Intermittent miss at idle
Intermittent miss at idle
I have been noticing (mostly a couple of minutes after a cold start) that I have an intermittent miss at idle. It sounds like it is just skipping a beat every now and then. I have never noticed it throttle-on (but maybe it's doing it and I just cannot feel it when the engine is spinning faster). Unladen, I have only sensed it when idling and stopped or parked (in drive but not moving). With my fiver attached, I experienced the same thing only it was much more pronounced when maneauvering at low speed (idle or just off-idle). It literally felt like it was going to quit - but never has.
Does this sound like an injector problem? If so, is there a fairly simple test the dealer (or I) can do to determine a faulty injector? I have also wondered if it could be the AC compressor cycling on. Could the power draw be so severe as to make me think the engine is about to die? I only have about 3k miles and it has done this from the get-go. So, I doubt if it's a clogged fuel filter - but I'm open to anything.
Thanks,
Neil
Does this sound like an injector problem? If so, is there a fairly simple test the dealer (or I) can do to determine a faulty injector? I have also wondered if it could be the AC compressor cycling on. Could the power draw be so severe as to make me think the engine is about to die? I only have about 3k miles and it has done this from the get-go. So, I doubt if it's a clogged fuel filter - but I'm open to anything.
Thanks,
Neil
I have felt a similiar miss from my 2003, 555. I'm not sure but sometimes I think it may be my A/C cycling. Mine isn't too pronounced, it's just a small miss but doesn't make me think the engine is going to die.
I'm pretty sure it's not the AC coming on, but that's still a possibility. I guess I'll know for sure if it happens when the AC is off (rather seldom now that summer has come on full steam). Maybe my statement "sounds like it's going to die" is a bit of an exaggeration, but it is a serious enough miss that it seems like the whole engine just stops for a brief instant. It has never failed to continue to run. This was disturbing while trying to push my fifth wheel around my culdesac and the campground. The whole truck/trailer would just stop during the hesitation (just a fraction of a second, but still noticeable). It probably happened a total of about 5 times during the camping trip. Occasionally, it will do it at stoplight as well.
Try putting some different (brand) diesel fuel in her and maybe double up on a good fuel additive at the same time.
Drive hard for a few hundred miles, maybe you can "blow" out a clogged injector if that's what it is.
Ron W.
Drive hard for a few hundred miles, maybe you can "blow" out a clogged injector if that's what it is.
Ron W.
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Durango12,
Factory alloys: Yes.
Price: $500 exchange (included mount/balance from my dealer)
They look great! Pics to come soon.
Two complications (more like inconveniences). They don't come with the chrome center caps. So, you have to either find some (I swapped with another DTR member who wanted dull ones to go with his new H2 wheels) or buy them (dealer wants $58 each). The other inconvenience is dealing with the cores. There aren't a lot of these wheels being chromed, so the plating companies don't have a big inventory. My wheels came in and it took me a couple of weeks to get over there to put them on. The plating company was bugging my dealer for my cores so they could chrome them and sell to the next guy. If you're interested, I'll hook you up.
FYI, if I had it to do again, I'd probably get a set of H2 chromed wheels. They go on ebay for about the same as I paid with chrome caps (I guess they need to be altered though). You can get at least that much for your stock alloys and you can end up with the rims for free. I do prefer the Dodge wheel because: (1) I actually like the looks better, (2) I didn't want to hassle boring the holes and didn't know what effect, if any, it would have on the wheel's load rating (which is questionable even without the boring) and (3) I think the Dodge wheel will be much easier to keep clean (no thin crevices to accumulate brake dust).
Neil
nj murvin are your wheels the factory aluminum wheels. ? do you have any pics of them . ? if so how much was it to have them chromed? i bet they look good.
Price: $500 exchange (included mount/balance from my dealer)
They look great! Pics to come soon.
Two complications (more like inconveniences). They don't come with the chrome center caps. So, you have to either find some (I swapped with another DTR member who wanted dull ones to go with his new H2 wheels) or buy them (dealer wants $58 each). The other inconvenience is dealing with the cores. There aren't a lot of these wheels being chromed, so the plating companies don't have a big inventory. My wheels came in and it took me a couple of weeks to get over there to put them on. The plating company was bugging my dealer for my cores so they could chrome them and sell to the next guy. If you're interested, I'll hook you up.
FYI, if I had it to do again, I'd probably get a set of H2 chromed wheels. They go on ebay for about the same as I paid with chrome caps (I guess they need to be altered though). You can get at least that much for your stock alloys and you can end up with the rims for free. I do prefer the Dodge wheel because: (1) I actually like the looks better, (2) I didn't want to hassle boring the holes and didn't know what effect, if any, it would have on the wheel's load rating (which is questionable even without the boring) and (3) I think the Dodge wheel will be much easier to keep clean (no thin crevices to accumulate brake dust).
Neil
The computer provides more fuel when the A/C clutch engages. Also, if the load from the AC clutch was enough to bring the engine speed down, the computers low speed governor (lsg) would add more fuel until you reached the correct idle speed (this is how we can have zero throttle launches). The idle instability is certainly not caused by the A/C clutch. Also, if you don't have the A/C on (cause you say it happens in cold weather) it shouldn't cycle.
I wouldn't really worry about it. If you are that worried, see if your dealer can look at cylinder balance diagnostics (also called fueling trim). However, you may end up spending more than it worth to have it fixed.
I wouldn't really worry about it. If you are that worried, see if your dealer can look at cylinder balance diagnostics (also called fueling trim). However, you may end up spending more than it worth to have it fixed.
Originally posted by Ed Mc
Only noticed it twice with my truck. Both times just after a cold start and at light throttle in the driveway. Happens so fast it is barely noticable.
Ed
Only noticed it twice with my truck. Both times just after a cold start and at light throttle in the driveway. Happens so fast it is barely noticable.
Ed
Interesting find over at dieselram.com
I wonder if this could be it . . .
Here's a link to the whole thread.
Neil
TSB #18-007-04 Engine stumble/misfire....Flash reprogramming of Cummins ECM...
Here's a link to the whole thread.
Neil
this happened to mine , at first it was hardley noticeable then it slowly got worse, to the point i took it to the dealer,first they tryed the reflash, no fix,then the injector pump , that fixed it. I thought it was a injector because it only felt like a miss on one cyl. that was @64000 now have 79000+ no problems.
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3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
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