hoot

I looked at the fitting, disconnected it but I'm dumbfounded as to how to get rid of it. The quick disconnect is inaccessible except for maybe some special tool. The check valve body is in the way of getting a tool into the fitting to release it. Looks like the only clean way to remove it is to cut it off. Then you can get the release tool in there. Next I need a fitting that is quick disconnect on one side and the AN-1/2 male to go into the line going back to the trans. Is this doable? Can I get a quick release tube end?

JDiepstra

I can't answer your question but would like to know the advantage of doing so and if it will help me as well. I'll be watching!

dozer12216

The check ball is for anti drainback function. Keeps converter from draining when setting overnite. Know of no positive for removing. You cannot flush cooler line backwards or you will fail cooler function.

hoot

Most upgraded transmissions are upgraded to keep the converter full at all times plus they have better flow. Also the torque converters tend to run a little hotter. By removing the check valve you reduce restriction, eliminate the chance of a malfunctioning valve that can destroy your trans and the result is better cooling.

Hounddog

I know on my 1500 in my sig.that I installed a aftermarket trans cooler years ago and when I cut the line to hook to the new cooler the check ball went with it.When my 1500 sits overnight I start it in neutral or trans is dead for a few seconds.Didn't do it on purpose that's just the way the install went.

zuki_dan

I know a tranny installer that that removes the check ball when he does his transmissions and he used a drill bit to drill out the plastic ball until it was small enough to fall out of the line and then he flushes the lines real good.

hoot

I did mine this morning and took pics. I'll post them later. Dropped my trans temp by 15 degrees and stopped the temps from spiking. This is only for worked transmissions as far as I can tell. The stock trans may need the valve intact.

There also is a flow restrictor in there. That came out too. I am willing to bet the flow restrictor is there to slow the fluid down some going through the trans cooler so more heat can be pulled off on the way through. Removing it could be a bad thing.

BUT>>>>>>

I took it for a test drive. Temps dropped 15 degrees and didn't spike.

I installed a fan powered aux trans cooler yesterday. That helped some but not entirely. Some have said an aux cooler adds restriction. This one has full 1/2 bore fittings, large hose and volumous flat plate design so I do not believe it adds much restriction at all.

It held the heat back better than without it but I still got the heat spike, it just took longer to get there and went away sooner.

This morning I did the check valve (drainback valve) and took it for the same ride that I know make the trans hot and causes it to shift goofy.

Looks like it's holding cool now. I can't say for sure cause it's only one day. I'll see haow it goes but I'm definitely getting to the point where heat is not going to be an issue.

I'm thinking from an engineering point of view that the flow restriction in the front cooler cause by the valve may be holding fluid in the converter too long which cause it to soak up too much heat before leaving the trans. By providing more flow, the heat is being drawn out of the trans at a lower temp an is able to be cooled easier.

Also by removing restriction up front at the stock cooler it should negate any restrictions added by the rear aux cooler.

hoot

I put together a little article with pictures here