Friday was the coldest day we have had yet a the south Jersey shore, it was 25 when I tried to leave work and the truck would not start. I went back on Saturday and plugged it in to my generator for about an hour, then it started right up. Now I am packing the generator in the back seat.

When colder than about 40 it has been taking several long crank sessions to start, this has been going on since it started to get cold. I've been plugging it in at home and it's been warm enough to start after work.

I added fuel treatment

I took it to the dealer (not mine they closed) and they said it might be the lift pump, but that the flash they did might fix it. It didn't.

It's a 2004 2500, there are no mods to the truck and it has 81k on it.

--- Symptoms, this is a bit of a review of other threads on the subject

Starts when warm

Does not start as fast as when new but in about 4-5 cranks when warm

No smoke while cranking

Fuel in filter bowl – it did not spray out but filled fairly quickly

Runs well – no smoke – power – smooth idle

Does not seem to be making oil; I changed the oil recently, it still looks good, is viscous, smells like oil, and is not over the full mark

I get continuity threw the grid, the grid light comes on (longer now with the flash) and I hear the relays when it light turns off


This sounds like my problem; failing stock lift pump on the filter housing.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/few-stupid-questions-04-ram-5-9-t239018.html?&highlight=long+crank[/URL]

I'm thinking of replacing with the part from Geno's because it sounds easy and I don't have time or weather to drop the tank. I might go for an AirDogII if I don't have to drop the tank, I think I can handle that now.

I am not clear on what temperature has to do with this. What do you think?

Thanks for taking the time to read this!

I will look at what you have to say and do something tomorrow because I need the truck.

 

I didn't read your whole post, but are you sure your grid heaters are working

 

Geez, my bobcat will start at those temps without glow plugs, something isn't right. I don't want to sound alarmist but compression and fuel are the key to a diesel firing. Your mileage suggests compression should be OK unless you have head issues so I would look to fuel supply, rail pressure? Relief valve stuck open? Maybe someone else can help more.

 

This sounds like a symptom of injector failure. If the failure is internal in the ball and seat area of the injector I don't believe that you will make oil, just bleed off injector pressure and cause a hard start.

 

I agree with gear jammer, mine was harder to start before I had the injectors replaced. When starting cold is there white smoke?

 

Pony Motor LOL.

I was expectiing something D10 or up.

 

Batteries?????

 

There is no smoke and once started it runs well. It does not smoke (much) when I trump on the peddle going down the road.

The batteries are the originals, still showing green dots. There was a little acid on the grounds. I cleaned them up and put a little die-electric grease on them. They crank her over well.

There is noise coming from the filter housing that was not there before.

 

Well if it starts good when it's warm.... I'd say the grid isn't heating like it should.

Are the lights dimming when that grid turns on? Have you tried cycling the grid 2 or 3 times to see if that helps? I'm sure you could check amperage draw to verify the grid is heating. Just having continuity doesn't insure the grid is working.

If it is working, could there be a leak in the intake after the grid? If all those things check out, then I'd look for bad injectors (not spraying a fine mist of fuel), bad pump (not enough pressure to spray a fine mist of fuel) or compression (not enough pressure to create heat to ignite the fuel).

 

I have tried cycling the grid a few times and it does not make a difference. I do see power draw when the grid is on, seen on the gauge and the internal lights. There is a clicking noise that could be a high voltage arc, like a fencer shorting, but it is happening even after the grid light goes out. I like the grid heater idea my self but much discussion in other staring problem threads leads me to believe that it should start without it.

I think that pressure is probable fine because when it is not too cold I have been able to start it buy cranking it a long time. But that might also be working around a fuel problem.

I meant to bring my hot air gun so I could warm up the lift pump only. I think the little thing is getting arthritic and does not work well when it's cold.

The issue of not starting hot or cold is very complex and difficult to diagnose I see from all the threads on the subject.

 

I'll put the airdog 100 I just ordered on and at least that will eliminate the lift pump as an issue. I sure hope that does fix it!

 

My truck will start immediately without waiting for the grid heater to warm up when it is zero out and with the truck sitting outside. So I really doubt that it is a grid heater problem.

 

if the batteries are original(2003 or 2004) change them out green dot or no. had one once with green dot cheerfully showing at >9 volts
Clark

 

I agree, green dot don't mean squat. A battery tester is the only way to fly.

Sounds like injector though.

 

Power cycle your truck a couple times. Turn it on until the grid heater light turns off, turn off the truck and do a slow 5 count, turn it back on and try to start it. This way you can listen to the LP and also verify the grid heater is working with a digital temp gun.

You'll need some help doing it, but this should help you reduce your troubleshooting steps.


-K