So yesterday the truck started leaking fuel when my wife drove it to work. The fuel filter canister cap had come loose by about 1/2 turn. Cranked it hand tight again, all's well.
Thing is, it's been about 4000mi since I changed the filter.
Anyone ever have this happen to them??
No way truck was tampered with, parked in the garage not leaking the night before.
Could the cheap plastic threads be starting to give out? Truck only has 40k mi on it and maybe 6 filter changes.

 

Never heard of that happening, but you never know. The cap is marked not to exceed 25 lb ft of torque. If you apply that mich tightening it is very tough to get it off, maybe even damage it. Since there is not that much pressure in there I just go hand tight as tight as I can and still have a tough time (sometimes) getting it off. As far as bad threads never heard of that either. I have 118K miles and no issues. My son's 06 dually has about 450K miles and still works perfectly.

Is it possible that you forgot to tighten it when you changed the filter. Maybe go off onto something else? Possibly forgot the o-ring?

Pete

 

that is why there is a hex head on the top so you can tighten it with a socket to ensure. Hand tight aint always good enough and with the vibration these things produce, give it a lil snug with the socket.

 

I agree. I've never heard of anyone only tightening the cap "hand tight". That isn't anywhere near the correct ball park of snugness.

 

It's possible that you kinked the O-Ring somehow and it just happened to hold for those 4000 miles. I would put a new O-ring on, smear a little diesel on it, tighten it down properly and maybe mark the cap and canister to see if it is moving..
It's also possible that you hit a tight spot and just thought it was tight and somehow that just loosened up on you..

 

Official installation instructions per Dodge


INSTALLATION
Refer to maintenance schedules for recommended fuel filter replacement intervals.

1. Thoroughly clean inside of filter housing, filter cap and all related components.

2. Fuel Filter:
a. The engine has a self-priming low-pressure fuel system. Refer to Standard Procedures-Fuel System Priming.
b. Install new O-ring to canister lid and lubricate O-ring with clean engine oil.
c. Position new element to canister lid. Place this assembly into canister by rotating clockwise.
d. Tighten cap to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque. Do not overtighten cap.

3. Water-In-Fuel (WIF) Sensor:
a. Install new o-ring seal to WIF sensor.
b. Apply a light film of clean oil to o-ring seal.
c. Install sensor into housing.
d. Tighten sensor to 2.5 N·m (25 in. lbs.) torque.
e. Connect electrical connector to WIF sensor.

4. Fuel Heater Element:
a. Install fuel heater into fuel filter housing.
b. Install fuel heater thermostat onto the outside of the fuel filter housing.
c. Install fuel heater mounting screws and tighten to 1-1.5 N·m (8 - 13 in. lbs.) torque.
d. Connect electrical connector to fuel heater thermostat.
e. Install new filter cover O-ring onto fuel filter housing cover and lubricate with clean engine oil.
f. Tighten fuel filter housing cover (lid) to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.).

5. Drain Valve:
a. Install 2 new O-rings to valve.
b. Lubricate with silicon grease.
c. Install fuel drain valve.
d. Install 4 mounting screws and tighten to 1–1.5 N·m (8–13 in. lbs.) torque.
e. Connect drain hose to drain valve.

6. Install two new sealing washers to bolt.
7. Install screened banjo bolt Tighten to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.)
8. Start engine and check for leaks.

 

Thanks for the procedure CBrahs!
So far, I've never sone more than 2 a thru d!
I think what happened was what Dodgezilla said. Hit a tight spot and thought it was good........it was for 4000mi. No issues now since I tightened it down another 1/2 turn or so.
I've only hand tightened the cap when I change the filter and I sure as heck can't get it off again. Have to use a wrench every time.

 

you are welcome. ever need any other good info just shoot me a pm and I will get it fer ya.