Low speed wobble when turning
Low speed wobble when turning
Hi fellas,
I've recently noticed that when I do a low speed turn it feels like something is wobbling in the front end. At higher speeds say greater than 20 mph I don't feel anything. Took in to the dealership who told me it'd cost:
Item: Part Cost + Labour Cost = Total
4 ball joints(excessive play): $380 + $780 = $1160
Front axle ujoints(siezing): $295 + $470 = $765
Pitman Arm/Tierod end (loose): $60 + $130 = $190
Shimmy shock (leaking): $210 + $70 = $280
4 shocks (leaking): $420 + $260 = $680
For a grand total of ($1365 + $1710) = $3075
Any hints on what I can do to diagnose this myself by jacking up the front end and trying to move the wheel in various directions. I'm handy enough with tools that I feel I could probably do this work myself, especially at these prices!
If it turns out I do need a complete front end rebuild, any recommendations on replacements part numbers and sources and specialty tools required? Would I be right in guessing I could get better than factory replacement pieces for cheaper than what the dealer is quoting me? Also anything else I should consider doing while I'm in there? I'm in Canada (Calgary, Alberta) but have access to a PO box across the border for shipping stuff. Also if anyone knows a shop in Calgary that does good work on Dodge's for reasonable costs I'd love to hear it.
Thanks for your help!
Cheers,
Paul
P.S. This is on a 2003 2500 HO 6SPD Manual Quad Cab Short box with 120,000 km
I've recently noticed that when I do a low speed turn it feels like something is wobbling in the front end. At higher speeds say greater than 20 mph I don't feel anything. Took in to the dealership who told me it'd cost:
Item: Part Cost + Labour Cost = Total
4 ball joints(excessive play): $380 + $780 = $1160
Front axle ujoints(siezing): $295 + $470 = $765
Pitman Arm/Tierod end (loose): $60 + $130 = $190
Shimmy shock (leaking): $210 + $70 = $280
4 shocks (leaking): $420 + $260 = $680
For a grand total of ($1365 + $1710) = $3075
Any hints on what I can do to diagnose this myself by jacking up the front end and trying to move the wheel in various directions. I'm handy enough with tools that I feel I could probably do this work myself, especially at these prices!

If it turns out I do need a complete front end rebuild, any recommendations on replacements part numbers and sources and specialty tools required? Would I be right in guessing I could get better than factory replacement pieces for cheaper than what the dealer is quoting me? Also anything else I should consider doing while I'm in there? I'm in Canada (Calgary, Alberta) but have access to a PO box across the border for shipping stuff. Also if anyone knows a shop in Calgary that does good work on Dodge's for reasonable costs I'd love to hear it.
Thanks for your help!
Cheers,
Paul
P.S. This is on a 2003 2500 HO 6SPD Manual Quad Cab Short box with 120,000 km
I just recently did my front end myself. If you have the space and time do it yourself it's not to bad. I did ball joints (spicer), axle ujoints (precision), shocks (rancho 5000). The biggest PIA is getting the hub assembly off. I got the parts at rockauto.com. No one in town could touch the prices even including shipping.
Ok, for anyone else wanting to do an '03 4WD front end, I just put the following order in for $761 with all shipping, duty and taxes to Canada:
MOOG K7448 Upper Ball Joints (2)
MOOG K7467 Lower Ball Joints (2)
PRECISION 464 Universal Joints, Front Axle (2)
PRECISION 351A Universal Joints, Rear shaft (3)
PRECISION 534G Universal Joints, Front shaft (1)
RANCHO RS5412 Steering Damper shock (1)
SPICER 4251011 Tie Rod End Sleeve (1)
SPICER 4011920 Pitman/Tie Rod End, Inner (1)
SPICER 4011919 Pitman/Tie Rod End, Outer (1)
Anyone think I should add a couple of Timken wheel hubs for $241 a pop? Anything else?
Cheers,
Paul
MOOG K7448 Upper Ball Joints (2)
MOOG K7467 Lower Ball Joints (2)
PRECISION 464 Universal Joints, Front Axle (2)
PRECISION 351A Universal Joints, Rear shaft (3)
PRECISION 534G Universal Joints, Front shaft (1)
RANCHO RS5412 Steering Damper shock (1)
SPICER 4251011 Tie Rod End Sleeve (1)
SPICER 4011920 Pitman/Tie Rod End, Inner (1)
SPICER 4011919 Pitman/Tie Rod End, Outer (1)
Anyone think I should add a couple of Timken wheel hubs for $241 a pop? Anything else?
Cheers,
Paul
Put the front wheels in the air and grab them to check for loose joints (prybar can be handy) and/or have someone steer lock-to-lock while you're looking under the front end for unwanted movement.
If your truck is tracking well skip the moog joints and go with the spicers. The moogs are only needed if you are having a tracking problem and need to adjust the caster. That's what I got from reading all the threads about which ones to get.
Hub/Bearing in town are $295 if you need them.
Hub/Bearing in town are $295 if you need them.
The truck is tracking fine but the moogs are on their way so too late for the spicers.
Other than the $40 I could have saved does it make things harder?
Should a person do the hubs while they are out for something like this? Its got 120,000 km on the original hubs.
Other than the $40 I could have saved does it make things harder?Should a person do the hubs while they are out for something like this? Its got 120,000 km on the original hubs.
The moogs are fine, but from the looks of them and what I ending reading about them is they change the caster and camber angles as go from full right lock to full left lock. Not an issue unless you are constantly driving on very curvy roads all time. Some have said though that a full lock to full lock it may cause the axle to move in and out of the axle tube quite alot and also may contact the side. As for the hubs unless you break them while getting them off or they are bad to begin with they should be ok. Just use antiseize when putting them back together.
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I'm looking at putting the moogs in my 05 2500. They appear much heavier in construction then the AC Delco or OEM units. Hopefully they hold up the extra pressure snow plowing places on the front end of the truck.
Shipping smaller items to CA is pretty easy. I use US Postal Service for things like ball joints and u-joints. You also don't get hit with brokerage charges tat way. Bigger items like suspension and Free Spin kits are another story.
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