 12:32 PM
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2007 6.7 isb

Just purchased this truck a little over a month ago and it has a P003A code which I was told by two different places (one being a Dodge dealer) that the code was for the turbo boost sensor or the actuator with the dealer telling me that the entire turbo needed to be replaced. So I guess my question is has anyone had much success with just replacing the actuator?


P.S.
This is my first Dodge and first Cummins powered so don't know much about them!
Old 08-02-2014, 06:43 PM
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Replace the turbo since turbo nozzle is most likely not moving anymore because of soot buildup. The actuator most likely failed because of this, replacing just the actuator is not advised.
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Old 08-03-2014, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by BigIron70
Replace the turbo since turbo nozzle is most likely not moving anymore because of soot buildup. The actuator most likely failed because of this, replacing just the actuator is not advised.


Pretty much what I thought because the exhaust brake is not working and I figured it was from soot buildup.
Ok buying a reman turbo with the actuator installed one would assume that it is calibrated, so would you have to have it setup in the ecm or would it be plug and play so to speak?
Old 08-03-2014, 07:34 AM
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Be sure to leave your exhaust brake engaged on your new turbo to avoid this happening again in the future. That forces the vanes on the turbo to open and close so the soot can't build up around them and lock them up
Old 08-03-2014, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Lary Ellis (Top)
Be sure to leave your exhaust brake engaged on your new turbo to avoid this happening again in the future. That forces the vanes on the turbo to open and close so the soot can't build up around them and lock them up


Thanks I will do that, but I guess the previous owner didn't run it much or at all. So would there be the need to have the turbo set up in the ECM after replacing it or would it just be a matter of plugging it in?
Old 08-03-2014, 09:37 PM
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I would only use factory reman only, 12 months 12,000 mile warranty. I have only had to mopar claim 1 out of hundred or more that I have changed in 9 years. No calibration necessary, I would update PCM with the new turbo install.
Old 08-04-2014, 11:37 AM
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Unhappy

Originally Posted by BigIron70
I would only use factory reman only, 12 months 12,000 mile warranty. I have only had to mopar claim 1 out of hundred or more that I have changed in 9 years. No calibration necessary, I would update PCM with the new turbo install.


Thank You BigIron,
Any suggestions on where to buy one at a decent price, Dodge dealer here is out of the park for me anyway!
Old 08-04-2014, 12:57 PM
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Make sure you get price with core return. Last one I did was around $1200. Install it yourself and save money. Not that hard if you follow my procedure.
Old 08-04-2014, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by BigIron70
Make sure you get price with core return. Last one I did was around $1200. Install it yourself and save money. Not that hard if you follow my procedure.


Yea I have been doing some research and 1,000 to 1,200 is what I have I have figured is going to be the going rate although I have seen some over three grand, new I guess! Where is your procedure located at, like to look at it!
Old 08-10-2014, 08:26 PM
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This is Chrysler's procedure which has several steps not needed if you remove the four turbo studs first. The turbo can then be removed without raising engine and removing engine mount or fan shroud. The studs will unscrew once broken loose with good pair of vise grips. The rear inside nut for the turbo is the most difficult. You will need to bend exhaust manifold bolt retainer to get wrench on nut. There is a special wrench but I have been able to get nut loose with combo wrench 15mm 12point. I've also found that heating the nuts allows it to break loose easier.
Installing turbo two studs will need to go into exhaust manifold first. I use a rubber band placed over stud then pull across gasket then around other stud. This way it holds gasket in position on manifold and holds the two studs in position. The inside rear stud and front outside stud are the two that need to be in place first, since they will not go in after turbo is in position. Remember to pre-oil turbo, vent air from cooling system by remove plug in EGR coolant line when filling cooling system. I've changed a hundred turbo's this way in the last 9 years and never had a problem yet. Although I did go out on workmans comp because I was replacing more turbos then my back could handle at 62 years olds. You will find out what i mean when you start lifting the turbo out of the engine compartment. Try replacing two turbo's a day. Good Luck
Attached Files
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Turbo removal.pdf (205.1 KB, 210 views)
File Type: pdf
Turbo install.pdf (206.8 KB, 164 views)
Old 08-17-2014, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BigIron70
This is Chrysler's procedure which has several steps not needed if you remove the four turbo studs first. The turbo can then be removed without raising engine and removing engine mount or fan shroud. The studs will unscrew once broken loose with good pair of vise grips. The rear inside nut for the turbo is the most difficult. You will need to bend exhaust manifold bolt retainer to get wrench on nut. There is a special wrench but I have been able to get nut loose with combo wrench 15mm 12point. I've also found that heating the nuts allows it to break loose easier.
Installing turbo two studs will need to go into exhaust manifold first. I use a rubber band placed over stud then pull across gasket then around other stud. This way it holds gasket in position on manifold and holds the two studs in position. The inside rear stud and front outside stud are the two that need to be in place first, since they will not go in after turbo is in position. Remember to pre-oil turbo, vent air from cooling system by remove plug in EGR coolant line when filling cooling system. I've changed a hundred turbo's this way in the last 9 years and never had a problem yet. Although I did go out on workmans comp because I was replacing more turbos then my back could handle at 62 years olds. You will find out what i mean when you start lifting the turbo out of the engine compartment. Try replacing two turbo's a day. Good Luck


Sorry I am just now posting a reply on this thread but my oldest brother as been very sick this past week and we almost lost him three times but thank the stars that he is much better now and in good spirits.
Anyway I bought a remanned turbo for 850.00(HOORAY) and received it just the other day and it appears to be nice rebuild. I always replace the studs on any turbo replacement that I do ( I own two Kenworths but with Cat engines) and have to order the gaskets and stuff for this job. The way you explained it was a big relief because when I looked at those pdf files I said "take the engine mount loose, raise the engine wow" so thanks Big Iron a bunch!




P.S.
Know all about lifting the turbo and stuff because I am 66!
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