Is it normal for grease to be forming a ring around the bearing cups on the front U-joints. Im going to guess that no is the answer since they are "perma-lube" joints. Im curious, because they have been chasing a vibration in the front end, but have said the joints are fine. They have already replaced upper and lower ball joints and a steering stabilizer.

 

How many miles do ya have on your truck? Those non greasable joints don't last too long. I would just swap em out for the greasable ones anyway. Most of the time you can't even tell if they are bad until you take em out and take the bearing caps off.

 

just over 22K on the clock. Who sells greaseable ones for our trucks? I thought I read somewhere that they did for the drive shafts, but not for the axles.

 

bump...!!!

 

Get one of these and grease your "non-greasables" http://www.autozone.com/R,NONAPP8883...ductDetail.htm And you're right there are no greasable replacements for the front axles. Who need them anyways? Non-greasables are stronger.

 

Stupid question.How does that tool work on a front non lubing joint?

 

What are you guys talking about? Precision #464 u-joints are greasable and fit our front axles. Rockauto has them for $36. I have them on my truck.

 

I was thinking the same thing. I bought a set of them about a year ago but haven't found enough motivation to install them yet. (only pops and cracks in 4wd) The whole "non greasable ones are stronger" thing is trivial. Unless your sled pulling your probably not going to break an axle joint. And who cares how strong the non greasable ones are when you have to replace them every year when the needles disappear? (already been through that with the rear driveshaft)

 

Do you have the part numbers for the rest of the U-joints?? I figure that if im gonna pull the front end apart, im gonna buy all the parts to change everything out. Moog ball joints, tie rod ends, u-joints, ect...

 

Here are the numbers I found on a different thread. I bought them all about a year ago, but just put the font ones on a few weeks ago, so I can’t testify for any but the #464. I figured I wanted some on hand in case the stockers left town.

The #464s have much more meat to them than the stockers.


Rear driveshaft 2 Piece precision (takes 3) Precision #295
Front driveshaft Cardan H joint (takes 2) Precision #232
Front driveshaft @ front axle (takes 1) Precision #235
Front Axle U joints LEFT AND RIGHT (takes 2) #464


These guys have a pretty good online catalog.

http://www.rockauto.com/

 

I appreciate it! Im gonna guess that the two piece driveshaft is for a long bed?

 

yes, and auto and manual transmissions use different part #'s according to the book for some reason. I guess it makes sense to someone at Dodge to stock twice the number of parts, not me.

 

When ever you use the greaseable u-joints use a water resistant grease and the joints will last years, same for tie rod and ball joints. Water is what ruins all the joints. I have a old beater Nissan truck from 85 with all original joints and bearings in them from using water resistant grease, and I just turned over 200,000 miles on it.

 

If they are not Spicer U-joints or better they ain't going in my truck. Spicer joints are the best in my opinion.

 

It looks like a needle that you slide in between the rubber o-ring and joint to inject the grease. So you'll give all the cups a shot on each joint.

Don't know how great it works and if it gets the grease into the needle bearings or not.