New springs, new ball joints, new shocks...odd feeling
Thanks.
Checked the track bar, ball joints, tie rod ends, steering shaft, Wheel bearing hubs, axle u-joints,steering brace bearing and upper & lower control arm bushings. Everything appears tight. Readjusted caster from max to factory setting and adjusted toe to 1/16" . Took truck for short ride and it drives much better but low speed clunk is still there. Plan on taking it out for a longer ride in the morning.
Thanks for everyone's help
Steve
Checked the track bar, ball joints, tie rod ends, steering shaft, Wheel bearing hubs, axle u-joints,steering brace bearing and upper & lower control arm bushings. Everything appears tight. Readjusted caster from max to factory setting and adjusted toe to 1/16" . Took truck for short ride and it drives much better but low speed clunk is still there. Plan on taking it out for a longer ride in the morning.
Thanks for everyone's help
Steve
Are you sure your track bar is ok? Mine seemed tight when I got under there and grabbed it but when I took it off the bushings were very bad. Also, lately, I've heard nothing but bad things about Moog. Good luck.
Check your shocks. I have this same issue and thought the wander was related to my clunk but it looks like it is probably the Moog lower ball joints.
The clunk was traced to my front driver's side shock. I still need to replace them but the Rancho's that were on the truck when I bought it are garbage, so I've been told.
Might be worth checking...The guy that did my front end work unbolted the front shock then drove it and the clunk was gone. Put it back together and its back.
Its an idea, good luck.
The clunk was traced to my front driver's side shock. I still need to replace them but the Rancho's that were on the truck when I bought it are garbage, so I've been told.
Might be worth checking...The guy that did my front end work unbolted the front shock then drove it and the clunk was gone. Put it back together and its back.
Its an idea, good luck.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,198
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From: Used to be missoula, montana: Now in Sonoma County California
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...html?p=2572476
You can see my thread followed a similar issue it ended up being the moog ball joints.
You can see my thread followed a similar issue it ended up being the moog ball joints.
I have the Carli uppers and have been very happy...they take a lot of abuse and ask for More.I have driven Sage's truck with the lowers and it is truley amazing how smooth the steering is.He has been beating on the truck and taering it down for inspection after every thrashing and has seen no wear.He just got back from Baja after some more thrashing.That truck is a real work horse. 

Is there anything I can do to the Carlis, while I'm down there, to ensure they're working properly? Without a micrometer, I'm not sure what sort of technical inspection I can make after I take them out. Any ideas?
Dynatrac and Carli at this site. www.8lugtruckgear.com upper and lower.
Dynatrac and Carli at this site. www.8lugtruckgear.com upper and lower.
That's my website!
Anyhow, the Carli lowers should be out in November and the Dynatrac hopes to start shipping them in a few weeks.
I know alot of you have heard the whole alignment checks out story from the tech, but what kind of alignment numbers are they giving you? These trucks are very sensitive to caster. My 07 truck was hard to keep in the lane when it was new whereas my 05 truck on 37's drove straight down the road. The dealerr said that the alignment was in spec and that I should let the front end "break in". So I test drove a truck on their lot with 4 miles on it and it drove fine. I guess that one had a shorter "break in" period?
Anyhow, it turns out that the caster was around 2 degrees. I set it to 4 degrees myself and it improved quite a bit.
On another note, because of the amount of force that it takes to seat the ball joints in some trucks, I have heard of some moog ball joints being crushed a bit during install that also may cause the problem.

Anyhow, it turns out that the caster was around 2 degrees. I set it to 4 degrees myself and it improved quite a bit.
On another note, because of the amount of force that it takes to seat the ball joints in some trucks, I have heard of some moog ball joints being crushed a bit during install that also may cause the problem.



