So I went to get my truck aligned and it seems like passanger side upper and lower is bad and drivers is getting bad. Little did I know these things are extrememly expensive. I was quoted $1500 for parts and labor......LOL!!!

Seems like the cheapest ones I found are $75 EACH. Any recommendations? Do I need all 4? Will labor really be that expensive to do? Do I need for upper and lower????????

 

MIne was done under extended warranty had all 4 done, really only cost about 300

 

I got mine from www.rockauto.com. They have some good deals, I didn't get the greasable ones because I didnt have the money, but those are the most recommended. They have a kit that has the joints and the tools to get it done for under $300.00 I think. Check them out, I did them myself, so feel free to ask me any questions about them. Its pretty easy.

M Sandt

 

Ball joints are any easy thing you can do yourself. Save the cash and do it yourself.

 

dont you need a lift/rack? Not something that can be done on the driveway, is it?

 

also remember that the allowable spec for up and down play is .090" this is alot and what dodge recommends, i only have 8k on my truck and have a bit of play already so i would measure them and if you dont have any in and out play yet dont worry about it.Most shops out there dont know that your allowed to have play in them so beware it could just be a money grab thing for smaller shops. i know cause im a dodge tech.

 

did you guys say a lift rack is needed for this?

Or just a floor jack?

Does anyone have pictures of them on the truck?

 

I was told i need them also. .090 thousands? how is this measured?

 

This is true i took mine in and they are only .055" out so Dodge would not replace them...how did i know they where bad. I took the truck for a alignment and the tech. took me in the shop and showed me the play!clunk a clunk it would move but still not coverd by DODGE!

 

You can do it in your driveway with a regular floor jack and jack stands. You can just do one side at a time . The only specialized tool you need is a ball joint press and a pickle fork is nice to have. You can usually rent these at auto zone or advance auto. The worst part is removing the hub bearing assembly without seperating it. If you seperate it, it is about a 4-500 dollar part each side. I was taught a really good trick for removing these that works almost every time without seperating the hub bearing. It took me about 10 hours total to do the job, but that included my front u-joints as well, and my ball joints were seized in there and it took some time to get them off, especially the drivers side. To get the hubs off:
1. Remove the tire/wheel, caliper and rotor first.

2. There are 4 bolts on the back side of the hub, loosen those up and back them out about 1 inch, but leave some threads still in the hub itself.

3. Leave a socket and an extension on the bolt, and start the truck.

4. (It helps to have a helper here) Turn your steering wheel slowly and have the helper guide the socket extension onto a solid point on the frame, and continue to slowly turn the wheel. The power steering will start to push the hub off the steering knuckle.

5. Do this in a cross pattern on each of the four bolts, and after you finish, continue to back the colts out a little more and more each time. they are about 3.5 inches long so you have a ways to go and still have a good amount of thread in the hole so it wont strip out.

Take your time and pay attention and the hub WILL NOT seperate.

I hope I didnt confuse anybody. I should have taken pictures when I did it to post. It is a lot easier than it sounds, and is safer than the actual tool made to pull the hubs, because those often times even seperate the hub. When done correctly, this is guarunteed to work.

Sorry for the long post. Good luck and I get on here often, so ask questions if you need to.

M Sandt

 

Check these out too, these are what I got.

www.quad4x4.com A whole kit with all 4 joints, hardware, anti-seize and loc-tite for $219. Also you can get the same kit with tools to do it for a bit more. You are going to need a big socket to get the axle nut off, I cant remember the siae, but you can see it by removing your lug nut covers.

But, do it right the first time and get the greasable ball joints, they will last the life of your truck. Moog's seem to be very popular, and the spicers are pretty popular as well. Good luck.

M Sandt

 

All you need is an air or battery powered Impact, BFH, prybar, jack stands, floor jack. Listen to the instructions above, it really is pretty simlple. Ask questions if they come up. Just yesterday not on a truck but on a mercedes I did lower ball joints in about 15 min. I did have a lift though.

 

All of this for $219?? Isnt that everything I need?

http://www.quad4x4.com/Dodge%20Front...%202003-up.htm

 

It is also a good idea to take a cylinder hone or "bottle brush" to your knuckle housing to clean it up, then apply a crap load of anti-sieze. When your u-joints or ball joints fail again, the hub will easily come out by hand.

 

so there should be some play then? The way the guy tested it was he raised the truck on a lift and then raised the front end off the lift and used a crow bar under the tires and pushed up and saw that that ball joints were bad.