How many quarts oil change 2007 5.9
01-28-2009, 07:33 PM
#32
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Correct, I have always added 1 to the filter, 11 to the crank and it is DEAD ON the full mark on the dip stick. Having said that, my truck is EXTREMELY finiky on the readings based on where you park. The slightest movement either way and it will easily vary a half-1 quart or so!!!
Last night I checked mine after work, I let it sit one hour. It was about a half a quart-1 quart low. I drove it to town, did some shopping, came back and parked it in the exact same spot. Checked after 1 hour and it was dead on Full mark!
Last night I checked mine after work, I let it sit one hour. It was about a half a quart-1 quart low. I drove it to town, did some shopping, came back and parked it in the exact same spot. Checked after 1 hour and it was dead on Full mark!
01-28-2009, 08:11 PM
#33
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That's what I do and the dipstick is coated to the top of the plastic piece,way over full!
01-28-2009, 09:00 PM
#34
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Um,, let me get this straight, the owners manual says 12 qts, but we should bag that idea and put 13 qts in per what the dipstick tells us is full
01-28-2009, 09:17 PM
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I know what you're saying but it's hard to ignore what the dipstick is telling you.
01-28-2009, 09:47 PM
#36
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I would go with the owners manual. When the engine is produced it is to pretty exact dimensions, in turn it takes a certain amount of oil. The dipstick could and does vary some based on my experiance with my own truck. with 12 qts it shows a 1/4 inch over the full mark on the dipstick everytime. Others on this forum have had the same issue with dipsticks being "off" I think that its more prudent and safe to go with 12 qts no matter what the dipstick indicates.
We shouldnt let the dipstick scare us..
01-28-2009, 09:59 PM
#37
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At the risk of sounding patronizing: Get 3 unopened gallons of oil ready. After completely draining all the hot oil out (I think it flys out a little quicker if you remove the oil cap while draining) and removing the old filter. Put the drain plug back in (I didn't want to leave that part out-it's important). Fill the new filter with oil (like 07Blue said) letting the media absorb ALL the oil. When it's completely absorbed and the filter is FULL, take some of the clean oil from the filter on your finger and rub it around the filter gasket, clean the base that the filter screws to and install the filter (3/4 turn after gasket contacts base-I put a mark on it).
You should have around 11 gallons of oil left now, put it all in the engine. Give it TIME to run down, it is a big block, you can tell by the sound/volume of the oil hitting the inside of the oil pan when you 1st pour it in.
Start the engine & let it idle for awhile. Shut it off & give it time to run back down again and check it by putting a freshly wiped dip stick all the way into the tube seated, retract and it should be just a hair below the full line. Mine always is. You MUST be on level ground to get an accurate dipstick reading, if you're not don't sweat it. If you've put a total of 12 quarts in your good-that's what it takes.
If your oil level keeps going up and your checking it right you may have fuel or anti-freeze going in it, this would not be good. If it's going down you may be losing it through blow by or leakage, make sure none is in your anti-freeze. Do make sure you're checking it right. Know the difference between the actual oil level on the stick and oil that was still inside the tube (and got all over the stick) when you put the stick back in to check it. You are removing it-wiping it, then putting it back in right? I apologize if this did sound patronizing but it really seems like some of you may not be clear on this. It just appeared like somebody needed to go through the whole thing step by step.
MW
01-28-2009, 10:23 PM
#38
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Like the manual says, the engine only requires/needs 3 gallons (12 quarts) of oil.
At the risk of sounding patronizing: Get 3 unopened gallons of oil ready. After completely draining all the hot oil out (I think it flys out a little quicker if you remove the oil cap while draining) and removing the old filter. Put the drain plug back in (I didn't want to leave that part out-it's important). Fill the new filter with oil (like 07Blue said) letting the media absorb ALL the oil. When it's completely absorbed and the filter is FULL, take some of the clean oil from the filter on your finger and rub it around the filter gasket, clean the base that the filter screws to and install the filter (3/4 turn after gasket contacts base-I put a mark on it).
You should have around 11 gallons of oil left now, put it all in the engine. Give it TIME to run down, it is a big block, you can tell by the sound/volume of the oil hitting the inside of the oil pan when you 1st pour it in.
Start the engine & let it idle for awhile. Shut it off & give it time to run back down again and check it by putting a freshly wiped dip stick all the way into the tube seated, retract and it should be just a hair below the full line. Mine always is. You MUST be on level ground to get an accurate dipstick reading, if you're not don't sweat it. If you've put a total of 12 quarts in your good-that's what it takes.
If your oil level keeps going up and your checking it right you may have fuel or anti-freeze going in it, this would not be good. If it's going down you may be losing it through blow by or leakage, make sure none is in your anti-freeze. Do make sure you're checking it right. Know the difference between the actual oil level on the stick and oil that was still inside the tube (and got all over the stick) when you put the stick back in to check it. You are removing it-wiping it, then putting it back in right? I apologize if this did sound patronizing but it really seems like some of you may not be clear on this. It just appeared like somebody needed to go through the whole thing step by step.
MW
At the risk of sounding patronizing: Get 3 unopened gallons of oil ready. After completely draining all the hot oil out (I think it flys out a little quicker if you remove the oil cap while draining) and removing the old filter. Put the drain plug back in (I didn't want to leave that part out-it's important). Fill the new filter with oil (like 07Blue said) letting the media absorb ALL the oil. When it's completely absorbed and the filter is FULL, take some of the clean oil from the filter on your finger and rub it around the filter gasket, clean the base that the filter screws to and install the filter (3/4 turn after gasket contacts base-I put a mark on it).
You should have around 11 gallons of oil left now, put it all in the engine. Give it TIME to run down, it is a big block, you can tell by the sound/volume of the oil hitting the inside of the oil pan when you 1st pour it in.
Start the engine & let it idle for awhile. Shut it off & give it time to run back down again and check it by putting a freshly wiped dip stick all the way into the tube seated, retract and it should be just a hair below the full line. Mine always is. You MUST be on level ground to get an accurate dipstick reading, if you're not don't sweat it. If you've put a total of 12 quarts in your good-that's what it takes.
If your oil level keeps going up and your checking it right you may have fuel or anti-freeze going in it, this would not be good. If it's going down you may be losing it through blow by or leakage, make sure none is in your anti-freeze. Do make sure you're checking it right. Know the difference between the actual oil level on the stick and oil that was still inside the tube (and got all over the stick) when you put the stick back in to check it. You are removing it-wiping it, then putting it back in right? I apologize if this did sound patronizing but it really seems like some of you may not be clear on this. It just appeared like somebody needed to go through the whole thing step by step.
MW
I know it was only a typo but after you put so much effort in your post it did make me chuckle a bit.
01-29-2009, 11:39 AM
#40
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The slightest incline on a driveway will throw off the reading quite a bit.
Plus, some of the 3rd gens like to make oil when they're bored, so beware of that phenomenon. (can of worms now completely opened)
garrett
Plus, some of the 3rd gens like to make oil when they're bored, so beware of that phenomenon. (can of worms now completely opened)
garrett
01-29-2009, 12:19 PM
#41
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The only oil pans I'm aware ever being put on these trucks are the 12 quart ones. I know there are 15 quart ones available for other non-truck Cummins applications but I think our trucks only got 12 quart pans. With some gas engines there can be more than one choice for dipsticks, small block Chevy for example has 2 lengths.
If you're getting actual erroneous readings I would (like I said) make sure all the oil is out of the engine and put the 12 quarts (11+1) back in the engine and get on LEVEL ground. You can scribe a new mark on your stick if you've verified that your tube is seated all the way into the block and you are putting the stick in the tube all the way. I certainly hope you don't have a quart of sludge (if that's possible) in your oil pan...
Your truck has a 12 quart oil pan. Overfilling hurts gas mileage and can be hard on seals. Underfilling could cause the pump to suck air- REAL BAD for your bearings, cam etc.
MW
03-01-2019, 06:37 PM
#42
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5.9L Cummins
I just bought a used 07 Quad Cab 2500 6-spd and changed the oil. I took it to Kwik Kar and they said it took 13 quarts. I checked my manual which stated 12 quarts. He filled it with 12 and showed me that the oil level was not in the safe zone on the dip stick. I said ok and said add a 1/2 quart. Do you all have any advice on this?
Thanks
Thanks
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