Will this $50 princess auto ujoint press work on 3rd gen ball joints on a solid axle? i have the other peieces but i bought this press.

 

what do i need to remove hub/bearing assembly? some say use the steering?how? any1 got pics of what im supposed to do to remove bearings? arent they just 2 tapered roller bearings?

 

Should, though you will need the proper cups. That press looks exactly like the one in my Matco ball joint kit actually.

 

No, there is only one bearing. In my opinion a really hokey set-up and I can see why they go out.

That link I gave you in your other post a couple of weeks ago will show you what it looks like. I know that was a Dana-44 but these axles are set-up the same hokey way. Here is the link again. Study it there are a lot of pictures.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=178091

The press you bought should work fine, you could have gotten the same thing with the adapters at Harbor Freight for about thirty dollars. I would bet they are made in the same factory in China.

Another word of advice to you if you are going to be doing the work on your truck. Get a factory service manual (FSM). I got mine off E-bay for ten dollars, it is on a disc and whatever thing I am going to be working I print out.

 

i got adapters for the moog ball joints from rockauto.com for $80 shipped to my door. and this press was $54 with tax as well from princess auto. yes thats like $130 but i plan on keeping my truck forever and ball joints on these usually go every 2 years so i thought i might as well buy the tools

 

There are two tapered roller bearings inside each bearing/hub assembly. The bearings are just a little too close together IMHO.

 

but that gives it the right freeplay? or do we have to adjust the bearings after? do we pack them with grease when we put it all back together?

I also heard some say hub removal is a pain in butt. is there a easy way besides hammering the 4 bolts that hold it?

can a guy just bungee strap the caliper up? or do we have to disconnect barke lines?

 

For the front bearings:
Yes, just bungee up the brakes, I used a metal hook.
Loosen the 4 bolt that hold the bearing assembly in place but do not remove. Leave enough thread to press the bolts without damaging the threads.
Find a solid piece of steel, rod, bar etc and cut it to fit on a bolt head and against the axle housing.
Turn your steering wheel while someone holds the steel piece in place, once snug (move your hands), pull on the steering wheel to press on the bolt. Alternate side to side until you press it out. The first press may be quite slight but look closely for the movement of the assembly.

You may have to start the truck and use the power steering, mine came out without that but took some pretty serious yanking on the steering wheel.

I don't have a picture but if you look at the area and consider these instructions, it should make sense.

Put anti seize on the new hubs for next time.

Cya and good luck.

 

sounds like too much ****. im just going to pay someone to do it lol. thanks

 

Fair enough

It is a bit of a PITA but works pretty slick.

After I took out my old ones, I remover the brake sensor and this exposes the bearing. Has anyone tried adding lubricant to extend the bearing life? I was thinking of adding this to annual maintenance.

Cya

 

I have done tons of these front ends at the shop i work at (mechanic). I use an air chisel with a very sharp tip to separate the bearing hub from the steering knuckle. It takes less than 30 seconds on even the most rusted in hubs. Many front wheel drive cars use a similar setup.

As for the balljoints, you have the proper tools (press + cups). Remove the upper, then the lower. Then install the lower, then the upper. You need to use the hole that the upper is pressed into to remove and replace the lower. The threaded shaft of the press goes through this hole to service the lowers.

 

How thick does this piece of metal need to be??

Thanks!

 

I used a socket extension. It worked pretty well. I screwed around trying to hammer them out until I read on here about the steering method. I was able to do it by myself on the drivers side and it popped right out. If you can afford to have a shop do it I would reccomend it personally. I just spent 2 1/2 days doing my ball joints tie rod ends and axle ujoints. I couldn't afford to pay someone to do it. Personally I don't enjoy this kind of work and it was a real PITA. Not having any guidance other than checking on here I made some mistakes that made it harder. If I ever have to do it again it will probably be alot easier but still not easy.

I'm glas it is over.

Hondo

 

my ball joints just got done 3 weeks agao. $400 for ball joints and tool from rockauto.com and $550 for labor....OUCH but had to. i put MOOG greaseable ones in.

 

I can't afford to pay someone else either.

As for the Tie rod ends, do you know what the part numbers are? I figure I might as well do them while, I have it apart.

Thanks.