did a search didn't find the answer I was looking for. Anyway getting ready to change the ball joints and ordered the K7448 upper and K7467 lower joints. My question is are the upper joints supposed to move about 3/8" in and out? While looking at the joint I happen to pull on the nut and the spindle(?) moved out. Is this right or do they tighten up when installed? They sure don't look like other ball joints that I have changed. Any thoughts or I'm just behind in the times?

 

those are the adjustalbe uppers , they need to be set when the alignment , what you need to do is get them close by taking out grees fitting in top and holding with allen head and then tighten nut . just did mine then alignment shop finest rest .

 

thanks for the reply, but I know they are adjustable for camber. The thing is I have not installed them yet and notice that you can physically move the spindle(shaft) in and out of the socket about 3/8". Do they tighten up once they are installed or am I missing something?

 

I had them installed on my truck and noticed a big problem from the first right turn out of the shop. Because the wheels are not rotating on one signal plane of rotation it will cause the drive axle to contact the solid axle. Both rotating axles (left and right) will move at least 3/4 of an inch if you watch while turning the steering wheel from extreme left to extreme right. It will also wear your right tire out on the outer side in no time because the camber is so out of wack in a right turn. The "adjustable" portion of the ball joint is mysterious to me because it doesn't matter either way because the wheel still rotates on that pin thats not straight. Thinks its moog way to sell more.
I dealt with federal mogul on the issue and they did nothing for me, they told me those where the wrong ones for my axle even though ever book showed those where the proper ball joints. They gave me another number and funny enough they where identical. I went and bought NAPA ball joints which are greaeable and put them in, threw the Moogs in the garbage and took the hit for the cash. Best part about it NAPA has a lifetime warrentty on parts and labour and they stick to it. I have heard the moog ball joints for these trucks wear out in no time, my lower balljoints are moogs and they are showing signs of wear already. I would take them back and get your money before its to late.

 

The upper “ball-joints” on these trucks are really pin joints. Only the lower ball joint is a true ball and socket.

The upper pin sides up and down for installation/tolerances, the lower joint carries the weight of the truck.

The stud on the lower ball joint travels in an arc, rather than just spinning the ball in the axis of the stud.

 

Ya and the "effect" makes the 4x4 axle contact the solid front axle because it goes in and out, in and out.
Stay away from the that product

 

ollie, you are the first that I've heard of that says moog joints are bad. I'm still trying to visualize the axle movement you are talking about. As I would think any axle movement in/out would destroy the bearing hub. the pivot point should be over the ujoint or then there would be some harsh turns. what am I missing?

 

moog also has a lifetime warranty. never had a problem with moog ball joints. i put new ones on my truck in june. truck aligned perfectly-front end is tighter than when i drove it off the dealers lot!

 

Greytd,
Yes it's hard to understand without actually seeing it. First off these may not happy to everyone but it sure did with mine and I chased the noise for ever. Finally one day I jacked it up and got the little woman to turn the wheel back and forth and bingo I spoted the problem.

I'll try to explain this the best I can,

If you grab the upper ball joint grab outer portion, with your other hand grab the pin. If you rotate the pin you will notice that it does not rotated on one axes point, it covers a large radius. So picture the knuckle sitting there, the person who aligns your truck can put that pin where ever he wants to achieve the proper camber and caster. So when the wheel is pointed forward in the alignment machine the pin from the ball joint is in the location where it should be at all times during any range of motion. The perset settings in that machine accounts for a solid pin.
So when you go to turn your steering wheel with offset ball joint because the pin is not centered it is going to make the knuckle do a few things, either move inboard or outboard(changing the chamber)and either change the caster while the pin is moving in that range of motion.
As you are aware(maybe not?) the axle is attached to the the rotor, so when the whole knuckle and rotor assembly is moved in and out the axle is traveling within the solid axle. In "MY" case when turning right the pin on the balljoint was at about 9 oclock position show the knuckle was sucked in which moved the axle in and there was contact. The camber was so out of wack also that the

My theory at the time was reposition the pin so it's in a different position at the position. If you reposition the pin the alignment from the machine won't be correct.

That's my two cents, the Federal Mogul rep told me these weren't the right ball joints.

CHEERS

 

Ollie, I have looked at these Moog adjustable "Problem Solver" ball joints and I understand what you are saying about the "sweep" the upper BJ stud would make when steering. These ball joints looked scary to me for the simple reason that you could not start at a zero point and adjust from there as required, but must set at either full camber or full caster change, or a combination of both. For this reason, I would NEVER install these ball joints unless I had a big steering problem I was trying to cover up (or compensate for). If you are simply changing ball joints due to wear or play, just install Moog's standard (non adjustable) uppers.

 

thanks for the info. the truck is tracking quite well as is. So I guess I don't need the adjustables. I'll check to see if I can exchange them for the regular ball joints. Make sense about the arc that that spindle can and will make.

 

Is part number K7448 and K7467 for a pair of ball joints each or do I need to buy 2 of each part number?

 

you need two of each, but like is has been said unless you need/have caster adjustment problems do not get the K7448 upper balljoint. It may or may not cause a turning problem for you. I ended up getting the spicer 5001117 upper and 5051311 lower.

 

I found that the NAPA near me sells Dana joints. Anyone run these?? Good/bad??

 

Put them in my truck about 5K ago. No problems as of yet. Installed fine, without getting the adjustable ones. I believe that the DANA ones are the same as MOOG. Either way.....lifetime warranty.