ladder bar ??
#1
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Location: Charles Town, WV
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ladder bar ??
Has anyone ever put ladder bars on one of our first gens? I'm not worried about articulation. Will ladder bars designed for a second gen work on our trucks? I think I'm definitely gonna need em, my lift has the softride springs and their a little to soft for my liking. It's alot nicer ride though. I don't think I'm gonna hook to the sled anymore, with the extra height it's too easy to break....I consider myself lucky not to have broken at stock height. Thanks
Sam
Sam
#2
http://www.artmorrison.com/
I run thiers on my car, they have few options for trucks as well. They are rather easy to fab, so if you find a set can be made to fit real easy.
I run thiers on my car, they have few options for trucks as well. They are rather easy to fab, so if you find a set can be made to fit real easy.
#3
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Location: Gatesville, TX
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Not sure if anyone has a kit for our trucks, but I'm rounding up the parts for this project right now. I'm planning on putting the truck back in the shop the month of October and a set of Ladder bars are on the list. If anyone is interested, i'll let you know how it turns out.
#5
1st Generation Admin
For your consideration ~ ~
I didn't care for the amount of twist my rear axle was doing so I ended up making my own traction bar . . . . thingy.
It amounts to a short piece of 3"x6" (I think) boxed steel cut into the shape of a triangle. I drilled holes just big enough to pass the stock U-bolts through it. The rear of the link is mounted with some 2"x4" (I think) boxed steel. The actual link is threaded rod with substantial pivots I got from Graingers. I've set mine up so as to place the link in compression when under an acceleration load. It works very well at locating the axle.
Hind-sight suggests using an adjustable link that would otherwise be used in a tractor's upper link of the standard 3-point hitch (perhaps less expensive and certainly more adjustable).
If you're into rock-crawling, it's my understanding that ladder bars my cut into the under-truck clearance. Further, many ladder bars are merely cosmetics unless they're welded to the axle.
I didn't care for the amount of twist my rear axle was doing so I ended up making my own traction bar . . . . thingy.
It amounts to a short piece of 3"x6" (I think) boxed steel cut into the shape of a triangle. I drilled holes just big enough to pass the stock U-bolts through it. The rear of the link is mounted with some 2"x4" (I think) boxed steel. The actual link is threaded rod with substantial pivots I got from Graingers. I've set mine up so as to place the link in compression when under an acceleration load. It works very well at locating the axle.
Hind-sight suggests using an adjustable link that would otherwise be used in a tractor's upper link of the standard 3-point hitch (perhaps less expensive and certainly more adjustable).
If you're into rock-crawling, it's my understanding that ladder bars my cut into the under-truck clearance. Further, many ladder bars are merely cosmetics unless they're welded to the axle.
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: British Columbia, Canada
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Give Mark a call at PDR...he has rear bars on his truck and they seem to work great without any interference or problems...and he goes into the wilderness hunting with that baby....darn P-Pumper.......treason I say, treason....
pb...
pb...
#7
Registered User
BC847--that's really cool! Very neat and tidy, too. I've got a 3point project for my superA on hold right now...maybe I'll put that toplink to good use. Stadnard CATI toplink from tractor supply=18 bucks.
g
g
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#8
Any 2 bar ladder-bar setup mounted to the axle is going to limit flex, it's like a big sway bar. The bars that run from the frame to the leaf pad will also limit flex since the the leaf spring bends and changes length, but the bar does not. Guess it depends on what you mean by limiting flex?
I like running a single bar that splits off and connects to both axle tubes. Ideally, this bar should have a shackle setup near the forward end to allow for/aft movement when leaf spring changes length. I've also used 2 thick wall DOM tubes, one inside the other, greased with a driveshaft boot covering it to allow for/aft movement if you don't have a lot of clearance between forward end of bar mount and floor.
I like running a single bar that splits off and connects to both axle tubes. Ideally, this bar should have a shackle setup near the forward end to allow for/aft movement when leaf spring changes length. I've also used 2 thick wall DOM tubes, one inside the other, greased with a driveshaft boot covering it to allow for/aft movement if you don't have a lot of clearance between forward end of bar mount and floor.
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