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Ladder Bar Help

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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 01:50 PM
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worldindustries's Avatar
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Ladder Bar Help

I am about to hit "confirm" on gdp ladder bars due to bad wheel hop in the snow and when trying to do a burnout at the track, can some people with ladder bars please confirm that this eliminated their wheel hop or not, TIA
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 02:13 PM
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they work and get rid of 90% it if they are stout track bars. You
might break something in your driveline on burnouts tho.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 03:41 PM
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They will work great and being the GDP's swing at the front you wont have any of the binding associated with the fixed style like the sled pullers run.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 07:09 PM
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what do you mean driveline problems? more than what there would be with out the bars?
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by worldindustries
what do you mean driveline problems? more than what there would be with out the bars?
Ladder bars help eliminate "axle wrap". The long leaf springs allow the axle to wrap/twist under torque quite a bit before before the truck actually moves. Especially on burnouts and boosted launches, etc.

The axle wrap somewhat buffers the torque input to the wheels. Eliminating the axle wrap can thus put more stress on the drivetrain when launching hard which could result in snapped input or output or other parts in the driveline.
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Old Dec 7, 2009 | 11:11 PM
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do you guys think I made the right choice in eliminating the wheel hop?
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 03:15 AM
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Yes. Just realize there are reactions for every action. Your power like stated is now being delivered more efficiently. This is more good than bad. Your springs, shocks, and driveshaft u joints will be better off because they will now be operating in more favorable geometrys. While that does mean more instant torque delivery is now in play, you haven't actually increased any power output, only its efficiency.
To clarify what the others are concerned about is impact energy or shock loading (not sure of the correct technical term, hopefully someone can pipe in). Say you load up a wagon full of wood at the edge of your lawn and you now need to roll it close to your house. You begin to pull and while it moves slightly, you do not get it rolling. What would you do next? Most people would now try to give it a yank. Your yank provides more oomph for a moment. For a brief moment you impart more force than you could regularly sustain. If you yank to hard you feel it. Same thing at work here.

As a disclaimer i am not a physicist nor do I even own a set of ladder bars myself. However they are on the future mod list. Engineers have designed your axle shafts to take such things into account and as such they flex up to one and one half times their own diameter before springing back. A u joint however gets weaker as the operating angle increases due to leverage.

Here is a great in depth article on what im talking about with axle shafts. I recommend the first page before this one as well.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...0/index1b.html
For the u joint try this,
http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html
Who would have thought playing in the woods with a jeep would be so intellectually beneficial?
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 03:38 AM
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TexasCTD's Avatar
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Here is why you need traction bars......

without....







And here is with them........




..
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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In my experience, they help reduce wheel hop forward and they give you a more solid highway feeling but the bars don't seem to help much in reverse/snow where I regularly back up a steep grade (unloaded).
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