First question, Going to be changing the fluid, guess ill stick with ATF+4 unless theres something better to consider...
When changing the filter, do I need to flush the system, or could I change the fluid in the pan, swap the filter, then top it off, then drain once more, and top it off to change out more fluid from the system?
Or is there another easy way to flush it?

2nd question is a multipart...
Still havent decided if ill get an aftermarket pan, or just tap the stock pan...
Maybe if you guys have any suggestions. Is the deeper pan worth the money for a few extra quarts?

Also, ive heard that its better to tap the line going to the cooler for more accurate trans temps vs tapping the pan, BUT would using the test port on the side of the trans be better than the pan? But still close to being as good as the line to the cooler?
Id just like to get a good accurate reading on the temps for longevity.

TIA guys

 

ATF +4 is what to use. I just did mine Saturday and I used valvoline ATF+4 which is about $3.50qt ($1.50 cheaper than the mopar stuff). You don't need to flush just drain it and change the filter then refill with 7qts and you are done. You can flush it, but you really need a shop with a machine to do it if you want it flushed the right way. Just changing the fluid and filter is fine though.

 

Cool, thanks marc


Any input on the sensor location? inline to the cooler vs. test port on side of trans?

 

personaly I am going to put mine in the hot line.

 

Ill probably do the same, havent decided between the dieselmanor $65 pipe, or the $10 "Tee" from Geno's....

 

I used the B&M drain plug and put my sender in the side of the pan. It reads 140-160 running empty depending on the ambient temps. I like having the ability to now drain the pan before dropping it.

I wouldn't use the test ports as none of them will ALWAYS have fluid flowing in all of the forward and reverse gears.

 

Don't be cheap, get the line from Diesel Manor!

http://www.dieselmanor.com/dm_products/DM-CLG3.asp

 

Off topic kinda, but how important are the band adjustments on these trannies? Are they bs or should they be done at certain mile intervals? Is there instructions for doing this procedure available? Thanks!

 

I used the one from massdiesel performance (www.massdiesel.com I think) - he just sent me a brand new cooler line with the fittings already installed, a very slick setup. No leaks or problems in 30k miles, and we just had the trans flushed by the dealer. Only question I have at the moment is, it seems to be running higher trans temps now. I'm not sure if it's the weather (105+ in Maryland at the moment) or the flush. Anyone have any ideas?

 

The best way to "flush" a tranny is to drain it, change the filter then fill it back up. Drive the truck for week or so and drain it again, leave the filter of course, and put another 7 quarts in it. It's much easier obviously to put a drain plug in the pan when you have it off the first time, but I'm ****-retentive and I'll pull the whole **** pan off again, clean the magnet, then replace and refill. I do the same with my motor (minus taking off the pan of course ). I'll do a "short change" every once and awhile to clean everything out good. It's awfully cheap to do, and the motor oil is done in a matter of minutes.

This might be interesting for you guys. I like others have had the oil turn black pretty quick after changing it. Well I did a "short change" about 1000 miles ago and my oil looks like I just put it in. When I did the change the oil had about 300 miles on it and it was black as coal. Now the new Rotella has about 1k miles on it and it's clean as can be....something to think about. However the local oil return joint thinks I'm running an oil change service Now I'll change it every 3k for awhile, then in about 1 year, I'll do another "short change".

 

...that being said....I LOVE to crawl under my baby and get dirty, some people dred it....to each his own I guess.