I believe that www.southwestwheels.com has a link to adapters to take your 8-lugs to 10-lugs and 19.5's or 22's. They also have a link to some real nice fiberglass fenders that have an additional couple inches of flare to accomodate the spacers, etc.

I have in years past done the SRW to DRW on a couple trucks, got my stuff from Arrowcraft, the also have quality kits used by many for many years.

I believe I spent close to $2K then doing the changes, probably at least $3K now, well worth the cost vrs taking severak $K loss on a trade or sale and then spending several $K on a new vehicle.

It does all depend on how you see it. I have been stopped in a DOT check with my Ford that has the SRW to DRW conversion, I was pulling a heavily loaded GN flatbed, the DOT guy read my sidewalls on my tires, did some quick math, said to me all OK you can go, he never looked at the sticker inside my door, went entirely by my registration and tires.

In New Mexico you can register any gross you feel like paying for up to a point in the overall class of your truck, probably the same in other states when you do your licensing. I always buy a class-up, rather pay a little more every year than the much higher fine.

If I decided to get rid of my Ford dually, which would put me down to 1 truck around the place, I would think long and hard about buying another truck, it would be more cost effective to conver the SRW I currently have. In fact, I would do it way before buying another new truck and loosing my 5.9 that I have now.

As far as a bed change goes - there are some real nice flatbeds that are less costly than a replacement Dodge bed or the fiberglass fenders. I put a Bradford on my Ford, best truck bed I have ever had. My Ford/Bradford bed is 8' long and 8' wide. A MegaCab could actually have an 8' bed width wise and still have a nice toolbox in front of the GN ball.

CD

 

I came across the same issue when 'bolting' up the flares. My body shop guy decided it better to notch the wheel liners vs. cutting the bed to look like this picture. It came out clean and unnoticeable when standing outside the truck. Only when you peek your head underneath in the wheel well that you'll notice the cutout.

Again - I regret not being able to find a dually bed to match my truck color. It would have been much less work and would have saved some $ I'm sure.

 

ok so i have read all the post on this subject an have just a couple of questions. but the info for my situation first. 06 Q-cab 4dr 4x4 swr 6sp

i am going to be building a very custom flatbed for the truck so the bed issue isn't a problem.

1st Q

is the rear axle actually diff in width and would it really matter 1 inch one way or the other?

2nd Q

the front needs to be converted to accept the rims this way you do not need to carry two diff spares, right?

i just want the stability not really carrying super heavy loads just a welder and assorted tools ALL THE TIME and i would like it to be more stable. i am installing a larger sway bar and already have airbags.

 

The overall width from mounting face to mounting face is wider. This is done so the dually tires don't rub the leaf spring and/or frame.

Correct. The conversion is merely a bolt-on OEM spacer. The dually front axle is identical to a SRW front axle --- except for these bolt on hub spacers.

 

A dually axle is 3 inches wider then a SRW. I switched from a DRW to a SRW. went with 19.5's and each tire is rated for 4640lbs.... Looks better to.

 

want to sell your front spacers?

is there really no more than 1.5 inches from my tire to the leafs? i never really payed any attention.