Well, I'm another one that got bit in the ****. 2 of em need an easy out, but I want to get them un-stuck so I don't snap an easy out, or twist a screw off in the CP3. What methods have you guys/gals used? I was thinking a punch and hammer.

 

I used a piece of steel stock and tapped the outside edges of the screw, not the face of it. I hit it a few times along the edges, it came right out.

Don't go crazy.

 

I'd use my Dremel to cut a slot that used screw driver. Then I used stainless steel screws with Alan Head apply anti seize

 

are the heads of the screw broke off? or is just the torx stripped out.

 

Heck, when I did mine, i ruined every T25 that Lowe's had before I hit it a few times. Bolts looked brand new.

 

Use a heat gun and heat the boss housing around the screws, they have loctite on them. Once heated they come right out.

 

Torx is stripped.

 

Can you get a vise grips in there to loosen them? Just clamp on the head of the screw.

 

if vice grips fail:

i work on heavy equipment along with other things, i have problems with the 4 allen bolts that hold on hose flanges, once in a while the allen hole is rusted out. i try to tap in something bigger, if all else fails i cut the head off carefully with a cut off wheel, pull the part off, the screw/bolt screws out with pliers 99% of the time.

 

I got em out. I'll let you guess which hole this screw come out of.

 

In the tights spot

 

That was pretty good.

Yeah, more or less, but it had to be the bottom screw.

 

good job, why did you take if off?

 

I was getting really bad injector rattle. Sometimes it was at idle, sometimes when I got the rpm up to 2200, and once in a while it did it no matter where the rpm was. Since I changed it, rattle went away, throttle response got better as did power output. BTW, I'm talking about the FCA, not the screw.

 

when i bought mine 3 months ago it sounded weird at idle when cold.
sence then i had a no start issue and the FCA code. changing the FCA made it run sweet but 2 days later it would not start again.

injectors fixed that, had 1 bad one.

i added a rail pressure gauge so if it returns i will have a cool tool to help isolate the problem. i think the rail pressure was going up and down causing a loud then quite idle.