Noticed a transmission fluid leak thats growing worse... so much so... the temp gauge spiked above its normal range yesterday & at one point while sitting at a stop light, swore I noticed light smoke coming from the front grill. The Water level checked out fine so I suspect the smoke was coming from trans-fluid leaking on the hot trans-cooler...

Depending if the trucks parked level or on an incline, there's usually a large pancake sized puddle or two greeting me in the morning after the trucks sat overnight. After climbing underneath the front end, I noticed trans-fluid dripping at a rate of 7 to 8 seconds from the bottom right & left corners of the radiator. Been adding 'bout 1/2qt of fluid once a weeks for a month now since I can't seem to locate the leak Could I get so lucky to learn this is just a loose clamp or has my trans-cooler finally given out? Trucks comming up on 90k and I'm surprised the trans-cooler would be shot already!? Are the '03 trans-coolers known to be problematic? Would hate to tear into the trans-cooler only to learn it might be something simple(?) Posted some pics of the leak in hope somone on DTR has seen this before...

 

***bump***

 

the lines in your pics are the power steering/brake cooler lines I think. The trans lines are up higher just below the pipe from intercooler to the intake horn. I you open the hood and look from the front of the truck just below the tube you will see the lines. If they are the ones leaking I just fixed mine. The fuel line/ac line removeal tools work awsome but get the metal ones the plastic wont like the grit and crud that collects in those fittings. I removed the 2 lines were leaking where the rubber line is crimped onto the coupler. I could turn the hose on the metal coupler where it was crimped. I cut around the coller just deep enough to cut through the coller and not into the rubber hose. Then I cut length ways down the coller to split it to get the coller off. Once the coller is off the hose will pull off and the last part off the coller will come off leaveing you with just the connector. I then took a small deep socket with an OD close to the ID of the coupler and tapped it inside the pipe to push out the deformations from the factory crimping and used a body hammer to tap out as much of the crimp I could with the socket still inside the tube. I then cut a piece of 1/2" "Push Lock" hose, make sure you check to cut it the correct size because once ya push it on you can't pull it off I tried . I then put on 2 clamps at each end just to make sure because they do have pressure in them. Do the longest one first then if you oops like I did you can use whats left to do the short one . There is abit of a hose barb knerle at the end of the metal fittings. Wash the ends to flush out the grit and grime from behind the spring locks and snap them back in. Takeing out the plastic inner fender makes getting at them not bad but still a pain. This has been working for about 1 month so far and no sign of any leak yet. And if it did fail you can still put a factory hose back on because the cooler ends on the truck aren't altered.
Sorry about the long post but tried to explain it best I can cause I didn't take any pics

 

Ya the ATF drips are falling from the bottom passenger side and driver side corners of the radiator... the power steering/brake cooler lines were hard to avoid in the shots. If I get a chance, I'll try and take a closer shot (w/out the ps & brake lines confusing anyone) so others can see how a trans coolant line leak might look.

So what's the reason you went with "push-lock"... are the OEM lines outrageous? (As if I had to ask ). Who carries "push-lock"... I've heard of it, just never seen it for sale on a shelf anywhere(?)

Thanks!

 

Is this the removal tool you're referring to?

 

the removal tools I got are these ones http://www.princessauto.com/tools/au...tool-set?pop=0 but you can probly get simular ones any where and I did see the one you posted. The ones I got worked awsome about 5 mins to take both lines off once I got to them . I used the push lock hose cause I could get it near by and it is the same as what was used on my FASS fuel system. You have to make sure the hose you use is good for transmision lines, has to be able to take the heat, oil and pressure. The stuff I used has a working pressure of 300 psi ( if I remember correctly). I didn't check with the ******* near here on a price for the lines but would think they would be higher. It cost about $25 for the new parts.

 

Interesting side note...

Trucks transmission cooler "pressure" hose (50010185AB) via the dealer is going for $97 ...and go figure... its on a 3-4 week backorder But the transmission cooler "return" hose (55056419AB) is in stock... they had 5 of those on hand.

BTW... found out 1/2" blue "push-lock" is only rated to 250psi & is NOT hydraulic compliant I actually have a 5 foot section of it hanging in the shop I can hear it calling me in the night... tempting me to take a chance on it

 

Finally got around to fixing the trans coolant pressure hose and all is well.

Really appreciate the help!

 

Thought I was out of the woods after replacing the inlet trans cooler hose... unfortunately I'm still seeing the ATF drips at both bottom corners of the radiator While repalcing the inlet trans hose, I decided to pull the trans cooler & pressure test it... thankfully there were no leaks!

So, now I'm thinking there's a hole in the power steering cooler that's causing the drips to appear on the radiator From what I can tell so far, the power steering pump itself doesn't appear to be leaking.