Just found out I need ball joints.... YIKES
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,184
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From: Dallas area
or you could do like I did and replce the unit bearings, upper and lower ball joints, and u joints all at the same time! lol $$ 
now have greasable ball joints, ujoints, dss, and tracbar.... starting to turn into a serviceable front end 
now have greasable ball joints, ujoints, dss, and tracbar.... starting to turn into a serviceable front end
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 167
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From: vancouver
Stay away from the Moog upper ball joints, not sure what year your truck is. The part number is K7748.
I installed them a while back, had this aweful sound when turning left. Turns out after alot of looking under the front end, its the axle contact this differential. There is a big design flaw, the entire pin so to speak rotates when your turn the wheel. Because it's offset the knuckle is not rotating on the same AXIS. There for its making the driveshafts move back in forth in the differential. Also have extreme pre mature wear on the edges of my front tires because the camber changes so much in the corners.
STAY AWAY FROM THESE UNITS.
I installed them a while back, had this aweful sound when turning left. Turns out after alot of looking under the front end, its the axle contact this differential. There is a big design flaw, the entire pin so to speak rotates when your turn the wheel. Because it's offset the knuckle is not rotating on the same AXIS. There for its making the driveshafts move back in forth in the differential. Also have extreme pre mature wear on the edges of my front tires because the camber changes so much in the corners.
STAY AWAY FROM THESE UNITS.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,183
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
Stay away from the Moog upper ball joints, not sure what year your truck is. The part number is K7748.
I installed them a while back, had this aweful sound when turning left. Turns out after alot of looking under the front end, its the axle contact this differential. There is a big design flaw, the entire pin so to speak rotates when your turn the wheel. Because it's offset the knuckle is not rotating on the same AXIS. There for its making the driveshafts move back in forth in the differential. Also have extreme pre mature wear on the edges of my front tires because the camber changes so much in the corners.
STAY AWAY FROM THESE UNITS.
I installed them a while back, had this aweful sound when turning left. Turns out after alot of looking under the front end, its the axle contact this differential. There is a big design flaw, the entire pin so to speak rotates when your turn the wheel. Because it's offset the knuckle is not rotating on the same AXIS. There for its making the driveshafts move back in forth in the differential. Also have extreme pre mature wear on the edges of my front tires because the camber changes so much in the corners.
STAY AWAY FROM THESE UNITS.
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 19
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From: Toronto, On
do you have to remove the big cotter pin bolt from the centre of the wheel to get the hub off? wouldnt not removing it prevent the hub from separating from the axel shaft, and still let you get the hub off?
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,118
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From: Winchester, TN
Looking good Viking, but be careful with those bearings. It seems like you are doing just fine, and I am not trying to insult you or talk to you like you dont know what you are doing, but I have seen and heard of the bearings still seperating with the tool made for the job. A lot of people do get lucky and do just fine with that tool, but just watch it, because those hub bearing are about $300-$400 each side! IF it looks like the other side might seperate, maybe give it some help with the method that I spoke of on page one. Also, coat everything liberally with penetrating fluid as it is coming apart and anti seize before you close her back up. Good luck and looks good.
M Sandt
M Sandt
Well if he ruins the other one pulling it off there I know where he can get a perfectly good replacement that's only got 7500 miles on it for a smokin deal.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
I just did the driver side this weekend.
I also got kit in the picture and the Harbor Freight press. No complaints on any of them. Ball joints looked good, Press worked great for removal and install.
As far as getting that hub off, I tried to hammer the hub off from the back, that did'nt go so well. I also tried to pop the hub off with an extension to the frame, it slipped off and I bent my lower suspension arm, well, dented it anyway. I then decided to get the trusty torches out. I loosened the ball joint nuts, droped the knuckle as far as it would go and cut the ball joints. Pulled the knuckle and shaft out all at once. Then I had room to work. Set the knuckle on some jackstands and while my dad held it down, I beat the hub out. Let me tell you, that thing was in there. But it went in with plenty of play after I took my Dremel to the mating srufaces and polished them up.
I still have vibration though. I guess I'll do the pass. side this weekend and hope for the best.
I also got kit in the picture and the Harbor Freight press. No complaints on any of them. Ball joints looked good, Press worked great for removal and install.
As far as getting that hub off, I tried to hammer the hub off from the back, that did'nt go so well. I also tried to pop the hub off with an extension to the frame, it slipped off and I bent my lower suspension arm, well, dented it anyway. I then decided to get the trusty torches out. I loosened the ball joint nuts, droped the knuckle as far as it would go and cut the ball joints. Pulled the knuckle and shaft out all at once. Then I had room to work. Set the knuckle on some jackstands and while my dad held it down, I beat the hub out. Let me tell you, that thing was in there. But it went in with plenty of play after I took my Dremel to the mating srufaces and polished them up.
I still have vibration though. I guess I'll do the pass. side this weekend and hope for the best.
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