fredzeppelin

2001 Ram 2500 shortbed 4x4 auto trans, all stock (bought used @ 14k miles)
Currently 60k miles. Fairly light duty, pulls large 2 horse gooseneck about 50 miles a week. Remaining mileage is empty.

Suffering intermittent power loss during accel, lo-speed cruise, highway cruise. With or without trailer.

Tach falls off to aprox 1200, no response whatsoever to accel pedal. Has some little bit of idle power to maneuver off road.

Neutral/Park engine will rev, any gear forward/reverse nothing. Sometimes O/D lockout will stop problem, not always. Usually recovers at some point.

Transmission shop said no problems, changed fuel filter.

Research led to CKP crank position sensor problems. Further research says CKP discontinued by this model year.

Don't have access to the codes.

I wasn't aware of the 'fly-by-wire' accelerator pedal, 'til this forum.
When problem occurs, basically acts as if accelerator pedal is not connected to anything.

I searched FAQs and etc. only came up with CKP.

Any ideas, before I throw myself on the mercy of the dealer? Extended Warranty expired 100 miles ago.

....brad (new member seeking wizardly assistance)

Truckman

Is it happening in the same throttle position (Percentage of throttle) but not all the time. ,,If you just let off throttle for 30 seconds Does the throttle start working again?? If SO..
I am Betting it's the Old APPS....

crobtex

Try this and see if it helps. It will probably reoccure, but it's a place to start.

Question:APPS Reset ProcedureAnswer:This procedure has shown to help 24 valve ISB engines. It is basically teaching the fly by wire accelerator on these trucks to reread the position of the pedal and it's limits. Most complaints this will help with is poor acceleration, improper shifting, bucking in 5 and 6 speeds. Has been known to increase fuel mileage in some instances.

1. Set parking brake
2. Disconnect negative battery cables on both batteries
3. Turn ignition key to run(to drain any remaining capacitors)
4. Let truck sit for 30 minutes( this is the recommended minimum)
5. Return ignition to OFF position
6. Reconnect both batteries and secure, not a timed event
7. Turn key to run position(not start) and depress accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor
8. Allow pedal to return to top position slowly
9. Turn ignition switch OFF
10.Release parking brake

P.J

Do the key trick to check for codes. Lots of people try to point at the APPS, it can turn out to be the VP-44.
I did the APPS reset procedure, ended up with a new Lift & Injection pump a week later (under warranty)

P.J

=Dead Pedal

crobtex

True, but I like to start with the simpler, less expensive things first.

P.J

Oh, no doubt the APPS reset is free! Just, I have seen it not work for a classic dead pedal 9 times out of 10.

fredzeppelin

Key Trick ?
VP-44 ?

I had found and printed out the APPS Reset procedure, for trial today. Thanks for the pointer.

PJ, just coincidentally, I'm in Port Deposit, MD also. Anybody you trust locally?


Thanks a million folks ...brad

P.J

VP-44 is the high pressure injection pump that supplies the fule to your injectors. When it starts to die you can get the same symptoms that you are now experiencing. Oddly, your situation was exactaly what brought me here a few years ago. Driving down the road minding my own business, next thing you know I was idling down Rte. 213, didn't matter how much I pressed on the go pedal.
Uh, I've only had my truck serviced at a place I wouldn't recommend to my worst enemy (Newark Dodge). After two experiences there I have been doing all my own stuff.

There are so many people local here that I wouldn't be the least bit concerned about doing any repair work yourself. There are picture tutorials and hundreds of knowledgable people at your disposal.

I can help you out to a certian extent if you want. Where you at?

P.J

Oh,

Key Trick.

Turn your ingition on, then off, then on,off, on. (on, NOT start). The codes, if any will display in your odometer window followed by "P-Done".

fredzeppelin

Thanks PJ.

Gotta take the wife out for 30th anniversary dinner, probably won't get to key trick 'til Sunday. Battery disconnected now for APPS reset.

I'm on Rt 222 between 95 and Port itself, just down the hill from Mt Ararat Farm, if you know where I mean.

U ?


...brad

J BODY

Dead Pedal usually ends up finding a loss of money from your wallet and a new shiny injection pump under your hood.

P.J

I'm about 6.5 miles from you. Up off of Theodore, right near where the bridge is out for replacement now.

fredzeppelin

PJ / Group

Yeah, I'm through there several times a week towing my kids and horses to riding lessons up on Bailiff Road. (Was thru there, now detouring around on Red Toad or I95)
One or two more bridges closed, and you guys'll be stranded forever LOL.

Back to my truck. I did the APPS reset. Haven't driven enough yet for a good test.

However:

The transmission shop I was referred to by my extended warranty company jotted down the following codes, and I just reconfirmed them with the 'key trick'

P PCU
P 1693 ( Malfunction in Module? [handwritten note hard to read])
P ECU
P 0216 (Inj pump timing failure [same, hard to read])
P done

Well, that doesn't look good. I'm assuming that these are not a side effect of the APPS possible miscalibration. At this point, I guess we're replacing the
injector pump? Expensive? Difficult? If it's the gizmo with all the high pressure tubing on the driver's side of the head/valve covers, looks like a lot of wrench work.

Any further info (or FAQ pointers) you can provide would be appreciated.


thanks .....brad

crobtex

Sorry Pard,

The P0216 is usually the death cpde for the VP$$. As far a repair, some on here do their own while others have it done. I wouldn't tackle mine. As far as costs....it varies. Best to shop some of the area shops and get estimates.