Hello all, been a while since I been on here, so here's an update... I have a BABIED '05 with only 29,000 on the clock. Started having the 1-2 shift shudder prob, changed the solenoid and installed a new filter while at it, fluid looked good, bolted everything back up, and solved the shift shudder. My other problem is my truck always had a funky 3-4 shift. Its never a solid 1 step shift, it always feels like a 2-3 step shift especially if your on it half throttle or more. This time had my buddy, who is a well known racer in the NHRA and IHRA sportsman series and an excellent mechanic do the recommended band adjustments. First we did the one that can be adjusted from outside of the case. It helped the 1-2 shift a lil more, but not the 3-4 (kind of knew it might not, but didnt feel like dropping the pan again unless I really had to). So, the next weekend, we dropped the pan to adjust the second band adjustment thats inside. This time the fluid was dark brown, smells burnt and just looked completely different than the previous time. When my buddy did both adjustments, he said he really had to keep turning the adjustment screws alot just to start getting tension for the torque wrench to start reading. He said the bands were really out. We went according to all the dealer specs and process.

My next step is to now call a dealer and see what they want to do. My truck is still under warranty until June of this year. All the work I did was in the maintenance schedule book other than the solenoid. I'm really upset to be honest with you about this. Other than the few times towing a race car on an open trailer back and forth to the track, my truck is really babied, sometimes it sits for 2-3 weeks until I get to use it. For my truck with such minimal miles on it, to have these trans issues, is really leaving a bad taste in my mouth!!

Depending on what the dealer tells me, is going to make me decide on keeping it, or fixing it, and than getting rid of it for something else.

Another question is are the new Ram Heavy Duty's (2011 or newer) A better set-up? Did they improve or even replace and put in a better trans? I know the trans has always been the week spot for our trucks, but for mine to be doing this and have burnt fluid at such low milage, is making me want to look elsewhere...

 

Did you put the ATF-4 fluid back in it when serviced?
THe new trucks have a 6 speed auto. I drove one really didnt like it, but the truck had 3:31 gears, apparently many of the new trucks are sitting on the lots with 3:31 gearing... guess its for the grocery getter crowd.
FWIW, I have an 06 model with less than 50K on it. It has had the shutter shift issue since about 20K, idiot dealers couldnt fix it. my 3-4 shift has always felt like a 2 step process as well.
Will be servicing my trans. this weekend for the 1st time, installing some aftermarket parts while Im in there and adjusting the bands.
Good thing is that right now, KBB.com says my truck is worth about $29,500.00!!!!

 

Yes I did put the correct fluid back in. I first called the dealers about my shutter shift problem, and told them about the TSB on it, and they all wanted to pull the Trans, and I was like pull the trans for a friggin solenoid?? Than they wanted to charge me $118 for the part, and I got the same exact Mopar part on-line for $58 delivered! I love my truck, it was the first new vehicle I ever purchased, but for something that claims to be "Heavy Duty" and for me to have these probs like this is not floating well with me at all! If my trans comes out, I will never be happy knowing that. I'm the type of person with my vehicles, I want every stock nut and bolt back in, and not some zip-tie special!! I also looked at KBB too, and my truck still lists for 28k-29k in good to excellent condition, and 23k-24k trade in value, so Im kind of debating what to do. I will take it to a dealer and see what they say.....All I know, Is my buddy just got a 2012 Ford 350, and this truck can pull a 34ft trailer with 2 race cars in it, and still light the tires up, and it rides like a Caddy!!

 

Ok, coule of things you need to think about here. Upgrading to a new truck is always an option as they are really nice, BUT, that comes at a price. The new autos are sweet and when they work they are great. However, they are all electronic with those inherent weaknesses. They are still the same level of build, barely adequate for stock power, over manged and under clutched. If ANYTHING goes wrong in the process they will eat themselves in a hurry and its a lot more expensive to fix than a 48RE. You have about the best of the CTD's in a low mileage 05 with a 5.9 engine. The 6.7 with all its emissions crap and inherent design weaknesses does NOT have as much over engineering. Don't expect warranty to be any better on the newer ones. Fiat corporate has sent down the word, deny all warranty claims at all costs.

Now, to your current truck. The 3-4 shift will almost always feel like a 2 step process. It consists of the 3-4 shift and then lockup. With the soft stock TC and NVH driven line pressures its the way it is. That can be fixed if you want to spend the $$.

The 1-2 shuttle is another symptom of the NVH build and crappy electronics. It can be mitigated and sometimes mostly solved but it is just a side effect of electronics trying to influence a hydraulic shift. FYI, there are better parts than the stock gov solenoid that work much better.

Since the fluid looked good when you swapped the solenoid and now you have issues, it sound slike a mis-adjusted band may be the root of your problems. The rear band is only for reverse and manual first. Unless you feel slipping in those gears an adjustment is almost never needed.

The front band is the problem becuase of engine TQ and its operation\design. If you do not do the adjustment EXACTLY right you will burn it up.

Think about the adjustment you did to it and verify it was as defined, tighten the set set screw to 72 INCH lbs then back it off 1 3/4 turns. VERY IMPORTANT not to over tighten or it will bend the linkage and slip the band on use.

With the miles you have on the truck a few $$ spent on the trans will be a big benefit to fix the factory weaknesses. Don't give up just yet.

 

You have a mechanic buddy that is willing to work on your truck. That's awesome.

Knowing what I know now, if I were in your shoes, I'd beef up what you have.

The pressures the trans runs are too low and it tends to slip. Babying it kind of makes it worse. At least when you put your foot in it the pressures for shifting go up.

I'd drop the trans and install a better torque converter. Figure about $1000 for that, maybe more if you want a super duper one.

Then I'd install a shift kit to clean up some shifting issues and increase pressures. Shift kits are about $80 and your labor. The alternative is to buy a valve body for about $450. If you have the mechanic or if you are willing, a shift kit is a good deal. I did my own and I loved it. Oh, replace the accumulator and the strut while you are there. Super easy and cheap to do. Shame on Dodge for not installing these parts at the factory!

Now if you do spend the time and money to swap the TC and put a kit in it, what do you get? You get a trans that shifts better and tows A LOT better, and will probably last as long as the engine if you change the fluid regularly.

The only difference between your trans and a built up heavy duty unit is very minimal. You can pay $1500 now and have a great trans, or wait for it to die and pay $5,000. The new transmissions aren't that good from what I've been hearing at the rebuild shops.

I got 125K out of mine with just a shift kit, then the TC finally went. And I towed pretty heavy a thousand miles a week.

 

Sounds like someone didn't adjust the bands properly. They have to be perfect.

 

If you want a new truck, then by all means, upgrade. I considered it myself.
I test drove a new Ford and a new Dodge. Contrary to what everybody says, the fuel mileage is NOT there on either the new Dodge or Ford... I have friends that own both and once they quit looking at the dash and put pencil to paper, their fuel mileage is HORRIBLE when pulling, with the Ford being worse than the Dodge.
Right now, the Fords are experiencing major transmission/torque converter issues and exhaust valve failures. I have also heard that Ford is denying HPFP warranty claims. My buddy had the turbo fail on their 2012 F250 @ 4700 miles. Took the dealer almost a month to get it repaired and back to him.
The worst thing about getting rid of an old 5.9L is that you will never be able to go and buy one back...

 

I appreciate the feedback from everybody. As far as adjusting the bands properly, I printed out all the info from this site as far as replacing the solenoid steps, and adjusting the bands. We were literally both under the truck looking at the papers and going through each step the process was telling us to do. I watched him adjust the screw untill he got tension, than tighten it to the correct inch pound, than back off i think it was a quarter turn, whatever the process said, we did so. As far as sinking money into it for a new converter, or valve body etc., I look at it as if its still covered under warranty, I want them to do whatever is in their power first, I know it will most likely be fixed with stock parts. I live in Staten Island New York, and I dont know of any reputable Trans shops that know the in's and outs of these Dodge trannies. If anybody knows of a shop in another state not too far I would be glad to talk to someone. I can not physically do any of the work other than lay under the truck, and watch whats going on. I feel like I did everything I could possibly do according to Mopar's specs and instructions, and without taking alot of money out of my pocket to fix something that should still be working the way it's intended.

 

POORMAN I hear what your saying, The new Ford are nice, in fact everything is nice until it starts malfuntioning! LOL One thing I love about my Dodge is when you open the hood, the simplicity you see compared when you open the hood on all of these new trucks! My truck has been paid of for a year and a half now, and would hate to start another few hundred dollar a month payment for 5 yrs again. I guess maybe Ill see what the dealer would like to do, and get the truck safe and running properly for a while, and do an "envelope of the month" thing and put some money away until I can but some better aftermarket items to beef the trans up.

 

No, it can't be whatever it said it MUST be correct. In reality, the front band should be set by the spacing on the apply rod in the front servo for exact results.

Backing it off a quarter turn will smoke the front band the first time you drive it. From your description, that is exactly what happened, a misadjustment.

Good luck on getting that warrantied unless your dealer is really above and beyond. The trans will have to come out, it will need a new front band and possibly a front drum. While your at it, there are some simple relatively effective remedies that will seriously enhance performance and increase life expectancy.

The trick is going to be finding a shop to do the work.

 

Ok, so if my next step was to purchase some aftermarket trans parts to help beef up the strength and life of my trans, what would any of you fellow members recommend, and of coarse, without breaking the bank!! I always thought my truck could use a tighter converter, many instances where I needed a quick launch, and my butt puckered cause I couldn't move any faster!! Anybody have specific brands that are good for the money? Also what about valve body's and specific clutch bands too? I dont need something that can enter a pulling contest once its done, but would be nice to have a good reliable powertrain that I know can go 100k or more without a prob. The way I drive betwwn my other vehicles, if it took me over 5 yrs to put on 29k, this truck might out live me!! I'm still gonna see what my warranty will do, but any ideas for the future are always good.

Thanks again people, I still have to say this is a great site to keep in touch with other members for helpful advice and friendly people!!

 

Goerand probably has th bets converter out there you can customize to needs. You don't need a monster triple disk so a good solid single disk TC with a stall around 1700 rpms and an efficiency at 85-88% would work well.

If you replace the fornt band get a rigid band so you can quit worrying. The TQ and constant shifting when your in a metro area KILLS the flex bands in a hurry.

To the TC add a billet fornt servo, billet accumulator, billet band strut and anchor, then a VB or shift kit depending on what you want to spend. A shift kit is $70 while a VB is $400 plus and there is little difference from the two other than replacing all the parts on it you probably don't need. That is dependent on finding somebody to instal the shift kit or wanting to tackle it yourself.

 

Goerend is definitely the place to go. If nothing else, you can purchase the parts thru them and ahve a local TRUSTWORTHY trans. shop install them for ya.
When mine gives it up, it will get crated up and sent to him for a complete build. ( I dont drive it very often, so I can afford to wait several weeks on it)
For years, I have been scanning these forums waiting to see if anyone ever develops the parts needed to put the 6 speed auto behind the 5.9L engines..!!!

 

Awesome advice... Sounds like what I said!

You can replace the front band without taking the trans apart, but you can't get the really good band no_6 is talking about. You can put in the strut, servo and accumulator in your driveway, along with the shift kit. To do the TC you have to drop the trans.

See what the dealer will do, but keep in mind you can do what we recommend and have a pretty dang good trans for a lot of miles.

 

Your best bet is an Ally and spend the $$ to upgrade it. Its not a racer but it will pull and the gear ratios are not bad. The worst part was having to use a lighter t-case but I think that has been solved.

There is just so little difference between the Ally and the 68RFE that if you really want a 6 speed it is doable.