My truck starts fine, except after it's sat all night, then it'll run rough, white smoke until I hold the RPM above 1000 for a quarter minute. After that, it runs great. I've been battling the one injector for over a year, now just getting around to finding out which one. Doh!!!

 

and I agree on the cam, I would love to change mine!

 

I got on it as hard as I did before, this time the EGT pegged out @ 1100 (imagine still got a little carbon to burn out). Before it pegged out at 1300 (ouch). Throttle response is better to.

 

Thank you Carl48 for all your advice. My mechanical knowledge is limited with these diesel trucks. Its only my second diesel and my first was a 97 and never had any problems with it, so i didn't get the chance to expand on my mechanical knowledge with that one. After having this one for over two years, then this. I have heard of the leak down test, but I don't know how to perform it. I buddy of mine is having the same problem. His is an 03 though. Funny thing is, he looks at me for advice and its the blind leading the blind. Thanks for all your time. One thing for sure, i am getting the filter. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to get that fuel filter from? Considering quality and price? Thanks!

 

this will fix the filter i will try to post a link to show the leakdown test
we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.

the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed
jason the cp3 will put out full power with input pressure from 22 psi to a minus 5 psi. this is from Bosch recommended speck. Bosch told Chrysler not to go above 5 microns on the filter because of wear. you have a 10 micron filter. the larger cr engines and the 5.9 industrial use 2 micron filters we run a fleet of dodges and the first 03 we got had all kinds of problems with the injectors. Bosch worked with us to find the problem. once we started using the new filter setup we have never had another problem. i stock a huge amount of filters for my equipment and to start with i used what i had in stock and modified a cheap steel base to accept the filter i wanted to use. over the last 8 years we have refined our selection to two filters and found bases that cost more but do not require lathe work. we have it down now to a one hour total time to build and install cost even with the expensive bases is about $120. you will never have to replace the stock filter and depending where you get your fuel you can get up to 200,000 miles between filter change. i can send old pix of installs before we settled on the two we now use. i have one pix of the new bases on a 03 and when it becomes time to change i will replace with the two new. email me your email address to ckjr48@aol.com and i will send pix and instructions
these are old pix some date back to 03. most of mine i use a cheap steel base as shown on a new install on a 06 before cleanup but i have to cut new threads on my lathe to fit the filter. the parts listed are plug and play. the pix using the base listed was installed on the 03. none of the pix show the filters used now. we standardized to the two listed in 06. there are pix of where the two bolts are, both the single seat and double seat are shown. a one plate pix home made plate is shown but took all day with mill and lathe to make. we have it down now to one hour total time to build and install and that includes time rounding up parts. to drill the holes i made a template out of cardboard and keep it for the next one. your first one will take about two hours because you will have to keep holding things in place before mounting to make sure of clearance.
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YouTube - Dodge Ram/Cummins 5.9L High Pressure Common Rail Diesel Engine Part 1 of 4

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Umm, you attempted and succeeded at hijacking my thread. This has nothing to do with ohm testing injectors.

 

Carl48 thank you for that write up. I was looking at the filter systems but the one I saw goes mounted next to the intake horn. So then I was thinking of doing the same thing, mounting it under the truck. Thank you for your time!

P.S. If you and I both, had this system on our trucks, we probably would'nt need to know how to OHM our injectors...?

 

i apologize i tried my best to keep it ohms i will not post other than ohms on this post. i did think what i posted would be helpful to you if the ohm test was good.

 

UPDATE: When I first started, I had a code of P2149 come up. I replaced the valve cover gasket. Still had the same problem. I cleaned out the crank sensor, and the truck ran better but would not rev up normally. I thought it was a timing issue so I replaced the crank sensor. Still had the problem and code. I ohm tested the injectors and all were between 0.9 and 1.0 except for the #4 injector with ohm tested at 56.8. So with much help to all other posts, I changed the injector this past weekend. Now, it was not hard, but I still had a boot on from an accident so it took a little longer than I would have expected, but when it was all said and done, it took about 3 hours. Started the truck and all worked just fine. Thanks for everyones advice!