bigdaddy51200

Hello,

I just purchased a 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 Laramie 2WD DRW with 5.9L L6 OHV 24V TURBO DIESEL , auto . I have never owened a diesel before , so I am a total noob . I will be using this about 95% of the time to tow a 5th wheel not as a daily driver .

So any tips, advice would be greatly appreciated .

Bigdaddy51200

tryNto

Welcome to the Cummins Family...

Best thing to do is read a couple months worth of posts and join other Cummins Forums and read some more. You will gain lots of first hand knowledge from this...

Sur5er

Welcome to the crew! X2 on tryNto's comments. There is a whole heaping passle of info running around, some great and some questionable. My first suggestion would be to get a downloadable Service Manual, a bottle of 16 yr old Single Malt and do some reading. I'd prefer the paper manual, but this is the paperless generation! I'd also change all the fluids and filters to establish a baseline for whatever your service cycle ends up being. You'll find a lot of people that run their trucks just about the same way as you will and they can help you out considerably.

Good luck and enjoy!

Lost Lake

Install a Smarty jr.

If you didn't catch that, install a Smarty jr.

Do all kinds of research, check on problems, verify fuel mileage reports, talk to hundreds of owners, and then you will come to the number one thing you can do for your truck.....

Install a Smarty jr.

After that, push on the long slim pedal on the right and be happy.

etn550

Welcome to the forum. You will like your truck. They are made to tow.

There are all kinds of mods and upgrades. Just depends on what direction you want to go. Or do nothing at all.

Read and read often. Fortunately, our trucks do not have any major issues but any truck can prove the statistics wrong and they are more expensive to fix then gas engines.

I would say for towing with a 4 speed automatic you will want to consider upgrades and maintenance on the transmission. Especially before adding power to the engine.

Aftermarket Gages for turbo boost and EGT (exhaust gas temp) are not just for hot rodders. They give valuable information when driving, for efficiency and knowing when to drop it down a gear, etc. especially towing. Also for cooling down when stopping after towing.

An exhaust brake is very good for towing especially in mountains. Many trailers have brakes that are strong initially but fade quick on a long grade. Exhaust brakes are so effective that the foot brake is almost never needed on an interstate downgrade with a tall (high wind drag) trailer. The diesel truck is heavier and the engines do not have much natural braking like a gas engine so there is a tendency to roll downhill fast.

This has been a great discussion board for me and I hope you find it to be true too. Check the threads in the towing and RV section. They move a little slower but you will get good info on all sorts of towing subjects from many experts!

bigdaddy51200

Well I have done allot reading So what engine oil should I use ??
Filters for fuel & engine ?? The axle should be changed around 15K if I read it right ,engine oil about every 7K ( I will do fuel filter the same time ). I will be towing 14,000 pounds about 95% of the time .

Bigdaddy51200

JRD

For the best oil, I wont comment on that. Its a heated and never ending battle. Its like asking what the best color is. You will get a million different answers based on everyones individual opinions.
But for fuel filters use a Baldwin PF7977. Its the best rated fuel filter that will fit in the stock canister. However I do recommend you add a 2 micron external filter soon. These injectors LOVE super clean fuel.
For oil filters either the Fleetguard Stratapore or Donaldson ELF 7349 are what I personally use due to their high ratings.

Bowser50

15W40 is the oil you want to use, brand is up to the individuals preference really, and also what are you willing to pay for. I have used Chevron Delo oil for a long time and had no real problems and change it regularly, that's the key to engine longevity. I have also used other brands from royal purple, shell, quaker state, amsoil. Price has been the deciding factor for me. I spent $140 bucks on an oil change to royal purple and went a little farther between intervals due to it's synthetic qualities but ended up just going back to the Delo. I would treat the engine with some zmax on your first change it can help save your turbos bearings from coking and shutting down cool will too but it helps that little bit more. Some oil stabilizer maybe too on the next change since you bought it used and then after that maybe every 4 changes do it again. For filters I personally go with Napa filters for everything because they are made by wix filters, and they are good. I would also reccomend fleetguard filters, amsoil makes filters as well, and even an oil bypass system, the FS filter bypass systems are pretty sweet too, they completely remove soot from the oil, pretty amazing. I change my oil about every 6k just cuz I like even numbers and it usually times out to when I have money to do it. I have never used Fram filters on my truck because I had a bad experience with one in a gasser I had and will never do it again. But that's my dollars worth and hope it helped you make an educated decision, and before you do just do some research take what I said compare it with what others are going to tell you and choose from all the pros and cons that's all any of us can really do.

FMB

Welcome to DTR. You will find loads of information here. Get used to the "Search" feature.

I usually pick up my filters in a 4/2/1 pack from Geno's. Great folks there.

Rednax

The 2WD has the advantage of independent front suspension with rack & pinion steering. MUCH better steering feel, and feedback. Change the fluid (along with brake, steering, oil, rear axle, etc). The 2WD does not have the premature ball joint or steering wear problems of the 4WD.

An exhaust brake is recommended for 10k trailers or above in the Chassis & Bodybuilder Manual.

As above, EGT plus MAP gauges are a good addition as would be an ATF gauge.

Headlight upgrade harness (relay-driven).

BALDWIN fuel filter per above number.

Factory or other deep air filter (search, it's a new number).

BILSTEIN shock absorbers

Factory premium brake linings if needed.

MICHELIN LTX A/S for best mpg/miles as an on-road tire. M/S if need some more traction.

See HEATERTREATER; seat cushion repair; u-joints. Lift pump.

There isn't much.

I did first brake job at 120k along with first set of tires & shocks. U-joints at 150k. No rattles or squeaks at 170k. But 7.5 year old batteries are about to go.

Record all fuel used to keep an eye on trends.

Good luck

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