I hate to start another thread on transmissions but I need a little advice and opinions. I would like to change out my ATF fluid to fully synthetic. The truck has 92K (06 dodge 3500). Best I can tell it has never been changed. I have owned it a few weeks. Here are some things I have been told at the lube shop and parts house. Don’t flush the fluid out, just pull the pan and change filter and add about 5 qts. Lube shop says they have a machine that will run off the pump in the tranny and exchange the fluid without the hazards of a flush. Parts house man says he worked in transmission shop and they stopped using one of those machines because it pulled particles off the bands and caused problems. I don’t see how I can go with a syn fluid if all the fluid cannot be gotten out of the tranny by some method. I am just about to choose the first suggestion and drop the pan and change filter and use the dodge OEM recommendation. Also, what about the transfer case fluid? And diffs? Does the same fluid that’s in the tranny go through the torque converter? My tranny is not given any problems and I want to do the best I can to keep it that way. My camper is 11K, and the truck will be used mostly just to pull it.
Thanks
JJ

 

I also have an 06 with 90k. I also read the stuff here on this site religiously and am scared to death of toasting this trans- it does seem to be the weak link in these trucks (along with the steering components). After poring through this site, and asking around at local shops with mechanics whom I trust, this is what I've chosen to do: Drop pan and change fluid (replacing with ATF+4) and filter every 25k. Excessive? Maybe to some, but I feel it's cheap insurance. I also this last time replaced the governor pressure sensor/transducer and solenoid & checked the bands.
I too didn't like what I heard about the "flush", so I've chosen to go with the above.
As far as the other fluids, I just go with the stuff recommended by Dodge, nothing special.

 

I recently asked my dealer to do the recommended trans service (drop pan, adjust bands, replace fluid that was removed when the pan was dropped.

They said their recommendation was leave the bands alone, don't drop pan, but change all fluid with a transmission flush machine that would get all the fluid out including what's in the torque converter. they also said they would add a "seal conditioner".

129k on the trans and its the first service I've had done to it. since it was not slipping, or had any problems with shifting it made sense to me not to mess with adjusting the bands, but it did make sense to replace the fluid.

they thought the filter would be fine.

 

A fluid exchange is a safe method to replace the fluid, especially if it has not been changed since 06. However, I recommend you at least drop the pan and change the 6 quarts and filter at this time. And yes! The ATF+4 fluid in the transmission does circulate through the torque converter. The factory pan gasket can be used again.The correct fluid specified for the transmission is ATF+4 which is considered synthetic, so no need to buy a group IV or V synthetic fluid and fret over getting it all out.

The transfer case takes ATF+4 fluid as well; however, the case is separate;therefore,the fluid does not mix with the transmission fluid at all.

As far as differentials go, AAM calls for 75w/90 GL-5 differential fluid. The rear 11.5 will take 122 oz. or 3.8 quarts and the front 9.25 will take 76 oz. or 2.375 quarts. Therefore,you will need 7 quarts and the Valvoline fluid is highly regarded by forum members.

 

I wouldn't flush. I would drop the pan and change fluid and filter. Use ATF+4 in the tranny and Tcase. You can do the tranny every 30k to regularly cycle out the fluid.

For the diffs the manual specs 75w90. Lots of guys towing heavy regularly have bumped up to 140w but I'm not suggesting either way, just throwing that info out so you're aware and think about it.

 

You mention that the transmission fluid has not been changed since new. Given that information, I would consider a fluid exchange by way of the return line. The other option would be the method of dropping the pan and replacing 6 quarts or so and the filter. Neither of these methods is invasive, however; a flush would be.

 

I don't think I'd mess with the bands.

I did. I have a new trans now.

O think the spec is wrong for adjusting them. There. I said it.

The solenoid and the pressure sensor are easy to replace and they are a known weak point. I'd replace them.

If you really love your trans, replace the valve body and the torque converter and put in a billet strut and servos. Bump the pressure more with one of those fooler things and it will probably outlast the engine.

 

I agree Lost Lake. I wouldn't adjust the bands if the truck is shifting fine. I did not adjust mine as I didn't want to take the chance if resetting them wrong. If it ain't broke...

 

I do a fluid exchange (24 quarts) double deep pan, new filter and adjust the bands every 30k miles, the inside of my trany at 113k looks and acts brand new, I use valvoline synthetic atf+4 $4 bucks a quart at walmart last change. I do tow my 36ft 5th wheel lots so I take care of the trany.

 

The truck has 140K on it now. Changed the fuid at 35K and 90K.
No issues, never touched the bands. Drop pan, new filter, fill pan, disconnect the return line on the back end of the trans, set park brake, hold brake, then run thru the gears, you will see the fluid stream cough, shut it down. Usually get 13-14 quarts in it. Vavoline ATF+4.

 

I just did mine a couple of weeks ago - I was having issues with the Governor pressure solenoind and sensor. Really easy fix. I did not flush the trans or do an exchange either, just the fluid in the pan. I'll do it again in 25k. While you're in there, add a drain plug so it's easier next time.

 

This thread got me thinking, so I checked the book, 50L since last change, so it is time. The fluid is still read but starting to turn brown, smells fine. So changed this morning. New filter, poured in 6 quarts, loosened the return line, take one of the old quart containers and cut an x in it 2"x 2" about an inch from the bottom, slip this over the line, the line will pinch it against the trans, then set a 5 gallon bucket under it. Start it up go thru the gears a few times then put in neutral and watch, you will have a nice garden hose size stream, when the stream goes to a trickle shut it off. She took 13.5 quarts to fill. Also the bottom of my pan says to use the re-usable gasket which is the hard gasket that was factory installed not the rubber flexible one that comes with the new filter.

 

Guys,

I've been using Valvoline ATF+4 in my 48RE transmission when I change the pan oil. Valvoline ATF+4 in Northern California runs about $7 a quart. I went to Walmart to see if they had the same, at the $4 price. All I was able to find was a Walmart brand called "SuperTech ATF+4" at $4 ish a quart.

Is SuperTech a Valvoline product? Would anyone recommend using it instead of Valvoline. I'm all about saving money, but not willing to bet my transmission's health on it. Thanks....

 

Napa products are made by vavoline, may be a little cheaper.

 

All ATF+4 fluid is and has to be Licensed by Chrysler.Look on back the bottle and You will see where it says licensed by Chrysler or something like that.Google ATF+4 and you will answer Your questions.