My 06 5.9 has scored rocker arms, dodge said it's normal , metal scoring at 35k can't be good. right?

 

That CJ oil.

 

No, it's not good.

Mine were scored badly at 50k miles as well. Cylinder 3 was so bad that you couldn't even move the trunion by hand!

I don't think CJ is the problem...sure it doesn't help, but my problem occured before the CJ days.

I believe most of the wear occurs upon startup. There's a reasonably good oil system on these engines, but the trunions and rockers are the last in the path. Using a mechanical gauge, sometimes it takes 20 seconds for oil pressure to even register...and that's using a 5w-40 synthetic!

--Eric

 

Wow. That is the second time that I have heard that. Kinda scary. I'm afraid to check mine now.

 

Thanks for the replies. Not so sure I should have sold my 12 valve. I really like the truck, but my piece of mind not there! What is CJ oil? So Eric, what did you do with your scored rocker arms? Craig

 

Just do a search and type in CJ4 oil. Make sure you have about 2 days of free time to read it all.

 

I smoothed them up a little with some 220 grit sandpaper until they would turn freely.

As a long-term fix, I'm just finishing designing a bullet-proof pre and post oiling system that should last the life of the truck. This will completely eliminate dry startup, and should really help extend the life of the rockers.

In the short term, I need to pull the rockers off again and inspect. The wear I saw happened while running the stock valve springs. With the higher spring pressure of the F1 springs, I expect wear could be accelerated...for those who are running the Hamilton springs, I expect wear could be GREATLY accelerated.

--Eric

 

fill us in on this oiling system Eric (if you can). I am interested

 

Kinda wondering if this would work well with a bmk-11.

http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/amk.aspx

looks cool, kinda $$$$ though

 

I really like most of Amsoil's stuff, but this product just doesn't seem to cut the mustard to me. Straight from their site:

"Upon turning the ignition key to the on position, up to 160 cc’s (5.4 oz.) of oil are discharged from the reservoir to engine surfaces, building oil pressure and providing vital lubrication."

The 160cc of oil is only 1/3 of a pint, or about 10 tablespoons. I was going to purchase this kit until I did a little calculating on the quantities, and researched the oil passages of our engines.

You can trace the oil feed from the head, through the rocker pedastal, around the rocker shaft bolts, diagonally through the trunions, through the annular region on each end of the trunion, through the end bores of the rockers, and then out through the swivel cap that rides on the crosshead.

There are 12 rockers that need oil, and for each rocker, the oil is again split 2 ways to the trunions. I seriously doubt that 10 tablespoons of oil can be fed through the block, through the head passages, and then be split 24 times and still provide any measurable about of oil to the rocker/trunion interface. Not to mention, a lot of trucks are running bypass oil filters that would more than swallow that entire 160cc alone!

The system I put together uses the best of everything I could find. The pump is aerospace/military grade with dual ball bearings and spur gear design with awesome specs.

I made my own electronics circuit that allows you the option of:

• User adjustable pre-lube time from 1 second to 60 seconds
• User adjustable post-lube time from 1 second to 60 minutes
• Switch to manually turn the lube pump on anytime you wish
• Circuitry allows the pre-lube pump to begin to pump oil for preset time as soon as the ignition is turned to the "on" position
• Circuitry allows the pump to provide lubrication after shutdown for the preset length of time
• Using the post-oiler means you don't have to leave the truck running to wait for the turbo to cool
• After changing oil, you can deliver full oil pressure to the entire engine before starting
• An LED in cab light indicates when the pump is on
• A switch allows you to select "automatic" oiling using the preset times, or "manual" for activation with a switch

All the electronics are enclosed within a waterproof and dust proof enclosure that can be mounted in the engine bay or whereever is convenient.

The hoses are reinforced heavy duty hydraulic hose.

Pre-lubing the engine eliminates dry start, allows easier cranking due to a pre-lubricated rotating assembly, and saves fuel because the engine can be shut down immediately while oil continues to circulate through the turbo bearings.

I anticipated selling these systems as a kit, but I'm not sure if there would be any interest due to the price. I went with the best pump and electronic components I could find, and went with quality items elsewhere as well.

I'm not sure I'm allowed to talk in an open forum here about selling the kits or pricing though as I'm not a paying vendor or anything...just a regular guy with a passion for trucks.

--Eric

 

I had a pre/post luber on a big block I built about 10 years ago. It was nice to see the oil psi up to operating specs before turning over the beast. I have thought about doing the same thing on my CTD.

but you are correct, I would not chat about the selling of these on the open forum til you chat with Lary about becoming a sponsor.