I've searched all over the place for an answer...what's more frustrating is that it seems I'm the only one out there who either had a belt size problem or just plain on don't get it.

Condensed version of the story:

Tried to start the truck to go to work and it smoked something fierce. Turns out the A/C clutch or compressor seized and caused the belt to snap.

I did a quick search for the solution and it seems as bypassing the A/C is the easiest and cheapest way out. It's also November here in Canada and I grew up in Mexico. What I'm saying is I NEVER use the A/C.

Went to Napa had them order the A/C Bypass belt, installed it and the tensioner and water pump touch. Seems the belt is a bit too long.

Had a bunch of dudes come over and check it all out, one of who is a mechanic and everyone is scratching their heads.

The belt I have is the exact same as the Gates K081102 (who makes it for Napa) it's 110 inches long and it doesn't seem to work.

There is 2 possible ways to route the belt, one which is the "proper" way...both times the water pump and tensioner touch.

I feel incredibly stupid and can't seem to find any solution. Since the truck died on my driveway (lucky in a way) I have to get a tow truck to take it to the local mechanic, but I can't see what he would do differently.

What am I doing wrong???

 

You just use a belt for a NON AC truck and route the belt for NON AC. Might have to pull the compressor but nothing else changes other than the belt routing.

 

I have a NON AC belt and from what I can see the only difference between the "regular" belt routing and a NON AC belt routing is bypassing the a/c compressor, other than that there is no other difference in the information I've found.

Do you have any diagram that can illustrate the difference?

 

Under the hood should be belt routing diagrams for AC and NON AC engines. The routing is very different it goes the opposite direction on one or some of the idlers if I can remember. Here is a link to another thread. If you look on post #7 there is an attachment that works, it shows the routing of both. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3r...g-diagram.html

 

I've seen that diagram and if you take a look at it there is no difference in any direction minus bypassing the ac compressor.

according to that diagram if I pass the belt over top of the tensioner (#7) after I release the tensioner it will come into contact with the water pump pulley (#2).

 

I didn't look that closely at the diagrams before but the one NON AC is drawn slightly wrong. The #7 idler the belt should go around the outside coming up from below. This will turn the idler the opposite direction. I'll see if I can't find a better one.

 

From where I'm sitting that simply won't work.

The #7 tensioner pushes up or to 12 o'clock. If the belt goes on the outside from below, not only will the tensioner do absolutely nothing and the belt will just hang loose, but the tensioner will guaranteed come into contact with the water pump pulley. Much like it does now

 

c-bass, did you figure it out? I am about ready to tackle this project. Thanks for the input.