Guys, I have had my MegaCab for 6 months now. I've got 13K on the truck now. The dealer changed the oil when I purchased the truck. It had 6,500 miles on it when I picked it up. My question is since I can't find my manual is?? What brand of oil should I use and how much does this thing hold? Also, what brand (part#) oil filter do you guys use?

I would like to change my fuel filter too. Is it very hard? Any special tools needed? Can I pick up a fuel filter at Advance store or Autozone?

Thanks for any info. you can provide.

Mark

 

Simoniz;

Regarding your oil, it will take 3 gallons. Any name brand oil will suffice. 15w40 for dino or 5w40 synthetic. I personally feel with these engines that synthetic is overkill if you are going to be changing your oil regularly. There have been many posts that have shown guys who have had their dino oil analyzed after 10,000 miles and it is still good. I don't know about you, but I couldn't go past 10,000 miles without changing my oil, regardless of what kind of oil I have in the engine. That's my 2 cents on that. Also, don't go cheap on the filter. Either get a Mopar filter or another option is the Fleetguard (same as Mopar). Many are ordering from Geno's Garage on-line. Important: before replacing the filter, ensure you fill it with oil (will take close to a litre (sorry, Canadian slip) a quart).

The fuel filter is about the easiest thing you can do on your truck. Again, filter from Mopar or Geno's. I will try and do a step by step. If I forget anything someone else will chime in.

1) you can get a length of 3/4" ID hose in order to extend the drain hose attached to the filter housing. This would likely make it less messy but that is up to you.

2) fuel filter canister located on the driver's side of the engine compartment (below brake fluid reservoir).

3) with a container under the drain line, open the yellow valve on the bottom of the filter housing.

4) once the fuel has drained, take your wrench (crescent wrench works fine or a 1 and 1/8th socket) and remove the lid on the filter canister. These can be on tight but they will come off eventually.

5) pull the lid straight up. The filter will be attached to the lid by "fingers". You then can separate the filter from the lid.

6) replace the o-ring after lubricating the new one with diesel and then snap the new filter onto the lid. Make sure the end with the hole in it is down (away from the lid).

7) put the filter and lid back on and hand tighten. Using your wrench, tighten a LITTLE bit more. Don't go HE-MAN on it, maybe an 1/8th of a turn.

8) ensure the yellow valve is closed.

9) Once you have closed the valve turn the ignition to run, but do not start. You will hear the lift pump run for a few seconds. When it stops running bump the starter, DO NOT try for a full start yet. By doing this you are forcing the lift pump to prime the canister. This time the lift pump will run for a good bit longer. When the lift pump turns off bump the starter once again. This is to ensure the filter canister is full of fuel. When the lift pump turns off again, go for a full start. It may take a bit longer for the engine to fire off, and when it does run it may run a bit rough for a few seconds. The engine will return to a normal idle once the air has been purged out of the rail. While the engine is running hop out and check the canister for leaks, if no leaks you are good to go.

 

JDH covered it pretty well, but if you don't have any hose laying around to lengthen the drain hose on the fuel filter housing then you can just use a water bottle or beer bottle like I do. put the hose in the bottle and wedge the bottle between the axle and steering linkage and let it drain for easy disposal

Michael

 

Do you use dino yourself? I live in Alberta and apart from breaking in my Cummins, always will. Synthetic would be advantageous for the cold temps you experience.

 

I use Dino

 

Yeah, you can buy filters at Advance, Discount, Wally World, etc., but not GOOD filters. Use Fleetguard. You can buy 'em at most big rig shops that have a big blue C sign on the front or order 'em on line. DO NOT use Fram filters on a Cummins diesel. There are many episodes reported on this and other sites where the filter media in Frams has desintegrate with catostrophic results. I use the LF3894. It's the Fleetguard Stratopore without the flutes on the can. You can buy 'em from Geno's for less than $10 each. Mopar repackages Fleetguards and marks 'em up X3. JOIBO!

 

D-ROC;

I only use dino oil. I agree that during our cold winters the synthetic would certainly be better for start up, but I have very few cold weather starts as my truck is parked in a heated garage.

 

you can skip all that bumping and priming stuff if you have some diesel fuel around that you can just dump in the canister, fram air filters should be fine but like others said DO NOT USE their oil filters

 

Thanks guys!

 

If you use a beer bottle, make sure you keep it seperated from the one you are drinking out of! Diesel fuel has a bitter after-taste!

 

sounds like the voice of experience

 

Yes....I thought that would have been a given but you are right sir

 

Hey SIMONZ dont forget to do the front and rear Diffs at 15k- - - - -Buy 7 quarts of MOBIL1 75w-90 synthetic gear oil. You will use almost all 7 quarts. The gaskets are reusable on the diffs. Clean everything up real good after removing the covers..... Fill to just under the check holes! If you have any problems while you are doing these just let me know. You should still have my cell #! If not its 225-1784...... The fuel filters need to be 7 micron and the ones at AutoZone ect. are junk. Buy from the dealer or from Genos Garage online! This is what I do and I buy both the fuel and oil filters at the same time. JB

 

Well.... uuuummmm....eeeerrrrrrr.... OK, so I drank a LITTLE diesel!!!.. Dudnt seam to bea anne long turm damaig..

 

4500 miles on truck.

I just installed a NAPA Gold fuel filter. Mileage increased about 1.3 MPG with new filter.

Is this filter OK or should I replace it with a fleetguard?

Thanks

Nathan