Do they squeak any? Noise?

 

Are you guys turning the rotors when you do the brake pads?
I have 54k and have been told I need new pads. Nobody will do the job without turning the rotors which costs another $150. I was thinking I'd just throw new pads on and see if there was a shutter, then go from there.
Whats your opinions???

 

I didn't turn mine and didn't have any trouble. Fronts lasted 88,000 rears lasted 98,000. Sticking caliper was the only reason the rears wore out. Inner was done outside was 50 %. My fronts wore very evenly and were within probably a 32nd of an inch.

 

I ordered the stock high end pads from dodge run 120 but I got a deal for around 90 and do not plan on doing anything to the roters they look fine and clean.
The roters just come off real easy maybe they think that the hubs need to be pulled...
Roters can be had new from a parts store for under 50$ each from what I was told. I had them turned on the old dodge 96 for 15$ each side and then replaced them the next time. They looked fine but were warped and turning them fixed it for 40K then the vib cam back.
got 61000 on mine now and was told needed new pads 10k ago still enough left but want to change them before I start pulling for the year.

 

My first brake job was at 55,000. Turned rotors. Installed Warner Severe Duty pads (1/2" thick pad material) Had a caliper stick and fail at 146,000.
Replaced Rotors, Calipers, Brake Lines and used the Warner pads again.

The pads I removed still had 1/4" of material left on them after 91,000 miles.
Rotors looked good, but wanted to start with all new stuff. I've got
169,000 on the truck now, brakes are great up front. It will be awhile before I have to do them again, unless a caliper fails.

Dave

 

The Dodge dealer has the pads for $75 but I don't know what level they are.
I called Midas for a quote who said they are running a brake special of $89.00, I then said I'd bring it in and was told that they wouldn't do the $89.00 special unless they turned the rotors, so the total was $240.00. I called the Dodge dealer and was quoted the same $240.00 and they needed to turn the rotors also. I figured I'd rather support my dealer than Midas, as the dealer has always taken care of me.
However, If I can get by with just installing new pads, I'll do it myself. Judging by my miles, and what you guys are saying about pad longevity, I might have another 10k on these pads.

 

The autozone one were trash. 50 bucks for squealing like a pig.
I'm ordering the EBC's right now.

 

IMO, unless the rotors show any signs of warping or heat damage, I wont turn them.
Iv done several disc jobs and have only had to replace one rotor because the idiot driver waited until the pad was down to rivits before he thought there was something wrong.

Iv got 34K on my 05 and they still have about 70% on all 4 corners.
When they need to be replaced, Im going with EBC.

 

If the rotors don't have any bad grooves, there was no vibration when braking before replacing pads and you are using the same pads as what was in there then yes you don't need to turn rotors. If you are using a different pad then you may find it may take longer to bed the pads in without machining but it can still be done.

 

sorry I don't follow you. How can you do a brake job and
"use the same pads as what was in there" ?

I have done a lot of brake jobs and only turn or replace the rotors when needed....
Cut, warped, stress crack, surface cracking, and so on.
Now that being said, some pads can cut into the rotor and need to be surfaced each time. I stay away from them now. PFCM are some of those, but they work....just hard on the rotor.

 

I had a front axle joint replaced under warranty a few weeks ago by the dealer and the mechanic let me watch. He gave tips about the brakes because I told him I was going to be doing them myself. The big thing he said to do is make sure that the clips that the pads ride on in the caliper are pull off and the corrosion is cleaned off the caliper and clips before reinstalling the pads. He said the corrosion binds the pads up which make them wear badly. Just some info that I thought would be helpful to the do it yourselfer.

 

Yep good point and if you get the high end Dodge pads they come with the new clips for them..
Did he have an easy way to pull the hub?
Jon

 

The trick with the hub was heat but not too much to ruin the bearing. He removed the 4 bolts that really hold the hub on. He then screwed in some bolts that just had a round head and used a air hammer on the bolts to loosen the hub and start pushing it out. The good thing was when the hub finally came off he took sanding wheel and cleaned up the part that was corroded and used a ton of anti-seize. He said mine wasn't too bad, but some are really bad.

 

I meant same pad as in replacing with the same type of pad. Not the same worn out pad.

Most people don't realize that brakes pads coefficient of friction relies on the brake pads creating friction with a smear of brake pad also on the rotor...not actually the friction between the rotor and pad. What happens during brake bed in is that there is a smear of the brake pad friction material onto the rotor surface, it is the friction between this smear and the brake pad that creates the most durable, predictable and reliable brake performance as well as longevity. If a different type of pad is suddenly put in without removing this smear (machining the rotor) then the two types of friction material can cause excessive wear (either pads or rotors) or less than optimum performance.

With my race car if I bed my brakes properly I can get the pads to last a long time (at least for a race car) and the rotors to last a decent amount of time. If I can't bed the pads for some reason the pads last about half as long and the rotors are trashed before the pads are done. The above info about the 'smear' was directly from an engineer at Hawk Brakes (which are what pads my race car usually has).